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H2o2 dosing


hypertech

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I use a product called Aqua Maid that is 3% hydrogen peroxide on fish only tanks that are hair algae nightmares and it cleans everything in a few days. Activated carbon in huge quantities after a dose is necessary.

This stuff works, but you're really treating a symptom instead of attacking the root problem.

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I've tested the source water. I've tested the tank. I don't over feed. I do over skim. There is no reason for this stuff not to be dead. I did a water change two days ago and scrubbed as much as I could and darn it all the stuff took off and had a growth spurt.

 

I'd have to take the GFO offline to run carbon. I assumed it would be better to run the gfo to absorb any phosphates from a die off. Am I better off running carbon?

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If your going to add something that has to be pulled out or the health of your tank is at risk. I would say removing the GFO is the least of your worries, unless somehow the GFO will remove it itself. Maybe someone else would know more. In my opinion, the GFO is just a filter intended to remove phosphates. I doubt they will build up fast enough to cause an issue . Unless there is some fine point that I do not know of, since I do not run any reactors at this point.

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what type of algae is it, like Rob said ID the algae and then you can see what contributes to its growth. I.E. green hair algae proliferates in lower alk, lower salinity( which can make it harder to raise your alk). id the algae first. The peroxide works well so do daily doses of PP, but youre not reaching the source of the algae, there has to be areason for it taking off....99 times out of 100 it is watr chemistry IME.

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I'd test your water for the following- Alk, Ca, Mg, P04, N03 and take it from there before dosing peroxide. Raising the Mg level to 1800+ is a good way to kill off most nuisance algae like hair, derbesia, and bryopsis. Keeping a stable Ca and Alk will go along way to preventing outbreaks too. The right mix of herbivores will also work.

You can use carbon and GFO at the same time.

I work on a few tanks with ever present algae issues, but I don't recommend using peroxide until all other options have been exhausted.

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I have one reactor. I can run carbon or GFO but not both at the same time.

 

I would run carbon. If youre not testing any phosphates or they are real low... then the carbon would do more as far as organic removal than a media designed to go after just phosphates. I would highly recommend re testing with a friends kits. In particular, test salinity with a refractometer calibrated to 35 ppt(not with RODI). and test your alk, if your test says its above 8 or 9 then you need to validate this with a test solution. I have some(1 gallon) of 12 dKH test standard, free if you bring your own bottle. I can't tell you how many people inadvertently experience this. 2 cases just recently, 1. skimmer was skimming way to wet and skimmed most of the salt out and the ato effectively lowered the salinity....they didn't think to check the salinity b/c their pH probe said 8.2-8.4 constantly. 2. Green hair algae everywhere, tried peroxide and algaecides til they brought me water...the salinity was at 1.020 and the alk was 6 dKH and her test had been showing the salinity @ 1.025 (refractometer cal with RODI) and an innacurate KH test that said it was 9-10.

 

hope that helps

 

Sean

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just my .02 but,

 

When I have problems that are water chemistry related, i recalibrate everything(alectronic or not) and test against standard solutions. out of curiousity how often do you calibrate your refractometer?

 

BTW you can make 5 gallons of dKH standard with very little soda ash or baking soda, using the reef calulator on bulkreefsupply.com

Edited by F&Fmgr
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I calibrate mine every time. I believe it's in the instructions. The room temperature can change readings. After all, we are talking in the .oo1 range when room temp can vary by 10 degrees... Just my two sense. :happy:

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It has been a little while since I calibrated it. I don't trust my solution anymore. It's sealed tight but it has been opened for too long. I didn't think to add any to my recent BRS order either........

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I calibrate mine every time. I believe it's in the instructions. The room temperature can change readings. After all, we are talking in the .oo1 range when room temp can vary by 10 degrees... Just my two sense. :happy:

Unless you are using a fresh solution every time you are probably doing more harm than good.

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I never let the lid stay off more than the 10-20 second it takes to put 3 drops... Although I could see as the water level drops and fresh air is added it could concentrate more.

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Day 5

 

Algae might be taking a brownish hue. Or, my mind is playing tricks on me hoping something is finally working. One thing is for sure, it is matting up in high flow areas like pumps and the overflow. I scrubbed it today. Removed a pile of it. Probably released a bunch back into the water but at least I got some our and it doesn't look so bad now. Ph has dropped about 0.2. Not sure if it's related.

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sounds like your right on course. the algae will start to lose its chlorophyll, retarding or stopping photosynthesis which will cause it to die. what i did after i got to this poiunt was to manually remove as much of the algae as possible. my thought process was that if there is less algae for the peroxide to "work" on then the peroxide will work better. the other thing i noticed when i did this was that hte fresh tears were even more susceptible to the oxidation caused by the peroxide.

 

best of luck,

 

Sean

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Day 9

 

Algae is still growing but it really seems to be thinning. I will probably scub it again in the next day or so.

 

Some sps are starting to become more pale/pastel but polyp extension has increased. I'm not sure what to make of it.

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