RJT March 23, 2011 Share March 23, 2011 I am starting a new 110 gallon reef tank. A friend gave me a CPR Sump model 800. Does anyone have any experience setting one up? I am new to sumps and don't know how to get started. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 23, 2011 Share March 23, 2011 I had a CPR sump that I had set up years ago. Could you post a picture? If it is the same (or similar) as the one I used to have, I can probably help out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 23, 2011 Author Share March 23, 2011 (edited) Thank you for your help. Here is a pic. Mine doesn't have the pump pictured. I want to take the protein skimmer out and make it a refuge. I was thinking of getting a mag 12 for the return. Edited March 23, 2011 by RJT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 23, 2011 Share March 23, 2011 hah, I just spent 15 minutes writing a response that vanished! grrr. I will repost in a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 23, 2011 Share March 23, 2011 Yep, that is the one (or like it) that I had. A couple of starting questions: Are you setting up a reef? If yes, you will want to remove the media from the wet/dry area. If no and it will be a fish only tank, media in there is ok. Are you going to use the skimmer? I used it, it works ok and runs on a rio 1700 with a needle wheel and a goofy dual suction thing that draws air in in a non-venturi type way. If no, make sure whatever skimmer you plan on getting will fit, I hear some of the newer skimmers have trouble fitting in there. Two compartments, one for the skimmer and one for the wet/dry/return area. On setup, run an overflow line to the skimmer compartment (you can plumb it to the white pvc connection that you can see in the top-left of the picture). Also, run a return pump (either internal or external, whatever you prefer. I prefer internal myself, like a eheim 1262 or mag 7/9.5) from the 'L' shaped compartment back to the main tank (make sure it is either above the return tank teeth or there is an anti-siphon hole in the return). Once you are all plumbed, fill the main tank up to the teeth on the overflow and fill the skimmer compartment in the sump until it starts to overflow into the 'L' shaped section. Then fill the 'L' shaped section to around 3/4 or so. Then start the return pump and watch sump level until it either equalizes or the pump starts to draw in air. If it equalizes, add or remove water to put the water level around 3-6" or so above the return pump suction. If the water level drops down to where it starts to draw air, shut the system off and let ewater levels all equalize. Then add a couple more inches water to the sump and try again until you find the level that your system will run at and will not overflow when you shut it off. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 23, 2011 Author Share March 23, 2011 wow, excellent. Yes, it will be reef. What do you think about using that skimmer section as a refuge? Yep, that is the one (or like it) that I had. A couple of starting questions: Are you setting up a reef? If yes, you will want to remove the media from the wet/dry area. If no and it will be a fish only tank, media in there is ok. Are you going to use the skimmer? I used it, it works ok and runs on a rio 1700 with a needle wheel and a goofy dual suction thing that draws air in in a non-venturi type way. If no, make sure whatever skimmer you plan on getting will fit, I hear some of the newer skimmers have trouble fitting in there. Two compartments, one for the skimmer and one for the wet/dry/return area. On setup, run an overflow line to the skimmer compartment (you can plumb it to the white pvc connection that you can see in the top-left of the picture). Also, run a return pump (either internal or external, whatever you prefer. I prefer internal myself, like a eheim 1262 or mag 7/9.5) from the 'L' shaped compartment back to the main tank (make sure it is either above the return tank teeth or there is an anti-siphon hole in the return). Once you are all plumbed, fill the main tank up to the teeth on the overflow and fill the skimmer compartment in the sump until it starts to overflow into the 'L' shaped section. Then fill the 'L' shaped section to around 3/4 or so. Then start the return pump and watch sump level until it either equalizes or the pump starts to draw in air. If it equalizes, add or remove water to put the water level around 3-6" or so above the return pump suction. If the water level drops down to where it starts to draw air, shut the system off and let ewater levels all equalize. Then add a couple more inches water to the sump and try again until you find the level that your system will run at and will not overflow when you shut it off. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 23, 2011 Share March 23, 2011 I think that would work just fine, you could probably find a light that would fill the spot the skimmer goes through, which would look quite nice. A disadvantage of it would be that all the flow through the sump goes through the refugium and it would probably mean that you are putting a skimmer in the return section (which doesn't have a stable water level unless you get an ATO... which I recommend strongly). I don't personally think that all flow through the sump going through the refugium is an issue... but there are those that do. Both issues have a reasonable solution, though. So I would go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 23, 2011 Author Share March 23, 2011 Thank you Sir. What type of seahorses do you have? I am making my 60g hexagon that will be a seahorse tank soon. I think that would work just fine, you could probably find a light that would fill the spot the skimmer goes through, which would look quite nice. A disadvantage of it would be that all the flow through the sump goes through the refugium and it would probably mean that you are putting a skimmer in the return section (which doesn't have a stable water level unless you get an ATO... which I recommend strongly). I don't personally think that all flow through the sump going through the refugium is an issue... but there are those that do. Both issues have a reasonable solution, though. So I would go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 24, 2011 Share March 24, 2011 No problem I go by Chad, though I have H. erectus, seahorses are great, there are a few others in the club that have them. Even one (that I know of) that is dabbling in breeding. Let me know if you need any help with them. They are pretty easy to keep if you follow just a couple of rigid rules (like temperature < 74F). A 60 gallon hex will make a great seahorse tank! