madmax7774
-
Posts
750 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Posts posted by madmax7774
-
-
Several Days ago, I stumbled onto a website of a hobbyist who was culturing his own phytoplankton. I have to say I am intrigued by this idea, and thinking of giving it a go. Does anyone in the club do this, an if so, what did you use to start the initial batch? I read on Melev's website that "supposedly" you can start a batch with some DT's. What have other used, and how have your results been?
John
-
Carla, i know how you feel, several weeks back I turned on my kalk stirrir and forgot to shut it off. i left for the day to Maryland. When I cam home, it looked like a nuclear winter in my tank. I lost a several hundred dollar fish, and nearly beat myself to death over it. You will get past this, and you will be wiser for it in the long run. When you have things back under control, you are welcome to some free frags from my tank to get you back on track.
John
-
George and Jess,
It was great to get out and see you guys. The tanks are amazing. I am really impressed with them. Thanks for the frag, I have placed it in my tank. Under my actinics, it is an amazing mix of green and red. Was that thing some sort of Watermelon type of monti? I've never seen anything like it before. In any event, It looks amazing.
I will shoot some pictures of it, once it encrusts and starts to grow out.
PS - poker soon!
-
I usually just brak the frag off the plug, and use epoxy to affix the frag to something in the tank...
-
Jason,
If the house was built within the 25 years, and is up to code, you can drive a large truck into the middle of the room without worrying. A 75G tank and sump is no where near enough weight to get concerned about. If your parents are giving you grief over this, tell them it is no different than the average queen sized water bed. today's houses are way over engineered, and are much stronger than people realize. (thanks to overzealous lawyer's, lawsuits....). The biggest risk is from unintended floods. I personally would not have a tank anywhere where there wasn't a drain nearby in the floor.
Insurance issues will vary depending on your company, you need to contact them to find out what they offer.
John
-
You know I am going to tell sean about this, and I may even pay him to bring you twinkies and those gay little pink and yellow easter things you love so much....
-
yeah, like you did with the Ice water bucket?
hahaha
-
so short of having a medical facility with a submersion tank that can be used to calculate exact body fat percentage, how exactly do you propose to accurately determine body fat precentage for each participant?
-
Well duh, as the fattest guy in the club, I would be interested....
We have a very accurate scale here at work, that goes up to 400 lbs, and is supposedly accurate to within .1 lbs. It is used for weighing outgoing shipments. I just weighed myself on it, and I come in at a whopping 320.5 lbs. With relative ease, I could get back down to my average weight of about 280 lbs. That means a % weight loss of 12.5 percent. Think you can beat that?
questions:
1 - what scale is going to be used?
2 - how exactly will things be calculated?
3 - Does Johnny know you are giving more of his stuff away
4 - when does the contest start?
-
Rebecca,
Sorry I haven't responded sooner, I have been off the boards lately. The aqualifter pump will NOT stop a syphon when in the off state. I found this out the hard way. I had to add a John Guest style "T" fitting on the output side of my pump, and run a line up into the air about 5 feet. What this does is act as a siphon break so that when the pump stops, air can be drawn into the line, ans break the syphon. The trick is to make sure that the siphon break line is long enough to prevent water from spilling out. I just ran mine all the way up to the cieling. I know this probably makes no sense, but I can explain more if you need it. If you are still confused, PM me, and I can stop over one evening, and help you get it all working for you. (I don't mind stopping over, It's a great excuse to see your tank!). As far as your AC programming, I have not found an easy way to dump the whole program to a file yet, so it's probably quicker to just scroll through the timer programs and write them down by hand.(I have an AC jr, so it's computer connectivity is limited.)
-
I have a 125G system, and am probably going to have to invest in a chiller. I need to know which brands suck, and which ones are good. my temp goes to 84 lately, and I dont want that. I need to drop 4 degrees on a 125g. what do you recommend? (already running lots of fans, so that isn't going to cut it.) This chiller will be remotely located in the laundry room about 10ft away, and will require some waterlines and some sort of pump.
a drop in is not an option.
John
-
Rebecca,
I had the exact same problem with my aquacontroller when I set mine up a few weeks ago, and I posted about it here:
http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?show...mp;#entry116465
The guys above are correct about the problem, but there are 2 parts to fixing this problem. I went out of my mind tying to figure it out. The easiest way to fix this, (what I did) is to:
(1)plug a grounded extension cord with several plugs on one end(think of the 6' white ones that many people use to plug in several strings of christmas lights...), from A4 on the DC8. Into the other end of the extension cord, you need to plug both the aqualifter pump, and a nightlight or small lamp of somekind. That way, when the aqualifter turns on, the light does too, and both items together draw enough current for the aquacontroller to work properly.
