Designers: Let's make it work...

[salmon alley]

I need a design for a DIY pedant/canopy and I"m hoping someone can help me come up with an idea that meet my criteria, cuz I'm stuck!

 

Here's the tank specs: 48" long and 24" front to back

 

Here's what I've got to work with:

(2) hqi mini lumenarc pendants (measuring 11" x 13" each)

(4) 54w T5 bulb retros with SLR reflectors which measure 2.5" wide each

(1) Aluminum rail and light mover to fit the rail

 

Here's my criteria: Can be either hanging pendant type setup or canopy type setup, BUT if canopy, must be OPEN top. I want heat and moisture to be able to escape out around the fixtures.

I also need it to be able to be easily raised or slide out of the way for easy access to the tank

 

So, that's it...should be a piece of cake, right?

 

Seriously, I've been trying to figure out how to do this for weeks and I need to get either buckle down and do it, or sell off the components and buy an Outer Orbit fixture... (please, let's not turn this into a "if you decide to sell, I want...." thread)

 

Thanks!

[Highland Reefer]

This idea may work for you:

 

 

 

 

[treesprite]

that's a pretty cool canopy. Does the back also lift up like the front does, in case the person wants to get in back rather than in front?

[salmon alley]

Hmm interesting design. How does one access the bulbs within the "inner canopy" ? Looks like it might be a little challenging to get at them.

[Guest webshout]

I've seen Cliff's tank and it looks fairly easy to get to the bulbs. HTH.

[dandy7200]

Robie did an excellent job building a similar canopy:

 

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?show...19&hl=hobby

[Highland Reefer]

Hmm interesting design. How does one access the bulbs within the "inner canopy" ? Looks like it might be a little challenging to get at them.

 

I have two 400 W metal halides in a retro kit in there. I have two pieces of glass you lift up from below and then simply change the bulbs. You can alter this design for whatever you want to put in there. I had actinic bulbs in the main compartment, but later removed them when I went to 14,000 K bulbs. The back & top is covered with a filter material used for furnace filters to allow air flow & to keep the stray light down.

 

 

 

that's a pretty cool canopy. Does the back also lift up like the front does, in case the person wants to get in back rather than in front?

 

You can swing it up from the front or back.

[Boret]

Highland Reefer, what is this filter material you speak of??

Something that could be readily available at Home Despotism?

[Highland Reefer]

Highland Reefer, what is this filter material you speak of??

Something that could be readily available at Home Despotism?

 

Homer sells it in different material types & size packs. It's cheap. People use it for off size furnace filters, etc. It helps keep the dust, etc from entering into your aqaurium. Mine is about ready to change because infortunately, mine is next to a wood burning stove, which will expel ashes when cleaning. :(

Edited April 28, 2008 by Highland Reefer

[salmon alley]

I like the idea of the aluminum frame skinned with wood trim in a ceiling mounted pendant.

I figure I can have sliding mounts on the ceiling or a pulley system to raise it up when I need to work in the tank.

 

Now, short of welding, can anyone suggest the best way to join aluminum for the frame?

[Vader]

I like the idea of the aluminum frame skinned with wood trim in a ceiling mounted pendant.

I figure I can have sliding mounts on the ceiling or a pulley system to raise it up when I need to work in the tank.

 

Now, short of welding, can anyone suggest the best way to join aluminum for the frame?

 

You can use rivets/riveting tool to fasten a frame together.

[salmon alley]

You can use rivets/riveting tool to fasten a frame together.

 

hmm, rivets eh? Are riveting tools expensive? Never used one before.

[ctenophore]

Just use lock washers and nylon coated nuts. Actually all I used on my aluminum frame was lock washers. $6 for a 100 of screws, nuts, washers. You can buy aluminum bar and angle stock at HD. I put together my sliding canopy for about $50, but of course I didn't need to face it with wood.

 

[Integral9]

Made mine out of 1"x12" poplar from HD. Measures about 12x48. The entire canopy (all but the bottom inch that's around the tank top) opens up like a clam shell for access to the bulbs. The entire front opens up like a cabinet door for feeding time. I got a bit rushed and didn't make the front door as nice as I would have liked but it works. The hard part wasn't the hood, but building the light and making sure the bulbs were positioned correctly in the reflectors. Focal points are key otherwise the reflector won't do what it's intended to do.

 

for my next canopy, I want to do a rail system where the canopy can slide either forward or backwards to reveal the tank. Changing the bulbs will be done with a clam shell opening from the top of the canopy. This should hide any obvious openings.

 

imo. You change bulbs at most every six months so I wouldn't worry too much about being able to access them. As long as you can get them in and out, it's ok.

 

Also, I really like the aluminum rail design. Easy, light weight and you can skin it with just about anything.... Modular..... MMmmmmmmm :-)

[Vader]

hmm, rivets eh? Are riveting tools expensive? Never used one before.

 

A box of rivets is pretty inexpensive and the riveting tool will be around $15-$25, and you can use ether aluminum or steel rivets. If you don't want to buy one, you can always rent one, any rental will have one.

 

But all you do is clamp the two pieces together, drill your holes and rivet them. When you get a box of rivets, it will tell you what size drill bit to use. It's easy as drinking a beer and the connections are strong.