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dhogan

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Posts posted by dhogan

  1. any luck?? I think the box in the corner of the tank is going to be my best bet.. or I may just do a 90 elbow, that would work right??

    I think you could still use the method I have, the T part would be outside, and the downward elbow would be inside, don't know if that makes sense. I looked briefly, but did not see anyhting like what you are doing. All the internal overflows i saw were taking up top to bottom.

  2. Okay - time to fess up, I guess. I just wasn't thinking - I made the dividers too tall. One result of that was that the filter sock is completely submerged when it's in the filter sock holder.

     

    IMG_0857.jpg

     

    So the water is not forced to go through the sock - it just kind of goes into the top of the sock - and wherever else it wants to go. I'm afraid it will only trap heavy debris until I move it higher.

     

    bob

    I cut out a piece of plywood to raise mine, you may want to try that.

  3. I see how you used the durso standpipe on the external overflow, how would I do that if I drill?? still a little confused as to how it works.

    That's a disadavantage to the internal overflow, but you could probably do something similar. Maybe have the t part (air tubing) on the outside of the tank. Not sure how this would work though, I'd do a search on RC.

  4. I found out that david (dschifler) drills tanks for people and sells the bulkheads so i'm going to take my tank there this week. Dan is doing my sump baffles this week (he new tank is amazing go see it) so hopefully i'll be ready to do the plumbing next weekend and start the tank up next week.

     

    Wasaga I really liked your idea of the small box in the corner so once i get the tank drill I think that is what i'm going to do. That way I won't have too much overflow to my sump which is a big factor for me since my sump is only 10 gal and my water level will be higher. What is a standpipe?? Noise is a big issue.

     

    still havn't heard back from my question about the lights... what times to run what.

    Check out my build thread, I use a Durso standpipe in my overlow to keep noise down, there are many different variations of it, mine seems to work pretty good.

  5. Can't he avoid this just by setting the water level in the return section of the sump at only a couple of inches above the pump? From the looks of the pictures, that would give the water a good 6-8" to rise in that section before it got above the overflow baffles, and then it would have another 2" to rise before it overflowed the sump. Granted, this would lead to noise and microbubble issues with that much of a drop going into the return section, but it should avoid a flood if other methods are also employed to reduce the amount of back siphon and overflow drain.

    He could do that, but as you mentioned it will lead to microbubbles, and he will have to fill tank up with evaporation water more often (unless he plans to use ATO).

  6. no i mean I ordered my presents straight from the shop :)

     

    small update, Dan is going to baffle my sump for me and he told me that dshifler drills tanks so i'm going to get in touch with him to see if I can go that route. I like an overflow box but space is rapidly becoming an issue so the more I can conserve the better. I will get pictures of everything this weekend.

    Why not go with an external overflow? Not too difficult to build.

  7. Most starfish are scavengers. How do you know that the spot on the SPS was not dead before the starfish decided to make a meal out of it?

    I don't know for sure, but I've read about the predatory asterinas, and I guess I'd rather be safe than sorry.

  8. Great thanks. I think I'll go with the built one.

     

    What about the pump? Any I have no idea if I'd need a big mag pump or a small power head. It's going up about 6 - 8 feet from my reserve tank, through the ceiling about 25 feet and then down to the sump.

    Check out the osmolator, comes with a pump. It uses a laser eye to check water level, and it has a mechanical valve for a backup.

  9. Jason:

     

    When I ran a Remora, I tried both the MJ1200 and the Mag3, and the difference was huge, I thought. If you think about how it works, you realize you really need a pump that can handle the pressure.

     

    Maybe you could camouflage the surface skimmer box with a zoa garden or some nice encrusting montis?

    I'm using the MJ-1200 on mine, seems to be working pretty well, but I don't have anything to compare it to.

  10. Thank you Bob.

     

    Nothing is ever trash until there's no way to fix it or to recycle it. Just like mine, the world's resources are not endless.

    I recently built a tank to hold my kalkwasser in it, just sheets of glass that I cut myself (can be seen in my build thread). I did not bother to tape the corners because it wasn't a show tank, but the seams still look very good. It's not very hard to reseal a tank, I would just follow Bob's instructions as that is the best way to do it.

  11. Update

     

    Okay I added some more livestock. One is a fish, a Yellow Watchman Goby, that is not coming out, he's hiding in the back under a rock at the moment. And one frag...

     

    I'm by no means a good photographer....

     

    100_0408.JPG

     

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    My two clownies

     

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    Some FTS with the doors on, I need to order the knobs for the doors/drawer...

     

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    And a picture of the guts...

     

    100_0418.JPG

  12. Update

     

    I've been busy busy busy busy!!! But I've been working on my tank still. I finished building a little custom made water storage out of some left over glass. I cut it and siliconed it up, meant to take pictures out of the stand, but its too late now.

     

    I will build a top, and put kalk in the storage container - there is a pump that will mix up the kalk to keep it stirred. The osmolator will dose the kalk water, and the storage tank holds about 3 gallons of water to the rim of it.

     

    100_0404.JPG

     

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    And here is the most recent FTS, with 3 corals that were added, one seems to be badly bleached and probably won't make it. UPS lost the package, so it was lost for a day. I haven't put the doors on yet, but once i do I'll take some pictures of everything...just shows that what's in it is more important.

     

    100_0401.JPG

     

    So if anyone wants to give me a bunch of frags to fill up my tank let me know! :biggrin:

  13. I ordered from Mr. Coral, and well UPS messed up, the box was lost or something, not Mr. Coral's fault. One of my frags is very bleached at the base, but two of the tips are still colored. Should I just hope that it colors back? Or is it gone for good? Should I try to frag it? What do you recommend? Please advise.

  14. Prices are tempting but this is a prime example of what cost cutting leads to. The easiest way to make a tank (or anything else for that matter) cheap is to use thinner material, exploit foreign labor and put a shop in the middle of BF Tennessee. I am seriously appalled by this mentality. But hey they do give you a 90 day warranty so thats got to be standing behind your products right? lol Buy it right the first time or twice and a wet vac.

    exploit foreign labor?

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