Curtis Scott

I usually run a low nutrient reef tank, but I've been battling green slim algae (cyanobacteria) for over 4 weeks now and I've tried everything I could think of that has worked for me in the past. Then I noticed it, when the wet side of one of my scrappers became detached... both of my nano mag scrapped contained completely broken up magnets and were rusting into my tank. These were the nano scrappers I had (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=20034) Once removed them both, I started to run some extra carbon and a poly filter. Since then the green algae has really started to subside. I remember reading something about magnet cleaners rusting into reef tanks a long time ago when I first started out in the hobby... I have also read that increased iron levels can lead to green algae blooms. My theory is the metals (iron) in the rusty magnets were contributing to the cyanobacteria. I've had red cyanobacteria due to poor nutrient export, but haven't ever had the green colored algae. My iron test gets here today/tomorrow and I hoping by then my iron levels will have improved. Does anyone else have any experience with this or rust in a reef tank in general? Anything else I can do or look into to help my tank recover?

I currently have a bare bottom 75g mixed reef tank with a purple tang and a melanurus wrasse. I would like to add a few more fish to the tank and I'm looking for recommendations. I'm leaning toward dart fish, cardinal fish, or chromis. What else should I consider?

I purchased this to help battle some small patches of cyano(green type), help with my water clarity, and improve my nutrient export via skimming. Bottle recommends dosing 1ml per 25g daily. This seems a little much to me. Anyone with experience using the product, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the recommended dose. How do you dose and how often? What are the pros and cons you've seen while using it?

I couldn't dip today, instead I'm making water for a water change and will dip in a couple days using the throw away tank water. I have a few large colonies and will probably need to make up 2-3 gallons of water with bayer for dipping. Yeah, hopefully the spread is limited. Especially if everyone who buys acros is doing the right thing and dipping, inspecting, and quarantining them. Oddly enough, I don't fault the seller. It's my fault for not taking proper steps. Never again though. I'll dip quarantine and inspect every coral from now on. Bonsai is getting it pretty bad.

Thanks for all the feedback and words of encouragement everyone. I plan to pull all the acros out and dip them today then place them in my QT. I'll follow up with 8+ weeks of dips and inspections every 7 days.

It's been a while since I've posted. A few months back I purchased some sps frags from a very reputable seller in the NOVA area (not naming names here, please don't ask me). He assured me there were no pest. He also told me it would be risky to dip these frags because they are smooth skins. (Oregon Blue Tort, Red Dragon, and Banana Lokani type) His tank was immaculate, and against my gut instinct I placed them directly in my display tank. Immediately I noticed red bugs on all these frags. I have plenty of interceptor so I treated for red bugs, thinking no biggie. A few months went by, life was very hectic and my tank was neglected for a bit. When things started to go bad, they went bad fast. I had an Alk swing and some of my SPS start to RTN on me. Once I got that under control, I noticed a couple of my acro colonies with dead/white spots on the bottom of them, toward the bases. I did some research. I was so devastated once my internet searches confirmed what I feared what was cause. I messed up big time. I got into SPS and didn't set up a proper QT process. Now I have AEFWs. For weeks, this experience had destroyed my excitement for this hobby. A lot of swearing and talking about maybe just getting out for a while and starting new in a couple years. My brother, who got me into the hobby, came up to visit last weekend and we talked about my options. I really love this hobby, so I've decided to push forward. Last weekend, I purchased a melanarous(sp) wrasse for my DT. Wednesday I purchased Bayer and set up my old JBJ 28 with water change water from my DT for my QT. I plan to frag/cut off bases/dip and QT what is remaining of my acros/SPS. I have a few questions for those who have done battle with AEFW using Bayer dips and QT. Would it be safest to remove all my SPS from my tank, dip and QT? Or are the AEFW only going to go after acros? If I remove all the SPS(or just acros) from my DT and into the QT, will the AEFW die from starvation? If so, when would it be the safest to add SPS(or just acros) back to the tank? I've read 2months, I've read 6months. Planning to start dipping process tomorrow, can you point to a trusted source/online guide for using Bayer dips on AEFW? I've seen many variations online.

Sorry for the delayed response. Upon further inspection it is not making any sound at all. I plan to take it apart tonight; hoping it just needs a good cleaning.

