stevil October 10, 2006 Share October 10, 2006 I've been dripping Kalk for about a month now. 1 gallon a week. I've done 2 gallons of RO/DI and kalk, and 2 gallons where I mixed 30ml of vinegar in with the kalk prior to adding the RO/DI. I'm using the maximum recommended dose - 2 tsp per gallon. I've only seen a moderate rise in my pH, calcium is about the same, and alkalinity is decreasing (all tests attached, rename from .txt to .csv). Should I be dripping more frequently? ReefConWL.txt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoch October 10, 2006 Share October 10, 2006 Actually (and I think I stated it before) 1 Gall / 1 TABLESPOON is saturated not one teaspoon... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller October 10, 2006 Share October 10, 2006 Are you replacing all evaporation with kalk water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevil October 10, 2006 Author Share October 10, 2006 Chip - No, I am not replacing all evaporation with kalk. I have an auto-top-off unit, but didn't want to be overdosing kalk accidentally, so the kalk drip is separate. I need to add about 1-2 gallons of top-off water a day on average. Dave - I guess I missed your advice on the tablespoons v teaspoons. I'm following the directions on my Kent kalk - 1/2-2 tsp per gallon max. So - basically increase the dosage (saturation) and the frequency of addition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller October 10, 2006 Share October 10, 2006 I still go by about 1 tsp per gal is all you really need to mix and settle. Any amount that precips. out just falls to the bottom and soon becomes as usless as TOAWH. You can get it back into solution again, but after a few tries.... forget it. I even change my reactor kalk every 2-3 weeks as it is. To me, it's worth it, and takes little time to do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveoutlaw October 10, 2006 Share October 10, 2006 Steve - I replace all of my evap with kalk mixture. I did the same thing on my 120g without incident. I'd recommend looking into a kalk reactor.......it really is worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeperofthefish October 11, 2006 Share October 11, 2006 I use the poor man's water jug method to drip kalk and go through 1 gallon every two days on a 75. It keeps the pH pinned at around 8.3, and levels are fairly good. I would love a kalk reactor or calcium reactor, but this does the trick for now and I have seen much better coral growth/color since I started with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest snapper October 11, 2006 Share October 11, 2006 Chip - No, I am not replacing all evaporation with kalk. I have an auto-top-off unit, but didn't want to be overdosing kalk accidentally, so the kalk drip is separate. I need to add about 1-2 gallons of top-off water a day on average. Dave - I guess I missed your advice on the tablespoons v teaspoons. I'm following the directions on my Kent kalk - 1/2-2 tsp per gallon max. So - basically increase the dosage (saturation) and the frequency of addition? You'd have to have a monster evap rate to have a kalk integrated top off system overdose the water. My top off runs through a DIY kalk reactor and pumps in about 2-3 gallons a day. Trying to raise/maintain dKh, pH and Ca all with kalk drip is a tough nut to crack. I'd recommend dosing with dry additives mixed with RO water. I'm a big fan of Seachem reef advantatge calcium and reef buffer. The formr maintains Ca and Mg ion count in the right ratio, and the buffer is a great way to immediately reset/set the hardness and pH to the right values. Since most of the nay-sayers on these types of boards like to way in with some sort of misguided passion for how they perfectly maintain their systems, opinions may vary. FWIW, I run a K2R, a Nilsen, and still dose the seachem products to fine tune. The B-Ionic stuff is worthless IMO, too tricky to get it right. Th nice thing about the dry stuff, is, it's mix and pour, and it adjusts things quickly. Good luck Oh, and by the way, post count does not necessarily equal reef smarts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller October 11, 2006 Share October 11, 2006 You'd have to have a monster evap rate to have a kalk integrated top off system overdose the water. My top off runs through a DIY kalk reactor and pumps in about 2-3 gallons a day. Trying to raise/maintain dKh, pH and Ca all with kalk drip is a tough nut to crack. I'd recommend dosing with dry additives mixed with RO water. I'm a big fan of Seachem reef advantatge calcium and reef buffer. The formr maintains Ca and Mg ion count in the right ratio, and the buffer is a great way to immediately reset/set the hardness and pH to the right values. Since most of the nay-sayers on these types of boards like to way in with some sort of misguided passion for how they perfectly maintain their systems, opinions may vary. FWIW, I run a K2R, a Nilsen, and still dose the seachem products to fine tune. The B-Ionic stuff is worthless IMO, too tricky to get it right. Th nice thing about the dry stuff, is, it's mix and pour, and it adjusts things quickly. Good luck Oh, and by the way, post count does not necessarily equal reef smarts. You mention dry additives but what do they do for you and why do you need to add it? Why do we have post counts anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrubberbandman October 11, 2006 Share October 11, 2006 Chip, i dont know if that was thrown out at the veterans on here,but i respect youre ideas and thoughts...whether you have 200 posts or 2000....but i think the dry additives are a easier way to add ingredients to a smaller system.....such as myself with a 20 gallon.......do i really kalk?...who knows....if i added all kalk to cover evap....i think i would have a problem? such small systems have a delicate balance and kalk is a very caustic solution. Bryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerseller October 11, 2006 Share October 11, 2006 Chip, i dont know if that was thrown out at the veterans on here,but i respect youre ideas and thoughts...whether you have 200 posts or 2000....but i think the dry additives are a easier way to add ingredients to a smaller system.....such as myself with a 20 gallon.......do i really kalk?...who knows....if i added all kalk to cover evap....i think i would have a problem? such small systems have a delicate balance and kalk is a very caustic solution. Bryan IMO, Without even knowing what you are caring for in the 20g I can say this. You'd be better than fine by simply doing regular water exchanges with premixed water. 2-3g a week as opposed to 8+ a month, vacuum siphoning all the way out. It's a "constant availability thing" and detritus removal. Can you add kalkwasser for most or all evaporation? not if you add any 2 part additives or even dry chemies mixed up. (unless it's seawater) not if you are a mix and pourer of fresh seawater, better to premix and aerate. (more so for you small guys) Unless you are really really sparse in population I'd say - yes but keep note of PH and susspend if it continually stays much above 8.5 with a calibrated PH probe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrubberbandman October 11, 2006 Share October 11, 2006 Chip, i agree....and for the small guys like myself....WC's are the best....even the bigger tanks with softies do well in this area...like EVE. i only use supplements if 2 things occur....i am to lazy for WC and test results call for adding. Bryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now