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Stu

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I am in the process of switching over to Brightwell's NeoMarine. My tank has been up since May 08 and all I have ever used is Crystal Sea Bio Assay. I am switching to get rid of the brown slime I always get after water changes. I am just about done with my first bucket. What I have noticed so far is no more brown slime and a drop in my magnesium level. I have had to up the dosing of Magnesium. I am doing 10% water changes every week. So far corals look good with great polyp extension.

 

Keep us posted Dave.

 

I've considered making the change myself, but am waiting on more feedback.

 

So are you having to touch the glass a lot less now?

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The NeoMarine gives out a "weird" smell (not bad just different from the smell you get with new saltwater made with RC or IO) but it mixes fast in the water and doesn't leave any residue.

Edited by Boret
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i started the hobby using Reef Crystals which was great and then i wanted to try other brands to expand my knowledge of what would work best in my tank, i switched to Seachem and really liked it to, now im on Tropic Marin reef Pro and also seems to be working great so truthfully i cant really tell which one of the brands i have used is better than the other, i guess go with the cheaper choice which is Reef Crystals, im sure it will provide you with the nutrients your reef needs for now.

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The NeoMarine gives out a "weird" smell (not bad just different from the smell you get with new saltwater made with RC or IO) but it mixes fast in the water and doesn't leave any residue.

 

Yeah, I have noticed that smell too with the NeoMarine..wonder what that is all about. The smell goes away quickly though while mixing (minute or two).

 

I am on 2nd bucket and it seems to be doing well. I liked RC too for the short time I had it going. The BW does not leave any sediment type stuff and rapidly mixes and clears...it compares very much to TMP. It is also more concentrated than RC from what I have seen. Takes less of it to get to the SG.

 

I get these numbers in the NeoMarine change water container after an hour of strong mixing:

 

@1.025 (refract. calibrated w/ Fauna Marin ref. fluid and Pinpoint 53.0mS fluid)

Ca 420 Salifert

dKH 11 Salifert

Mg 1250 Elos

K ~380 -> ~400 Fauna Marin

Sr 4 - 10 Salifert

 

Does that dkH # compare with what you have found Boret?

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That is still high dKH for what I want.... it is supposed to give you ~7.5dKH @ 1.025... are you adding kalk or trace elements?

I need to measure mine. I just did a batch yesterday, I will measure today to see the dKH reading I get.

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Keep us posted Dave.

 

I've considered making the change myself, but am waiting on more feedback.

 

So are you having to touch the glass a lot less now?

 

Yes, I only need to clean the glass once through the week...and then of course when I do my regular Cleaning and water change...

 

It does last longer. I got three water changes out of the CSBA box and I will get my fourth (and last) this next water change out of the NeoMarine.

 

I will keep you posted on how the corals do...over time

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darn it!!! :angry: I also get 11dKH with API KH test kit.

 

Yeah, that is what I got with both bucket tests. I am not too bothered with the 11dkH change water even with running the NeoZeo system w/ stones. After 9 weeks I am running at 8.6 in the display.

 

Not sure why it doesn't settle more (not complaining!)..it sure did with the other zeo system I ran (5.5-6.5). Time will tell. I almost hope BW does not change the alk, but I have feeling they will drop it to 7.5 like it is supposed to be. Then everyone will want it to be higher lol.

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I was told by a sales rep for Brightwell that while other salts claim to make 150 gallons of water, that is based on 1.021 salinity. The Brightwell makes a true 150 gallons at 1.026, so your basically paying a little more, however to make the same 150 gallons with "most" of the other brands at 1.026, you need to have more salt, in fact quite a bit raising the cost of the other brands.

 

Anyone documenting or even noticing any changes in the overall appearance of the corals, specifically the SPS?

 

Sorry to the original thread starter if you feel hi jacked.

:(

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  • 6 months later...

Some discussions I've seen hypothesized that maybe it's clay residue - possibly used to keep the mixture free-flowing and dry. I don't know for sure, though.

That's an interesting one too. Hrm.

 

 

My favorite hypothesis (accumulated from various postings on Reef Central) is that it's a bacterial residue/side-effect of the vitamins present in most salt mixes. As they break down (1-4 days?) that's enough for bacteria to grow if the salt is left mixing "more than long enough". By the same token, that's one reason it's not recommended to keep your saltwater premixed for long periods - it becomes vitamin deficient. (Which is not to say it can't still be dosed with vitamins and used, but you've kinda wasted money at that point.)

 

Anyone have a microscope to examine some of the brown film close up? Should be pretty obvious under magnification whether it's mostly animal or mostly mineral.

 

-Matt

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