I was able to use another browser and a cc instead of paypal to complete the purchase.

This is happening to me right now. "There was a problem with the request We're sorry, there was an error processing your request: No bean specified" I even tried logging out of both avast and paypal and starting over, no dice. I'll give another shot in about 15min.

I do hear the humming sound, I'll give this a shot. Thanks!

Yes and yes. Purchased in Aug and installed in Sept 2012.

I just noticed this morning the main pump on my CS1 is not working. I have it soaking in a bucket with warm tap water and vinegar for now in hopes of cleaning it up and getting it working again. My concern is it won't even turn on and I've never cleaned in the past 1+ year. (I know big mistake) This is the CS1 with recirculating pump, is it safe to take apart? Are there any resources you can point me to?

+1 I'd love to know the same thing.

Great points! I like your idea of staying with a single MagDrive 7. I think I'll be going with this route. I know flexible can be done right and work great. Mine was not however. It was done fast and corners were cut, but it worked so I've left it like this for about 4 years+. Recently I've been having issues with my pump not cutting back on after being off (feeding). The pump probably just needs to be cleaned, so I pulled it and placed a cleaned used one on. While inspecting it, I noticed the tubing has cyano and other stuff growing in it so I figured I'd take another look at how it's set up and just take the time to do it right.

I currently have a 75g set up with a 30g sump with 2 x MP40s running on it. It has plenty of flow inside the tank and currently enough from the sump just using a single MagDrive 7 pump. However the plumbing was done using flexible tubing and not hard plumbed. With help from my brother, I plan to re-plumb it properly. He suggest I use 2 x MagDrive 5 pumps instead of a single one MagDrive 7. Mainly for backup purposes. I'm trying to make a decision ASAP. What do you guys think would be best?

I think they have to be introduced. I read the same thing about caroline algae some time back.

I have not had any problems with this. I have a shot glass full of rinsed and diced reef food (jans) and sometimes I forget to place right back in the freezer. However if it has been over a few hours I'd give it the smell test just to be sure. If it smells rancid, I'd toss it.

I test with a Salifert test kit and dose potassium weekly. About 6 months ago I noticed the color of my corals looked faded and someone suggested I test my potassium. For some reason my tank uses a lot of it. My first test showed 200ppm. From what I've read macro algae can use it as well as corals. When I first started dosing I noticed it really helped bring the colors out on my SPS. When it's in the 400ppm-450ppm range the colors really pop. I started with using brightwell, then tried K balance zeovit, unfortunately it barely maintained the level of potassium. Now I stick with brightwell.

Please disregard my question, I found some at Quantum Reefs!

Sad to see they aren't still running this deal, I'd give them a shot. Anyone know where to purchase pods (preferably algagen tisbe pods) locally?

Ah, gotcha. thanks

I'll have to take you up on stopping by and checking out your setup sometime. You mentioned the fans help maximize evaporation, are these necessary to help evaporate the CO2 out of the tank if dosing kalk?

I didn't even think about this. I was able to find this online which leads me to believe it's not possible. http://www.pharmaceutical-int.com/article/medical-grade-soda-lime.html If you or anyone else has a resource that explains the process, I'd love to read up on it. Thanks Bruce. I am trying coming up with a plan based off what you mentioned and will run it by my wife for approval. I think fresh air in combination with adding kalk to my top off might be my solution. Kalk was something I haven't done much research on. After talking to a couple people and doing some research last night, I really think this is the missing key here. Thanks Tom. Just a walkout basement, standard door. Yes, I'm running LEDs. Interesting idea. Wish I had room in my sump to do it though. That's a great setup. Thanks Warren. Thanks for mentioning Med Vet, they do carry it cheaper there - http://www.shopmedvet.com/product/soda-lime-5-gallon-JOR553B

I'm thinking my options are: Reverse light on refugium Set up some alarms in my Apex to alert me when my ph goes below a certain level Purchase soda lime in bulk (http://www.diverssupplyinc.net/browse.cfm/4,1467.html)

Run them for 24hrs Good points I have read up on the tubing to outside, but unfortunately this isn't an option... unless I can convince my wife Maybe testing a reverse light cycle on the refugium is in order. Ah, that's not good to hear. Wondering if there are any other options beside running the CO2 scrubber media or placing the air line outside.