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madmax7774

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Posts posted by madmax7774

  1. My tank starts the morning off at 79.9F by dinner time, it is usually, up around 82.5F and occasionally has climbed to 83.5F My question is, how much of a swing over th course of the day is too much?

    I already have a fan on on my aquacontroller that kicks in when the temp hits 80.8F so the fan is on for a good portion of the day. I am reluctant to spend $800 for a chiller if I can avoid it, but I will if I have to. what does everyone else see in their tanks on a daily basis?

    John

  2. I recently bought an Aquacontroller Jr from BRK, and I love it. I bought it so I could control a kalk stirrer/ top off setup for my system, but I switched my lights over to it, and a fan as well. It is worth every penny in my opinion. I originally started my setup with simple cheap light timers, and for my 4 powerheads, I used a red seas wavemaster pro. THey worked fine for me, but I needed a ph controller, they are almost $200 so figured I may as well go the extra $100 and get the aquacontroller setup. They are simple to program, and easy to use. I highly recommend them.

    John

    :)

  3. 600 gph rating for a return is super conservative. I have a genX6000 on my return which is rated at 600 gph I am getting closer to 1000gph from my return. Works fine. Go with the bigger pump, you will not sorry.

    John

  4. I got my cleanup crew for my 110G from Johnny at BRK, and I could not have been happier. His wealth of knowledge is invaluable, and you can be sure of the quality of the livestock there. His prices are very competative, and in my opinion, his shop is the best around.

    John

  5. my real problem is that my RO water sits on a 4 ft high shelf about 10ft away from the tank, and the kalkwasser will be sitting on the ground. I am pretty sure that once I start the pump to feed the kalkwasser, it will work fine, but when the cotroller goes to turn off the kalkwasser pump, it will siphon the RO water, and I have a disaster on my hands. I can't think of a way to stop the siphon action. Putting the RO tank of the floor is not an option at this time. I am stumped on this one....

    :(

  6. I have a situation with my setup that would make it much easier for me if I could just use a small powerhead to draw saltwater from the sump, and feed it through a kalkwasser back into the sump, instead of using RO top off water as the water source. Is there any reason why I should not do this? does the water going into the kalkwassser have to be RO water only? can I use saltwater from the sump to introduce the kalk into the system? I am not worried about overdosing kalk, as I have an aquacontroller and could set that up to monitor PH and stop the kalk system if the PH starts to rise.

    :bluefish:

  7. I think you'd have to get palytoxin directly into your bloodstream before it becomes and issue, and I don't think that would happen from what you describe. Also, palytoxin symptons begin with numbness from what I have read. Sounds like you not panic unless you experience numbness, loss of sensation or diziness/lightheadedness. Either way, tell someone what you were doing so if you get really bad before you can explain to a doctor, someone has an idea of what you up to.

  8. 2 comments on your plan.

     

    1 - Definately get a bigger skimmer. Get the biggest one you can afford, you will thank yourself later. There is no such thing as overskimming. Especially when you are new to the hobby, and you are likely to make more mistakes, it is helpful to have a powerful skimmer.

    2 - Remember the 4 most important words in this hobby. Regularly Scheduled water changes

     

    Disclaimer: These are my opinions, and I swear by them.

    John

  9. contact Jeff (Naga) he is an acrylic guy, and could likely custom build you a sealable acrylic tank to do what you are looking for. I would not attempt any sort of tank without a lid in a moving vehicle. I would also have a way to attach the tank firmly to a countertop or something, as 1 small fender bender, or 1 bad pothole, and you are going to have a mess when the tank goes flying...

    John

    :cheers:

  10. I used to have this exact unit, on my very first tank (30G hex). When I had mine, it came with a coralife 150W 20,000K HQI bulb in it. They now come with 14,000K bulbs. (better in my opinion). At the time I owned mine, it was told to me buy the owner of Centreville Aquariums that **only coralife brand HQI bulbs will work** in this light. I don't know that I believe that, but I never tried another bulb.

    By the way, if the one you bought came with a small blue LED moonlight attached to the mounting arm, then you bought my old one! As fas as trying other HQI bulbs, I would contact Johnny@BRK, he can get you whatever bulb you need at a good price.

    Running your light 10 hours a day, My guess is the light should theoretically last you at least 6 to 9 months before you should think about replacement

    John

  11. You know that says something for Instant Ocean brand salt. If the GA aquarium is using it, then it must be decent. Those guys are one seriously dedicated crew, and they research things to within an inch of it's life. So if they are using it, then....

  12. I saw this thread on another Forum, and I decided to rip it off and claim it as my own... :biggrin:

    it was fun to read there, so why not try it here...

     

     

    So last weekend I went to the LFS and I spent $150 on 2 fish and 1 large coral. On average I can't seem to get out the door for less than $60

    This does not include the times I am buying hardware, just live goods.

    what about you guys?

  13. is the bleaching spreading?, or is it staying localized to one area? if it has stopped spreading, then you may be ok, and hopefully the bleached part will grow back in time. If it still spreading, then you might try to have someone else with exceptional water quality and lighting, hold on to the coral for a few months to let it recuperate.

    Just a thought.

    John

    :cheers:

  14. I have shopped there occasionally. Melissa does tend to treat customers well. One of the other guys irritates me, but it's more of a personality conflict I think. Their hardware prices are a bit high. Livestock has been hit or miss for me.

    John

    :cheers:

  15. A computer UPS puts out 110V AC just like a wall socket. My initial thought is that there shouldn't be a problem with heaters and powerheads and such, but hey you never know...

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