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DIY CHILLER


Guest Rileyporter

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Guest Rileyporter

The project has been killed.. Due to the fact that I nicked a small copper tube that was filled with pressurized freon. I tried soldering it back but due to the freon escaping an no way to shut the gas off to repair... ugh...

 

Oh well... and BTW this small compressor was not made to be recharged... :(

 

Dan what you working on?

 

Riley

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I take it this is the Al contsiner you are talking about :lol: .

 

You really need to do a little more research on this, the information is available but, the link you provided is a joke. Yes, I am trying to discourage you a little bit. I would not attempt this project, nor will I give advice that in the end I think will end up destroying the beautiful reef you are trying to create. :(

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Guest Rileyporter

WHen I said the site has provided me some insight... It was just to the fact that this device could produce enough cooling power so that this might actually work. I have no intentions of putting copper, coated or otherwise into my tank. Since the canister that I was hoping to use will not work I am going to have to think of something else.

 

Come one give me some credit... This project completed wont be touching my tank for some time to come!

 

anyhow.. any ideas dan on a alternative to that AL canister?

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anyhow.. any ideas dan on a alternative to that AL canister?

No need.

 

Use the cooling element to chill an amount of water it can handle without burning up the motor. Lets call it a toxic waste vat for all we care. Best to use RO water or maybe something with a stabilizer :)

 

Then put a coil of reef safe flexible tubing(3/8" and 50' should do it) into the cooled water toxic waste vat. Send reef tank water through the coil direct from sump back to sump. Reef water never touches toxic waste, but gets cooled.

 

fwiw: the reason the mini fridges are typically bad ideas: air's heat exchange properties are not nearly as efficient as water. Cool a standing amount of water directly with the cooling coils and the whole thermodynamic property changes in the reefers favor.

 

Good luck.

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Guest Rileyporter

No need.

 

Use the cooling element to chill an amount of water it can handle without burning up the motor. Lets call it a toxic waste vat for all we care. Best to use RO water or maybe something with a stabilizer :)

 

Then put a coil of reef safe flexible tubing(3/8" and 50' should do it) into the cooled water toxic waste vat. Send reef tank water through the coil direct from sump back to sump. Reef water never touches toxic waste, but gets cooled.

 

fwiw: the reason the mini fridges are typically bad ideas: air's heat exchange properties are not nearly as efficient as water. Cool a standing amount of water directly with the cooling coils and the whole thermodynamic property changes in the reefers favor.

 

Good luck.

 

wow... yah... I think i was over thinking that a bit. The only problem i see directly is being able to remove the coil without breaking the cooling line.. but to be able to put a tube over the coil I will have to cut the coil and slip it over. Question.. Can i cut the coil without coolant going everywhere? and then seem it back together?

 

thanks.

 

Riley

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wow... yah... I think i was over thinking that a bit. The only problem i see directly is being able to remove the coil without breaking the cooling line.. but to be able to put a tube over the coil I will have to cut the coil and slip it over. Question.. Can i cut the coil without coolant going everywhere? and then seem it back together?

Don't cut the coil, refill and repair is more trouble then buying a Reef Chiller. Some can be bent a bit without damage, though.

 

fwiw: I would submerse the cooling coil and the seemingly attached silver bucket in an old Coleman style cooler. Run my tank water line(coiled) through the side wall or lid. Fill cooler with water. Close lid(modified with small holes if necessary). Make sure plenty of air flow is available on the hotside.

 

Good luck :)

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