Typhoon 3 extreme RODI has nitrates?

[Annap729]

How is this possible that there is a slightly pink hue in my salifert test of my RODI water? I rinsed and cleaned the container and even the scooper. done it half dozen times, still has the slightest hue to it. I thought I was getting 0 TDS??! about to do a phosphate test too.

[Annap729]

Here's a pic on a white IMAC background. I know it's a side shot and therefore 10x, but am I missing something? I'm downright laboratorical (yes that's right I made up a word for this) about my measurements. Contamination isn't a possibility either. Can't figure it out! Edited November 1, 2011 by Annap729

[Guest thefishman65]

Does the TDS meter read 0? Sounds like it, but just clarifying. Do you have a second meter? I got one just in case. Were are you located? Maybe another reefer could doulbe check. And how old are the chemicals?

[YBeNormal]

Lots of things to consider here... Which Salifert test (assuming you are testing for something other than TDS since Salifert tests do not check for TDS AFAIK)? How old is your membrane and DI resin? What is the TDS of your source water vs. the output? Are you measuring RO or RO/DI output? Are you using any intermediary containers for the water that you are testing and all are containers rinsed well with RO/DI water before capturing the water to be tested?

[Annap729]

just checked my TDS meter....looks like it was 45 ppm...perhaps a bad sample. i made some more rodi that tested zero and now i'm checking it again...

 

tis of source water is 60-80ppm. RO/DI output is measured with an in-line tds meter and a handheld....perhaps i rinsed with a contaminated RODI container (tupperware).

 

salifert test is nitrate NO3 Profi Test.

[YBeNormal]

OK, sounds like you are getting it all figured out already. FWIW, RO membranes will only remove ~90% of nitrates from source water. DI resin should mop up the rest if the resin is not exhausted already.

 

If you are reading nitrates in the effluent after the DI chamber, I would recommend taking a reading just after the RO membrane for a comparison. Same or similar NO3 readings after the RO membrane and after the DI chamber could indicate either a bad test kit, exhausted DI resin, or a contaminated test container.

[John]

I have also encountered a similiar experience when testing TDS with a hand-held meter, the readings will slowly increment with time when using the same container (even with thorough rinsing). I now use a fresh dixie cup or zip-lock bag to test TDS each time, subsequently I have more hair!

[YBeNormal]

I always used a small glass to test TDS, thoroughly rinsed with RO/DI before each test. My experience is that use of plastic containers tend to result in increased TDS readings, especially if the water is allowed to sit in the container for any length of time (e.g. in the 50G Brute storage container).

 

Since we're talking about TDS, keep in mind that TDS is not necessarily an indication that there is anything harmful in the water, only that there are charged ions of some type in the water. Some of these impurities can be identified using home tests, but many of them cannot and they are often nothing to worry about. Zero TDS also does not indicate pure water, only the absence of charged ions in the tested sample. It is entirely possible to have water with very high TDS readings that is perfectly safe to drink or to use in our reef tanks or to have water with zero TDS that could contain harmful chemicals such as pesticides. Read this article for more information on this topic.

[Annap729]

RODI Unit is brand new, but broken in (300 or so gallons).

 

have both an API and a salifert nitrate test. I tested rodi and nitrate with both API and salifert. i keep reading salifert is more idiot proof, but I'm getting such stark differences.

 

either way, my tank nitrates are high. salifert says 25ish, API 15ish. Should I do a rapid water change first thing in am or do i need to wait for salt to dissolve in rodi tonight?

Edited November 1, 2011 by Annap729

[YBeNormal]

Salifert test kits have had a pretty checkered past, with some periods where folks were receiving bad batches of test kits and even the "good" test kits were giving pretty wild readings. Search WAMAS and RC, especially for posts about three years ago, and you will see what I'm talking about. Consider the NO3 readings you are seeing to be useful in comparison to what you normally see when testing your tank water rather than a specific reading that is good or bad. If you normally have readings of 5-10 and now have readings of 25, you can safely assume nitrates have risen considerably (or that your test kit has gone bad). Whether the actual reading is 20, 30, or 40 really doesn't matter at this point. You should also look at the tank itself to see if there are signs of elevated nitrates (e.g. hair algae growing more than usual or sensitive corals beginning to show signs of stress).

 

Unless you are seeing signs of severe stress in your fish or corals, I would not panic about the 25ppm readings you are seeing. The elevated nitrates were there before you conducted the tests and unless your fish or corals are showin sever signs of stress, the nitrates will be fine until tomorrow when you get around to doing a water change. More important is figuring out why the nitrates are so high in the first place so you can address the root cause. Otherwise you will spend a fortune in water changes only to temporarily dilute an issue that will keep coming back.

[Annap729]

ok thanks. the contents are a transplant from a breakdown-the live rock is very established, purpled up, etc. the sand is also transplanted. i even used the water from the breakdown tank. this one's only a 30 gallon.

 

Anyway, i only have a mandarin goby, two damsels for fish. dozen hermits and a couple brittle stars. I also have three peppermint shrimp. the only thing that is odd is the brittle star seems to hold on to rock by his mouth and everything else pretty much hangs lifelessly. every now and again it moves like normal, but more often it's sort of hanging off the rock. No idea if this is normal-I don't really have a point of reference .

 

alright, off to bed I go. Should I do a 50% change? All I've done so far since I got the contents last week is top off.

[YBeNormal]

If this is a recent transfer of contents to the new tank, that might help explain the high NO3. You have stirred up waste that was trapped in the sand and rocks and also disturbed the anaerobic bacteria in the rocks and sand bed, basically creating a new tank syndrome. Water changes, increased filtration, and time should allow the NO3 to gradually go down as long as you do not overfeed.

 

My experience is that most starfish are pretty sensitive to high NO3 and will show this by hanging limp, eventually dieing or beginning to lose legs if the condition is not corrected. If he appears to be stressed, I would do at least a 50% water change and be prepared to do more over the next few days/weeks (remember, you will be removing a smaller percentage of the remaining NO3 with each subsequent water change). You might even consider having someone hold the starfish in an established tank until you get things back in line.

[Annap729]

Yes he's hanging limp!

[Annap729]

As some may know it appears the filter was housing some krud. Once my water changes get done hopefully I'll be ok.also I was adding brine shrimp water like an idiot