(2)The second half of this issue,that the aquacontroller's have with the float switch, is called "hysteresis". You will probably run into that too. ( I did) Basically you have to tell the aquacontroller that once the float switch is in the off position, it is not allowed to turn back on for a few minutes (I use 10 minutes). If you don't add this, you will switch will very rapidly go on,off,on,off,on,off,on,off..... and it will keep doing this. The effect of this is that the aqualifter pump will 'seem' like it is staying on, which will further complicate and confuse things. I didn't even realize this was happening to me until I plugged in the nightlight, and saw that it was flashing on,off,on,off....
The code for this is
max change 10M then H20 OFF
this statement can be added anywhere in the programming. You can change the time in minutes to whatever you like. I started with 240M ( 4hours) but quickly realized that was too long. I settled on 10M and it works great now. I hope that my explanation is clear. If I have confused you more PM me, and I will call you and walk you through it.
John
-
OK, the problem and solution has been found. The problem was the voltage on the aqualifter pump is too low for the ac jr. to make it work, I added a powerstrip with a nightlight to the circuit. this increases the load when the port turns on, and allows the ac jr. to be able to turn it off. Bizarre I know, but it works, so I'll take it...
John
-
ok, maybe not. The program and the port work with a lamp plugged in, but when I use the aqualifter pump on the extension cord, it stays on. Here's where it gets really interesting. When I use manual control to turn the port off, it still stays on!!! I am starting to think I am cursed. I ran the diagnostic self test, and everything came back ok. I am lost on this one....
-
nice looking stuff Dan.
John
-
OK, I finally figured it out (nearly lost my mind in the process, and seriously considered shooting the aquacontroller!). I had the program right, but I was missing one key concept. The aquacontroller was sensing the ph and float switch state rapidly. The problem was that the controller would turn the aqualifter on/off very rapidly. The end result was that it looked like it was always on. There was a "hysterisis" setting that says don't do that. I added that in, and set it so that if goes on, and then off, it must wait 4 hours before I t can go on again. the code is
max change 240 M then KLK OFF
thanks to Dan & John for your help
John
-
I have added a Grey seas aquatics kalkwasser (shameless plug for Dan!) to my setup, and I can't get my aquacontoller to behave. It turns on fine when the float switch is low, and if the PH is below 8.4, but nothing I do shuts it off.
I have a PH probe, and a float switch. the float switch is wired into the serial port per the instruction manual, and it seems to work OK, by itself.
my code:
OSC 002/001 ON/OFF then KLK ON
if PH > 8.4 then KLK OFF
if switch OPEN the KLK OFF
I have tried numerous variations, of this code, but no matter how I change it, it never shuts off the aqualifter pump. I thought it could be the fact that the aqualifter is about 12 ft. away, on an extension cord, but I tried plugging a lamp in it's place to have it turn the lamp on and off, but it stills doesn't function.
I think it has to be a code problem, but I can't find the problem. I can list the whole program, if it helps...
John
-
goto Blue ribbon koi $5.99 /lb fiji, and it's decent quality
John
-
one of them is mine too!
They look great dan!
-
ummm. Lovely. I have quite a large patch of these bad boys in my tank. Or at least they appear to be the same thing. I guess as long as I leave them alone, all should be well.
Note to self: no boiling the rocks....
-
seen chip's tank in person. He runs UV 24/7. has nothing wrong with his tank, in fact it's one of the best tanks I seen in a while.
-
I realize you aren't feeling well, but when you are feeling motivated, could you snap a picture of the offending zoas so I can have a look at them? I am curious as to what they look like.
John
-
I also got one of these pyramids from BRK, and mine is doing fantastic. (knock on wood). I know that BRK keeps their fish in hypo salinity while they are there. You guys acclimated right?
John
-
good idea, I added the code to turn the halides off if the temp>84F
I am going to have to address the cooling situation thought. I guess I will I try an additional fan over the sump
RBTA has split!! how to question...
in General Discussion
Well, my prized "chip's RBTA" has split, and is doing very well. The old one has moved around to the front of the tank where I can see him (finally!), and the new one is still on the backside of my rock tower. I have promised one of the colonies to a good friend, but I have absolutely no idea how to convince it to let go of the rock so I can move him to his new home. Does anyone have any experience with this? I want to be very careful with this anenome, as I want to make sure I do not injure it while detaching it. Any pointers would be helpful.
Thanks,
John