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 24, 2011 Author Share March 24, 2011 Thanks Chad. Hello I'm Richard. The seahorse tank will stay around 71. Its not drilled so I have a RemoraC skimmer and Marineland 280 biowheel filter. With 25lbs live rock a few fake plants. It will be running for a few months by the time I get them. Right now 2 bartlett anthias and 2 clownfish with a group of red leg hermits occupy the tank. Only the hermits will be there when I get the tank. What would you change about this setup? I have a yellow plant and a black plant in the tank (not sure what color seahorse I will get) No problem I go by Chad, though I have H. erectus, seahorses are great, there are a few others in the club that have them. Even one (that I know of) that is dabbling in breeding. Let me know if you need any help with them. They are pretty easy to keep if you follow just a couple of rigid rules (like temperature < 74F). A 60 gallon hex will make a great seahorse tank! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 24, 2011 Share March 24, 2011 Welcome to WAMAS, by the way, Richard! Hermit crabs (and other crabs in general) are much debated with seahorses... the potential issue is that an opportunistic crab might find a hitched seahorse tail too good to pass up. I have seen this with some of the larger red legged hermits. Some will say not to keep any crabs at all... I tend to think that (with smaller crabs anyway, like dwarf blue legged crabs) that the seahorses pose more of a threat to the crabs than the other way around. One of my seahorses is quite adept at eating small hermit crabs. All that being said, I do add ble legged crabs to the tank from time to time. I also keep a few small emrald crabs, but I have a size cutoff for them... if they get bigger than about 3/4 inch, they go in my sump tank. So long story short, I have had good luck staying away from crabs that get bigger than ~1", but many will say not to use them at all. With the skimmer, live rock, and the biowheel you are probably good on filtration (although keep an eye on nitrates and perhaps remove the biowheel and just use it for carbon and/or GFO). What is in the tank for flow? Seahorse tank flow is tricky, but you can probably have a lot more flow (which is good) than you think if you do it right... I have two tunze 6055s and a nano wavebox in my 58. How about lighting? There has been some work done that shows brighter lighting tends to cause their colors to go a little more drab or natural colors, which could be true, mine always seem to turn to a mottled tan, brown or white color most of the time and I have bright reef-type lighting. I tend to think, though, that the seahorses will be whatever color they want to be whenever they want (I wouldn't buy a seahorse for color, it will likely change). The other part of the lighting questions goes to what you plan on keeping with the seahorses... many people have good luck keeping some sort of a macro algae with them... two main benefits: nutrient reduction and a place for amphipods, isopods and perhaps mysis to grow (supplemental feeding is always good). However, usually more lighting means more problems keeping temperature low, which, IMO, is the number one absolute NEED for successfully keeping seahorses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 25, 2011 Author Share March 25, 2011 Thank you Chad, I will use just a maxijet 600 since my tank is so narrow. Or should I go with more flow? So I should get rid of the biowheel and use a gfo to remove phosphates and nitrates? The protein skimmer will remove the filth in the water. I heard of people doing that but I was a little wary of doing that. My lighting isn't strong enough for algae and I will probably keep it that way. Great tip on not buying the seahorses based on color. Where is a good place to buy them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 The maxijet 600 probably will not be enough by itself, but two would probably work. Try to minimize dead areas, but also try to have some slow moving (turnover can be high, but low velocity) areas as well. GFO will reduce phosphates, but not nitrates. That will be accomplished via your LR, careful rinsing of food and removing excess, and perhaps water changes. Biowheels can raise your nitrates, LR and a protein skimmer are all you really need Seahorsesource.com is great, also, Peka (Beth) on RC is a good breeder, and seahorse.com is a good, but expensive source, or ORA (ordered and picked up in a shipping bag, not out of the tanks) at a lfs. Just make sure that you get them directly from a captive breeder without exposure to potential pathogens (if through an lfs, picked up while still in bags). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluce March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 Hi RJT - welcome to the club. Chad gives some pretty good information / advice. I'm not a seahorse guy, but you may also want to message Jan - she has a really nice hexagon seahorse tank with gorgonia's and macros that looks great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 25, 2011 Author Share March 25, 2011 Hi RJT - welcome to the club. Chad gives some pretty good information / advice. I'm not a seahorse guy, but you may also want to message Jan - she has a really nice hexagon seahorse tank with gorgonia's and macros that looks great. Hello, thank you. I will contact her today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJT March 25, 2011 Author Share March 25, 2011 Thanks Chad, esp about ordering from lfs. I will send you pics when the tank is setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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