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building a media reactor


dschflier

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This is my situation. I got about 6 to 8' of either 8 or 10" PVC for free. It is pretty expensive stuff and want to put it to use. I want to build a media reactor and was curious if anyone would be willing to share some insight or plans they might have. I have most of the major tools I would need although I am not all that proficient with them all.

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See if you can imagine this: Take a 2' section and put threaded test caps on both ends. Drill 2 holes in top big enough to use 1" bulkeads. On one of them, attach a 1" male threaded adapter with a length of pipe that goes almost to the bottom. This will be the inlet side. The other will be the outlet side. Fill chamber with media of your choice and place screen/foam on top to prevent media from leaving the chamber.

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do you have any pictures?

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Do me a favor and record the voices next time you hear them and maybe I can put the voices into writing. It may help us both.

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Dave, I used some acrylic tubing to do this. I think that the drawback to the diameter tubing you are using is that it's hard to get the water to disperse evenly without pumping up the flow. What I did was stuck some caps on either end and then drilled the top with two holes for 1" PVC bulkheads (basically a coupling on one side and a male piece on the other, each with a gasket). I ran one down to the bottom of the reactor chamber and the other one I left open at the top. I glued some acrylic in there to hold up a piece of egg crate and then took round foam to keep the media in the reactor. I have a picture of it in my tank build thread. That said, it works and can handle tons of flow but the carbon when fluidized I find breaks down too much and resulted in HLLE for some of my fish. I have since changed my design to have the media in the bottom, then a foam pad, then filter floss jammed in to filter out any broken down carbon, covered again by a foam pad and then the egg crate to keep it from going through. I load it upside down and then flip it over and connect it.

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Dave,

 

I will take a look at your thread. I also have a large industrial reactor built by Dan which I use at Roozens to treat half of their tanks. I will look at it closer to get a better feel for how it works. The idea is simple enough it is just getting everything to fit properly and getting the cuts correct.

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I can take the clowns. I will call you. Their suffering will finally be over. ;)

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Hey Dave, I think the key to any reactor is to get flow through the media and to NOT cause it to disintegrate into dust. Therefore, gentle flow is best that is well dispersed. I think that in building a reactor, you don't even have to have it look pretty. I was thinking of building disposable reactors out of the apple juice bottles my kids drink out of by using john guest fittings and a cap that I recycle. Just stuff the tubing in there, stick the media in the bottom, and let it run. It doesn't have to be fancy, just accomplish the two things I mentioned. That's one of the problems with a fluidized media reactor - it will possibly cause the media to disintegrate and then you get the ill effects of the carbon dust in your tank.

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:) I think that would work. The instant you removed them from your garbage filled tank they would grow legs and run to my tank.
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Hey Dave, I think the key to any reactor is to get flow through the media and to NOT cause it to disintegrate into dust. Therefore, gentle flow is best that is well dispersed. I think that in building a reactor, you don't even have to have it look pretty. I was thinking of building disposable reactors out of the apple juice bottles my kids drink out of by using john guest fittings and a cap that I recycle. Just stuff the tubing in there, stick the media in the bottom, and let it run. It doesn't have to be fancy, just accomplish the two things I mentioned. That's one of the problems with a fluidized media reactor - it will possibly cause the media to disintegrate and then you get the ill effects of the carbon dust in your tank.

 

I hear you dave, although I have not had the experience of my carbon disintegrating. If anything I worry more about the Phosphate media crumbling. I primarily want to learn to build one just for my knowledge and satisfaction at being able to build something like this. Secondly because I have so many pieces around and many tools I may as well build something and learn in the process.

 

I have not had my carbon disintegrate into dust, but if you put a reactor on a high enough flow I suppose that could be an issue. I see it being more of an issue with GFO. Slow flow is important when running carbon because liquid phase adsorption is a relatively slow process. I think the issue with a reactor is if you push the water through it to slowly you can get channeling and if it is to fast some may break up but more importantly the liquid wont have the proper time to diffuse into the carbon. I think this is the main argument why many people like running the water through reactors just fast enough so the media slightly tumbles. This should help prevent channeling. I run carbon 24/7 and think it is most efficient when used in a reactor. I believe the flow rate can be much slower then people currently use and you can get more efficient use of the carbon as long as channeling can be prevented.

 

If I can learn how to build a reactor I would then like to figure a way to design it so the flow rate can be as slow as desired while preventing channeling. Maybe a slowly rotating nozzel. I will ask a friend who deals with this stuff in large plants to see what they do but if anyone has ideas I am always open to them.

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Does anyone know how, and have the tool needed to cut 8" PVC pipe. If not does anyone have any idea as to how to do this. The stuff is about an 1" thick. I am not sure if using my table saw is a good idea. I am looking for straight cuts.

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For home tools, the only thing I can think of are:

 

12" Mitre saw (but you would have to cut from both sides but at least it'll be straight)

Power saw

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You dont think my table saw would do it? I am a bit apprehensive to try it.

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It'll spin on a table saw (or at least I think it would). I would try either a band saw (although you'd need a big one for that diameter pipe). I don't think the mitre saw would work, either. I would think it would crack the pipe as it goes through. You could always use a good old fashioned hand saw, but it might be difficult to get it straight without wrapping it in a guide of some sort. Perhaps a large diameter pipe clamp would help.

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I cut plenty of PVC's with the mitre with no problems although I only tried it with 4". I think the key is to go slow. The blade spins so fast and the PVC is tough at that size.

It's probably the best option to get a straight cut and plus you can brace the pipe against the saw.

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