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nextlevel808

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Posts posted by nextlevel808

  1. Are you treating in your DT or a separate hospital tank (HT)? From your description of rock and sand it sounds like you are treating your DT. I would highly recommend getting a separate tank for treatment. The fish will be treated for ~30days, but copper only kills the free swimming phase of Ich. Ich can live in cyst form in some cases for 72 days. So typically you remove the fish and treat in a separate tank. You would also leave the tank w/o fish for those 72 days so that the remaining Ich dies off. Without this, you can reinfect your fish when you reintroduce them into the tank or remove the copper in the same tank. Also, you need to dedicate equipment for the HT to avoid cross contamination.

     

    What size tank do you have? You should know the actual water volume for dosing. Following the Cupramine instructions will put you right at 0.5 mg/L on your second dose. The correct dosage is 1mL/10.5 gallons. 

     

    You need to be careful with any copper source as you can kill your fish. What test kit are you using? I would recommend you use the Seachem Copper test kit. Not all copper tests will work with cupramine. The Seachem kit also has a reference you can test against to try and match the color.

     

    Do you have any carbon or other media (e.g. purigen)? These will remove the copper. I have used a little rock in my QT and treated with cupramine. IME the biological filter wasn't killed off, but I'm sure it took a small hit during treatment. That rock is dedicated for my QT and never placed back in my tank. I have never treated with sand in the tank.

     

    How many and what size fish do you have?

     

    Yes tank I’m treating is actually my main tank. I removed all corals and inverts a few months back when dosed cupramine for first time. