Need EASY step-by-step

[treesprite]

I'm looking for some ideas for very simple T-5 retro fixture and step-by-step instructions that even a total DIY noob can follow without difficulty.

 

36x18 tank, which I think with individual reflectors will do with 6 bulbs. Open-top tank.

 

Need to plan fans into it, but don't want to have to use a lot of them. Currently I am keeping the tank at 80f having a fan on each end of Nova Extreme and fan on back of the tank.

 

My biggest problem is that I don't know how people build so that the ballasts and wires aren't directly over the water - I'm assuming there's a barrier. Like I said, noob.

 

If you have some plans on documents that can be e-mailed, you could e-mail them to me - I can give address over PM.

 

Hope people have stuff. THANK YOU bunches and bunches for the help!

[sde219]

36x18 tank, which I think with individual reflectors will do with 6 bulbs. Open-top tank.

 

How do you want to do open-top with the retrofit? Are you planning to make an entire fixture, floating canopy, or something entirely different?

 

 

It's pretty easy to do the ballast connections - you can get plug sets or if you know some techie people with extra computer pieces, you can make quick-disconnects so that the canopy/fixture only has cords coming out and the ballasts are stored below.

 

Do you have ballasts to use or a preference on how to wire them? IE 2 bulbs per ballast, 4 to one ballast, or something different?

 

It'll be easier to map out a design with some of these restrictions in mind.

[treesprite]

How do you want to do open-top with the retrofit? Are you planning to make an entire fixture, floating canopy, or something entirely different?

It's pretty easy to do the ballast connections - you can get plug sets or if you know some techie people with extra computer pieces, you can make quick-disconnects so that the canopy/fixture only has cords coming out and the ballasts are stored below.

 

Do you have ballasts to use or a preference on how to wire them? IE 2 bulbs per ballast, 4 to one ballast, or something different?

 

It'll be easier to map out a design with some of these restrictions in mind.

The reason for doing this is to have individual reflectors instead of having bulbs scrunched together under one shiny panel that is basically covered by the bulbs rather than reflecting any light. I'm going to gut my pre-fab for the basic lighting parts until I feel like having high-end parts is absolutely necessary. I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing before I go getting anything to build this, so at the moment I'm trying to plan and to learn. Maybe I'll get some chances to see other people's T-5 retros up close.

 

Rushed diagram just now.... maybe like this. It's like a frame with enough of a trim to keep the lights out of view rather than full panels. It could also have removable panels. I have no idea what I'm doing. I need to know where the lighting parts go and how the lights are afixed, where the fans would go, etc.

Edited November 3, 2008 by treesprite

[Integral9]

 

I would go with 6 3' bulbs running the length of the tank. I would mount the fan(s) with filters on the top of the fixture. You are also going to need a piece of acrylic to shield the reflectors from any salt spray. The bulbs and water proof end caps should be ok, but the reflectors need to stay as shiny as possible. I would use 3 separate ballasts and do 12 hour, 10 hour and 8 hour lighting. If you can, and I think you might have enough room to do this, leave an 1-1/2 inch gap in the middle of the reflectors for LEDs. 6 whites and 6 blues (3ea per side) should be good.

 

I built my own T5 canopy for my 55. I put 4 T5s and 12 LEDs in the canopy. It's an open-back canopy, but the rest is closed. The canopy opens in a clam shell fashion (imagine the flip top head commercials) to allow better access to the bulbs when changing. The front also opens like a garage door for feeding and minor maintenance. The bulbs hang about 8 inches off the water which left enough room to install the two 5" IceCap fans (one on each end) I got. I also left an inch below where the canopy sits on the tank and the bottom of the canopy so it fits snugly on the top of the tank and also so you'd have to try real hard to knock it off. That left 2 inches for the bulbs and reflectors which only needed about 1-1/2. Due to space and safety reasons I mounted the ballasts on the back of the canopy outside. It's open back, but there is a 1x4 inch piece of strapping running across the back for support. I used Tek-II reflectors, Sunpark HO T5 Ballasts and am currently using Geissemann <sp> bulbs.

Edited November 3, 2008 by Integral9

[rioreef]

I have an Oceanic top and I added a piece of sealed wood at each end for the retro to mount into. The wires go over the top and out of the way of the reflectors. They then come out the back zip tied together down to the ballasts under the tank in the stand. The fans (two) are mounted with two screws at the top of the fans and blow inward at each back side of the top. The air circulates and is expelled out the middle back of the top using the movement of the air and the natural tendency of the warm air to rise (will easily follow this path described). This way I can get cooler air being push into the canopy via two fans instead of one and having the other one pull out the air.

