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Posts posted by RW09903
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You can try placing a small amount of epoxy over the area you want cleared out little at a time?
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6 hours ago, davidm said:
I forgot to mention another change from 20 yrs ago -corals were given names like "green slimer" - because it was green, and, well, slimy when fragged. We ddin't have the creativity (or marketing) to name corals like "thano's ring around asgard". I hope I'm not stepping on a real name.
Close, I think it's called thanos gauntlet finger snaps zoas. They go for $3456 per polyp. Someone said it'll wipe out half you system if pissed. ?
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22 minutes ago, smokythemattman@gmail.com said:
@RW09903 I would've thought that a bad infection would have occurred in more things as well. But seeing as though this weird fuzz only really appeared whenever I noticed a coral waa damaged it seems to hold in line with that there are strains of vibrio in all of systems and once a coral is weakened certain strains go nuclear and contribute to the death. Fwiw, I ordered some amoxicillin after reading a pretty interesting tale of anecdotal evidence om reef2reef. After i fragged the corals away from whatever the fuzz was pretty much all the pieces except some birdnest were fight. I deliberately left the fuzz on 2 pieces of the green slimer and 2 pieces of birdnest. I treated 1 of each in a little bucket mix with the antiobiotic following the post and its been 3 days and the fuzz/bacteria eating them has been reduced almost entirely. Hardly any new RTN/flesh loss if any. The other 2 pieces are rubble rock now. Very limited test obviously but its seeming like it lines up with other reefers findings on this
There are a few threads on R2R where people use witch hazel to dip corals and or dose their systems to stop the progression of STN/ RTN. Found it interesting since witch hazel has antiseptic properties. It might be worth a look. I think there might be a few tests similar to ICP testing to test the biological make up of your water as well. Not sure how commercially available they are but it'll tell you the bacteria strains in your tank.
I speculated vibrio in my system a couple years back when I had extreme STN. Started with acros and acans and progressed to a few montis and chalices. It turned out I had faulty calibration solution and my salinity was at 1.035 (my fault since I didn't replace for 4-5 years). The die off lead to a big spike in nutrition which contributed to the issues. Once I corrected the salinity die off stopped and tank has been doing well since. PO4 and NO3 are still high but corals look great so I'm just keeping up with maintenance.
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If it's a bacterial issue, would the other organisms in the system be affected as well?
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With LPS and SPS, you'll come to a point when dosing elements is essential. Do you have an idea which method you want to use? with my 180g, I find that 2 part works but consumption rates have gone up substantially as the tank filled in and matured. With that said, some monti's will take up a lot of space. If you place them too high, you run the risk of shading out corals mounted below. encrusting monti's might be a good option to mitigate that issue. I've always been a fan of acans and chalices in the lower to mid range of tank. for the top half, I would consider birdsnest, stylos, digitatas, and starter acros.
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I need glasses. I originally read this post as grass cutting tips
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CNN? Fake news! All joking aside, I believe this will be great news!
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Dang Ben, You have some of the nicest colors!
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What bulbs are you currently using on the fixture? Depending on the combination, you have different color temperatures which will make your corals look different. The link below is a general guideline for 4 bulb combinations.
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I've personally seen goldflake angels in a sps dominated system. All inheritance were feed frozen food and nori daily.
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2 hours ago, ReefdUp said:
Hey! Thanks for the condolences. That was about 8 years ago, so I'll have to dig through my notes if I can find them.
I remember that it had ich and the HLLE when I received it. I started it in hyposalinity, and then I think I remember it also getting velvet. That part is a bit fuzzy, but I remember some freshwater dips. At the time I was a fan of copper and formalin, so I might've used those.
After treating for everything, I didn't do anything specific for the HLLE. I kept fresh or sheet algae available 24/7, and I fed my homemade food (variation of the BLU coral method from back in the day). I had a healthy tank, and it recovered on its own.
I don't remember the history of the tank it came out of... so I can't remember what might've been associated with the HLLE.
Sorry that doesn't help much. When I get some time I'll try to dig up more info from my notes.
Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
Thank you, looking forward to hearing more about coral and fish restoration efforts.
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RIP to the purple tang. Just out of curiosity, what did you do to help reverse the HLLE?
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18 hours ago, treesprite said:
Great looking tank! Did you get it some expensive chocolates and roses?
I gave it a nice back rub (algae scraping) and and massage (water change)
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23 hours ago, YHSublime said:
Tanks looking awesome!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks!
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Hey Chuck, thank you! I have been folowing your tank build. Your system looks great too.
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The two I am most interested in currently is Melafix and Dettol.
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10 minutes ago, YHSublime said:
New salt water
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHaah. I read it as natural sea water.
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Other than the commercially available products such as Revive, Coral RX, etc... what have you tried for dipping corals (softies, LPS, and SPS)? From Bayer (which I use) to H2O2, or Dettol to Melafix, it seems like people are willing to try anything these days. Sucess stories and failures are all welcome.
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I ordered my ballasts via ERC. On a pinch, I can check to see if I still have a spare you can use (80w). Unfortunately, I'm in Crofton, Md though.
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Do you have the regular type, or dimmable? My ATI fixture had the same issue a few years ago. I had to take off the case and change the ballast. No issues since. Wiring it was pretty easy as long as you orient the new ballast the same way and replace one wire at a time.
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It looks great. Planning on fragging soon?
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Teal no name acro it is.
Stand Wider than Aquarium
in General Discussion
I have a wood stand with the dimensions of 72L x 36w x36h. It was built with the intentions of using it for a 300 gallon aquarium. Let's just say the tank move didn't go as planned and I'm looking into comprable options. The aquarium I am looking at is 30" wide. Will the 6" difference be okay, relatively speaking?