DIY LED Light plans (made by a noob)

[Dogbert4pres]

I freely admit being a noob, tiger can't change his stripes overnight. Near as I can peice together from everyone confusing me I drew up these plans. Can someone give me a sanity check on this because I am not understanding what is being told to me.

 

This is intended to light a 4ftx8ft raceway for coral, water to be 18" total depth but with the eggcrate at 12". It was highly suggested to use a motorized track system in the ceiling to move the LED fixture back and forth (I think it is running at 1ft per minute)

 

Thanks

img001.pdf

[DaveS]

Silly question... Why put it on a track? Why not speed the LEDs a little further apart and just cover the entire surface? Unlike mh which only domes in about 4 power settings, LEDs have an infinite variation in intensity based on placement density and current supply. Al brackets aren't that expensive and you would have one less moving part to break. Just wondering...

[Dogbert4pres]

I believe the length rules out a simple extension, but am probably wrong. I do not think one fixture would cover the entire length requiring 2 fixtures.

 

 

[Brian Ward]

If you're going to move it from left to right, I would rotate your LED fixture to put the long side orthogonal to the track. That will reduce your empty space and should improve your coverage.

[Guest thefishman65]

I think the big question is how many LEDs are you thinking. And how are you placing them what kind. Etc. Moving light rails are nothing new. Petland is getting rid of theirs in favor of multiple LED fixtures.

[Dogbert4pres]

If you're going to move it from left to right, I would rotate your LED fixture to put the long side orthogonal to the track. That will reduce your empty space and should improve your coverage.

 

 

Now why did I not think of that, doh! That actually make a ton of sense since instead of making the lights with a 20" gap between them, it could be increased to something a bit longer and even out the intensity. Actually something could be quickly framed up once the 2 lights are built , set at the height desired PAR at depth, then moved so the levels are more consistent.

 

The heat sinks themselves at the 18"x8.46" ones from reefledlights.com which can hold 72 LEDs, he gets them from heatsinksusa. I have an Apogee QM-200 on order so after I do an initial 24 XP-E RB and 12 XP-G CW from the group buy and add another 12 XP-E CWs the web on each of the fixtures, will check the PAR and can adjust up or down accordingly, height above water and distance between the two. I think the timers are set for the RBs to be up 14 hours, the GB CWs up 12 hours, and the XP-E CWs on for 6. I went with his gear since he was most helpful and has kits for newbies like me. Predrilled and tapped heatsinks, solderless connections.... stuff to make it easy for a first timer.