 

[treesprite]

This is really helpful info, thanks.

 

I think I've seen a picture of that flip-top canopy, unless someone else also has one like it. How do you do a flip-top if the back is open? Is it hinged in front or back of canopy?

 

I think If I have the back open and the fans, maybe the temp will be ok doing a typical-looking hood. I'm really concerned about the wires and ballasts getting wet. Can I use pc fans and power supply? I have a couple spare power supplies; I would also be worried about that getting wet.

 

I need to know how to build the hood or cover itself. As I said, my biggest worry it the electrical stuff, and the way the hood is built of course with that in mind.

[Integral9]

I think I've seen a picture of that flip-top canopy, unless someone else also has one like it. How do you do a flip-top if the back is open? Is it hinged in front or back of canopy?

Hinges are on the back. In the pick posted and in my canopy, there is a board running across the back for support. It's smaller than the other 3 sides of the canopy so it leaves the back open.

I think If I have the back open and the fans, maybe the temp will be ok doing a typical-looking hood. I'm really concerned about the wires and ballasts getting wet. Can I use pc fans and power supply? I have a couple spare power supplies; I would also be worried about that getting wet.

I don't see why not. PC fans are 12V so if they fall in the tank the electrical shock will be minimal if at all. I'd keep the PC power supplies outside the hood, unless you have a really small one ala microATX. Then you could probably mount it behind the reflectors.

I need to know how to build the hood or cover itself. As I said, my biggest worry it the electrical stuff, and the way the hood is built of course with that in mind.

When I built mine, I started with the frame (4 vertical sides) that I cut out of a 1x10 and a 1x4(for the back). Once that was complete, I cut out the top from some ply-wood then painted it all. I then installed the reflectors, LEDs, endcaps with wires and put it all together. The ballasts were the last to go on because I mounted them to the back of the hood. The electrical stuff is really easy. If you can follow a picture you're already 50% there. The T5 ballasts will probably have the electrical diagram printed on them. Mine do. Just pay attention to which wire goes where and you'll be fine. FYI: There might be a yellow wire in the picture that connects one bulb to the other, that doesn't come with the ballast. Just use some of the leftover wire from one of the other leads; doesn't matter which color the wire is.

[rioreef]

I'm really concerned about the wires and ballasts getting wet. Can I use pc fans and power supply? I have a couple spare power supplies; I would also be worried about that getting wet.

 

 

 

Those are PC fans with the wiring having disconnects and are wired in parallel (not in series).

[treesprite]

I dug up a ps that is only 152 watts, relatively small physical size. Using the pc fans/ps will let me have multiple fans without needing multiple places to plug things in.

[Integral9]

I dug up a ps that is only 152 watts, relatively small physical size. Using the pc fans/ps will let me have multiple fans without needing multiple places to plug things in.

 

Curious, is that an AT pwr sup or ATX? I'm not sure how you would turn on an ATX power supply without a motherboard. It's a soft switch that's controlled by shorting the right pins from the 20pin connector. I'm sure it can be done by crossing the right wires or getting a rocker switch and connecting it to the correct wires. The old AT pwr sups have a master on / off switch.

[rioreef]

My PC fans do not run off a PC power supply. I use a single 12vdc transformer plug and spliced the wiring from the fans. Fans are wired in parallel, meaning the wires from the 12vdc supply is spliced to both fans at the same location. As long as the amps on the 12vdc is more than the total amps of all the fans you are ok and have only one plug. Running is series (each fan is wired off the previous fan) will decrease power to each fan after the first, not what you want to do. I also have connectors after the splice going the the fans. This way I can disconnect one and leave the other running.

 

PC fans can have three wires, usually red, black, and yellow. Ignore the yellow. Lots of threads on Reefcentral on this and I am sure many here have done the same thing.

 

BTW, with my fans blowing into the canopy, the fans do not get salt creep on them or moisture (I do have glass tops over the tanks but do not cover the entire tank, back 2 inches is open). I just clean the fans off of accumulated dust every few months. I have been using the same two fans that cost me $15 total four years ago.

Edited November 6, 2008 by rioreef

[treesprite]

Do you mean the plugs for things that usually run on batteries? If so, does it have to be 12v or can it be higher? I have at least 6 or 7 of those floating around from things that I probably no longer have. That would be pleasantly simple - I'd rather do that than use a power supply.

[rioreef]

Yes, that is what I am talking about. I had extras and I looked for the one that had the appropriate amps and used that.

 

Most PC fans operate on 12v.