Jenny

Very cool! Can't wait to meet you guys! Just out of curiosity why do you post in the Colo forum of RC?

We stopped by Sunday afternoon on our way back from Va Beach. I was lovin those sebaes. Nice to see ones that aren't all bleached out. I really wanted one but they were too huge for our community tank. I'm wondering if I can put anemones in our fowlr - it was seriously one of the nicest sebaes I've ever seen.

I just wanted to say we were down in Richmond this weekend and visited Atlantis. The store was beautiful. They had lots of great equipment, fish, and corals that are hard to find. Thanks guys! Our purchases are doing great! Everybody was happy and hungry this morning.

Its looking great! Congrats to you and Brandi by the way - I just noticed the change in signature - sorry if I'm completely unobservant.

Thanks!

So what's the big difference that makes for a $300+ price hike? From the website http://www.neptunesys.com/ it appears that the aqua III pro has a conductivity monitor/control and dissolved oxygen monitor/control. That's the only difference I see in specs. It appears both can use the expanded hardware px 1000 to allow one controller to run all the tanks in the house. It also appears both can use the DC8 w/ socket expansion. What am I missing? Thanks! Jenny

I agree. Unfortunately they collect what the consumer is willing to purchase. And at someone else's risk it is more profitable for them to just collect rather than breed. I think once hobbyists are breeding more types of fish the awareness will be more of an everyday topic. I guess how I imagine it was when corals first started being propogated in the home aquarium.

How come anglers are just the most interesting fish? Love em.

We have a 65 with several types of macro as nutrient export. No filters, skimmers. I am wanting to be seahorses in it eventually. But you have to go extra super duper slow b/c the skimmer is your backup. Without it any rushing and you could crash it. Per Anthony Calfo 6500K is the best spectrum for macro to grow. He recommends MH but for the seahorses the heat is a major issue. But if you are doing other small fishes you could probably do it. Most pipefishes are wild caught and are very difficult to train onto frozen. So you are constantly supplying live food. As traveller7 said unless you want dwarfs seahorses need more height. But if you want dwarfs you again are dealing with a must have constant supply of live food issue. Good luck!

Interesting. Makes me feel bad that I'm always looking for the cheapest price. A lot of people are working to get these animals to me and I need to be more aware of that and stop complaining about a $20 price tag on a fish. We are privileged to be able to have these tanks. I knew how expensive they were when we started this hobby. How can I be so elitest to think I should be able to obtain these animals at bargain basemenet prices when people lose their lives to try and support their community.

Riley, Our 65 is filterless, skimmerless. We use red and green gracilaris, dragon's tongue, mangroves, and some maiden's hair for nutrient export. We also have about 150lbs of live rock and about 120lbs of live sand. This is not a new idea, Eric Borneman has been advocating this for quite a while. You should read some of his articles and/or books. They really give you a lot of ideas of how many gazillion ways there are to set up a tank. It seems that people get into believing there is only one 'correct' way. Experiment, do what you think might work, that's really what this hobby is all about. Pushing the limits and learning. We also run European style on our 135 gallon reef. We have a three chamber sump with the first being a skimmer, the second a fuge, the third a return pump. It has chaeto and caulerpa for nutrient export. Our reef has a 6 inch sand bed and about 300lbs of rock. We also keep our temperature between 82 and 84 which most people are in full panic if theirs gets that warm. If you ever want to see them you are more than welcome. We also have a 55gallon spiny blue lobster species tank.

Thanks to everyone who worked so hard to put this event on for the rest of us! It was great to actually meet so many face to face w/ real names even. Thank you! Jenny

That's awesome! Glad to hear your girl made it.

Jody, If you want it to survive you'll have to start spot feeding. Try using oyster eggs, cylopeze, rots - anything smaller than your normal frozen/flake food. I would start spot feeding it everyday - make sure you turn off the powerheads. Once the cyano goes away you can wean it off and maybe only feed it twice a week. Let us know how it goes.

Jody, Your parameters are right on. And since you are only getting cyano on the gorgonian that fits. You definately have a nonphotosynthetic gorgonian though. And it sounds like its getting way too much light. Put it in a shady spot with the same amount of flow first and see how it does. Don't want to change more than one variable at a time. What are you feeding? How often? Tank feedings or are you spot feeding? How long have you had it? Have you ever moved it? When did the cyano first appear? Any changes to the tank around that time? Maybe Bemmer can chime in here. She has one of these. Tim, You crack me up.

That is so great! I am truly jealous.

Yep. Just use a sharp blade and you can cut it into quarters (or more I've heard). You can use any netting type material to hold it onto a rock or rubble until it adheres on its own (I like the wedding type stuff they sell at Michaels).

Jody, Are you getting good polyp extension on this gorgonian? Do you get polyp extension at night, during the day, both, sometimes? What kind of lighting is it under? Since it is likely nonphotosynthetic it may be getting too much light. It may also be getting too much flow. Something could be causing tissue degradation which may be why the cyano is only on this coral.

I was gonna make one for the seahorse tank so I could spot feed gorgonians. Just wanted to make sure everything was still going good. My last few diy projects have been a lot of tweeking this and that. Thanks!

Have you had any troubles with your timer?

Beautiful!

I'm not sure where you heard stingrays weren't supposed to kill people but.... This warning should go for all corals. Precautions should be taken to protect yourself. And always always kid proof/animal proof what you are up to.

That is a lot of tangs for a 90gallon. But if you insist on keeping them then jason has the right idea. Rearrange all the rock (major changes are necessary) then put the yellow back in in the middle of the night. Your best chance is to wake the yellow up to move him so he'll be good and disoriented and hopefully not attack your other two. If this doesn't work you'll have to get rid of the yellow or the other two otherwise the yellow will continue to attack until he kills them.

Oh yeah! That would be great!

Man that sucks! I'm so sorry!