Closed Loop System on a 5'x3'x3' Tank

[Omair]

My ideal Display Tank for my main floor common area is 5'x3'x3'. I have been exploring a closed loop system for flow in the DT instead of power heads. I have very little experience ith a closed loop system and would like to ask the community if you have used it on your tank and how did you implement it? What are advantages/disadvantages?

Edited February 6, 2012 by Omair

[F&Fmgr]

closed loops typically are built two ways; one witht he returns going through the bottom of the tank and another set up with the returns coming to the top of the tank with water oscillators on there for motion. I plumbed a tank recently with a water blaster 10000 behind an oceans motion 4 way. everything is under the tank. looks really nice, downside is that you have to use double union ball valves nearly at every connection to ensure that you can easily remove every component w/o leaking.

[davelin315]

I really like having the closed loops but they are not for all. The major benefit for me is that I don't have any powerheads in the water at all and I also don't have vortechs or the equivalent on the sides of the tank, either. They can be done very well and you use a single external pump. I had 2 closed loops but one of my pumps went down and I have yet to fix it. The one I have remaining is a barracuda going back through an Oceans Motions 8 way. I really like how it provides tons of movement in the tank. It doesn't have the capabilities of a programmable vortech or tunze, but I don't like having added things hooked up to the glass so this is better for me. You can see how I have mine plumbed in my tank thread. The other one that I have is also a barracuda driving 2 different returns in the tank.

[zygote2k]

If you like the possiblities of leaks, then use a closed loop. If you like simple and clean, use Vortechs.

I speak from experience.

[Omair]

If you like the possiblities of leaks, then use a closed loop. If you like simple and clean, use Vortechs.

I speak from experience.

 

 

Ugh. I definitely do not want to deal with leaks in that big of a tank. Once it's set, I wont be able to rework the bulkheads if they leak down the road. Good point.

[steveoutlaw]

Ugh. I definitely do not want to deal with leaks in that big of a tank. Once it's set, I wont be able to rework the bulkheads if they leak down the road. Good point.

 

There is always going to be the possibility of a leak, but tons of people have run closed loops for years and years and never had a problem. All you have to do is move slowly and you'll be fine. Talk to people like Dave Lin that have large tanks and have been through it before. You will like the closed loop better than powerheads. Just make sure that you design it well so you can close off any portion of it at any time for maintenance. And make sure you use cleaner and primer on the PVC before you glue it.

[Omair]

There is always going to be the possibility of a leak, but tons of people have run closed loops for years and years and never had a problem. All you have to do is move slowly and you'll be fine. Talk to people like Dave Lin that have large tanks and have been through it before. You will like the closed loop better than powerheads. Just make sure that you design it well so you can close off any portion of it at any time for maintenance. And make sure you use cleaner and primer on the PVC before you glue it.

 

I definitely need to speak with someone to see how they setup their tank before I explore this. I need to know how they drilled their tank for inlets and returns. Most examples I've seen online have the drain drilled on the bottom of the tank, center and torwards the back hidden behind rocks, topped with something to keep snails/hermits falling through, and the returns are either plumbed on the back or in one case, drilled on the bottom of the tank for a bare bottom. That was definitely an interesting build.

[Brian Ward]

I definitely need to speak with someone to see how they setup their tank before I explore this. I need to know how they drilled their tank for inlets and returns. Most examples I've seen online have the drain drilled on the bottom of the tank, center and torwards the back hidden behind rocks, topped with something to keep snails/hermits falling through, and the returns are either plumbed on the back or in one case, drilled on the bottom of the tank for a bare bottom. That was definitely an interesting build.

 

Remember that drilling the bottom is usually only possible if you go acrylic or have the tank custom-built. Most manufacturers temper the bottom glass and you can't drill tempered glass.

[Brian Ward]

Oh, as far as closed loops in general go, I love the clean look. I did have a small leak once, but I tightened up the bulkhead and it went away. Strategic use of unions is an absolute must for maintenance purposes.

[davelin315]

Omair, I'm in Herndon not far from you, feel free to try and set up a time to come by to take a look at what I've got. The only leaks I've ever had were from the pump seals themselves wearing out. That was on one pump that's now frozen up. It wasn't hard to shut down that loop and when I get unlazy enough to send the pump in for maintenance or replace it, I'll just hook it back up.

[Names Bruce]

I run a closed loop on my 180. 2" drain on the back wall near the bottom and 4 - 1" returns through the bottom. True unions are a must. I have to be honest though, so far I am not overly impressed with the flow I am getting with my dart as a return and an OM 4-way. It is decent enough but still not what I expected. Would I do it again? Probably not. A lot of work to set-up properly and expensive. The plumbing parts alone are costly with all of the unions. My tank is dead silent though as all my equipment is in another room minus the 4-way which is under the tank. Just something to consider.