veneer work?

[Chad]

I am making a new stand for my tank and want to inset the door and side panels with a nice contrasted ebony wood or something like that.

 

 

The issue is that it's pretty expensive and mostly available in veneers (which also makes it more affordable); however, I suspect there could be durability issues associated with using a veneer vertically on a tank stand (although I'm NOT going to have any sump or water inside the stand).

 

Anyone with experience veneering that can help talk me through what to use - glue-wise, substrate-wise, etc.?

[John]

I use ' Titebond : Cold Press for Veneer ' Glue, it is formulated to minimize bleed-through and much easier to work with than contact cement.

 

Prep: Mist (DO NOT SOAK Veneer) with water and then press Veneer between two boards for 15 mins, this will flatten the Veneer.

 

Application: Spread glue out evenly with a brush over the entire base (plywood), place veneer onto glue, cover entire piece with wax paper, then use a veneer roller to ensure good contact and even application...clamp as much of the piece as you can...I would recommend using a similiar-sized scrap board over the entire piece during clamp up. Let dry overnight.

 

Wax paper is very important!

 

Depending on the thickness of veneer, don't get crazy with an orbital sander once it's glued up, I would only hit it with 400 grit or higher...

Edited November 30, 2012 by John

[John]

I have some scrap veneer if you want to practice, but I'm out by BRK

[Chad]

Thanks, John.

 

Is that with paper backed veneer or wood on wood? (The internet is giving me this lingo, I don't have a real world understanding of what either of those means)

 

The surfaces I want to cover are ~17.5x32.75 and 24x22.

 

I have done some woodworking (although it's been 10+ years) but I'm a total newb when it comes to veneering anything.

[John]

I use real wood veneer...I don't mess with paper backed veneer, that's too easy and doesn't look real to me...eye of the beholder maybe.

 

You'll want veneer sheets larger than your work surface and then trim the veneer once dried...depending on your overlap a sharp utility blade and sandpaper can get it flush with your wood base (plywood) or a nice router with flush trim bit works too...You can also cut your base larger than the final dimensions and run it through the table saw (with fine blade) to get your final dimensions...if using a power tool to trim the veneer I would run a piece of painters tape on the cut lines for piece of mind (grain tear out)...

 

Another tip, you could place the veneer in such a manner to bookmatch the grain, you won't have to purchase as large of sheets, but you still want the veneer to be larger than your base board.

 

If you decide to bookmatch, you'll want to flatten the veneer and then pair the pieces together using painter's tape...DO NOT USE masking tape...it will tear out the grain...If you see any voids in the veneer, place painter's tape over them too...this is all done to prevent glue bleed through.

 

I often work with burl veneers, so this is critical...I even tape the entire piece before glue up...example:

 

 

Edited November 30, 2012 by John

[Chad]

^wow that piece is beautiful!

[John]

Let me clarify forementioned statement, I use raw wood veneer...paperbacked wood veneer is often used in large surface applications...doors, tables, etc. and is made from real wood...the paperbacked material I was referring to is more similiar to a laminate or shelf paper that gives the illusion of wood...not what I use...it has it's applications, just not in my shop...

Edited November 30, 2012 by John

[Chad]

^lol, I agree

[ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B)]

If you are looking for a good source for veneer relatively close in the area check out Vienna Hardwoods. The carry a HUGE assortment of common and very exotic woods. They also have an even bigger assortment of other woods and veneers that they can generally get ordered in within a day or two time. I purchase most of my veneer and ply from them for Stand Builds as their common grades (Red Oak, Birch, Maple) that are available at Big Box Stores tend to be of better quality and grain and of course because they have a much larger variety of options available that you won't find at the Big Box Stores.

[kevreh]

Colonial Hardwoods in Springfield VA is another good place to go for veneer work.

 

Hey John! Just wondering, when I've done veneer work I used rubber cement (spread on both pieces). I suspect the glue you mentioned is better? Thanks, Kevin

[John]

I've used contact cement for veneering laminate, never with wood veneer...since wood veneer is so thin I wouldn't trust the contact cement to level out evenly and I would hate to see any bleed through...That's one advantage of the cold press glue, it dries a dark brown in case you have any voids/bleed through...

 

Try on a scrap piece and let me know.