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In wall tanks


BowieReefer84

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To anyone who is thinking of creating an in-wall tank, and want to avoid the sounds from the pumps ect I would reccommend this product:

 

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/literature/111029.pdf

 

I used to work as a project manager for a subcontractor, and we used it on certain projects. The difference it makes is simply amazing. I have been looking at a lot of threads on here lately that involve construction, but no mention of what type of drywall is being used. I know that Capitol Building Supply carries or can get this product. With using this board there is no need to even bother with insulation. If you do decide to insulate I would go with a fsk backed paper. You cannot legally leave regular foil backed or paper exposed by code. Or you can drywall both sides with whatever insulation in the middle you should choose. If you are going to drywall both sides I would reccommend using mineral wool for the insulation, rather than fiberglass (it won't make you itch). The products I have talked about do cost more money, but when you are likely only doing a small section of wall it is well worth the expense. If you go with regular drywall and no insulation and decide it is to loud, it would be a pain to go back....

 

I am not planning on an inwall tank, but hope this information is able to help anyone that is in the planning stages themselves.

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I'm working on a sound proof wall for a guy who wants to sing in the morning. I have access to several brands as well, but extremely costly. I have access to Capt. Supply as well. You might look into just doubling the drywall with pink insulation in the walls and 2"x6" boards. ALOT cheaper and engineers say it works just as well as a 3/4" sound board panel for 3-5x the price!

Howard

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(edited)

I'm working on a sound proof wall for a guy who wants to sing in the morning. I have access to several brands as well, but extremely costly. I have access to Capt. Supply as well. You might look into just doubling the drywall with pink insulation in the walls and 2"x6" boards. ALOT cheaper and engineers say it works just as well as a 3/4" sound board panel for 3-5x the price!

Howard

 

It does cost alot more, but if you are doing say a 12 or 16 foot wall it would only be a limited amount of board. Also, you could build a thinner wall for a larger room. There are pro's and con's to both scenerios. I get your point and the price is a little hard to accept.

 

On a side note, I have seen some new insulations out there that are made out of old denim jeans or something. The R-value was ridiculously high based on the thickness (I want to say it was like 3 1/2"). Not sure of the brand, but may be helpful in trying to get the highest STC rated wall possible. Not sure if you have enough space, but you could build a double studded offset wall similiar to this: http://www.your-home...d_Stud_Wall.jpg

 

Although, I would use metal studs at 24" OC. Metal is better than wood for STC ratings. Not sure what height the wall will be but just confirm on your limiting heights tables the best option. If you could do 20ga at 16"oc and need something like 18ga for 24" oc I would go with the 18ga. I would use 6" track with 3.5/8" studs wrapping the insulation around them like a snake. Also, make sure to stagger your joints at the head of the wall, and use putty pads behind any outlets. The last job I was on was NCE right off 95, and the spec's were insane. Goodluck!

 

ps: Always use a bead of acoustical caulk at the top and bottom of the wall!!!!!

Edited by BowieReefer84
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If you don't have access to the other side of the wall. (like in an apartment and the other tenant doesn't want their wall torn down) I am assuming you are going with a shaftwall assembly? Just curious.

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I used to work as a project manager for a subcontractor

Unemployed or career change? I need a good PM so PM me if you are looking.

 

Sound board is nice but it is really expensive. STC requirements can get expensive. I just spent $10k on a door to get the STC rating that was specified for the project.

 

Metal studs are the way to go, 6" wide is better, screwed with rubber spacers/washers, install insulation. Then run hat channel horizontal at 16" center and only screw it at the bottom lip, again with rubber spacers/washers, let the top float. The caulk you mentioned is very important, as well as the often over looked ceiling construction and the STC rating of the door. Baffles in air ducts also help to reduce the sound transmission.

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