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zygote2k

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Posts posted by zygote2k

  1. I've been told that they're actually doing much better in captivity now.

    That's misinformation. There have been very few examples of this coral surviving in captivity.

  2. Why are people still buying Goniopora corals? Maybe 1% of them survive in captivity. I've seen 2 local vendors selling them but no one ever talks about their mortality rates in captivity. These corals are best left in the ocean...

  3. My 12gal Aquapod has been running 79-82 deg. A little hot for such a small tank. I took the locline splitter off the return and the current has nearly doubled! I also removed the Rio 90 and the temp is now 76-77 degrees.

  4. I have a 40 breeder that is only filtered with a seperate refugium and a DSB in the sump. I use a 400w 14k with 64w pc mixed colors for light. I have an eductor on the return and 2 Koralia nanos for circulation. I use R/O water for weekly 10% water changes and use Purple-up as the only additve. I have heavy soft coral growth, some coralline algae growth and slow growing sps. The tank has been set up for 4 1/2 months.

    My current water chemistry is:

     

    Temp: 77 deg

    ph: 8.2ish

    Alk: 2.85 meq/l

    Ca: 330 ppm

    NO3: less than 2 ppm.

     

    How can I safely raise the Ca and Alk without using a reactor or CO2?

  5. Just noticed that the Mandarin has what appears to be a fish louse on his right pectoral fin. It's about 1/8" long and looks like a very compressed coepepod. Anyone know anything about these?

  6. I'm going to put a 250w 20k next to a 400w 14k. What will they look like side by side?

    Will one drastically wash out the other? Will it look ok? Anyone have this combination or maybe had both?

  7.  

     

    I'll also say that you will have a considerable difference in heat transfer between the 150 and 400 bulbs. Using 400watt bulbs on a 90gal tank, I don't see how you'll be able to do that without the help of a chiller. I've seen plenty of people run 400watters without having to use a chiller, but those people have had much larger tanks (300+ gallon systems) which allows for a larger distribution of heat. I would try 250watt bulbs first, a 90gal tank isn't tall enough to require 400watt bulbs.

    There is some used lighting in the "for sale" section right now. I'd look in that.

     

    I use a 400w 14k on the 40 breeder. It makes everything radiant. My tank runs 76-78 on any given day. If you are willing to suspend the halide without a canopy or hood, you will probably be able to get away with 2)

    400's on the 90.

  8. I bought a Red Sea Master test kit and am wondering if it is very accurate. I would like to know if anyone has experience with these kits/tests and what other types of test kits are accurate. I used to use LaMotte back in the day, and I thought they were fairly accurate...

  9. "The Southdown sand, however, does contain a fair amount of fine particles, and if one simply ignores the larger particles and uses enough sand, the water can be saturated with calcium carbonate almost as fast as when using AragaMIGHT."

     

    Direct quote from the aforementioned article. Sounds like what I initially presumed was in fact true.

    I only use Aragamax and have just added 30# right into the sump of my existing reef. I experienced no adverse affects other than cloudy water for a day and a half. If anything, the corals reacted positively to the addition.

  10. I used "Hilti" brand foam when I used to build large ponds and needed to glue a rock to the wall. It is in my opinion the best expandable foam on the market but also the most expensive. For large projects, Hilti makes a glue gun that takes glue cartridges. There have been many a backyard pond in the greater metro area that have vertical rocks in waterfalls held in place using this foam.

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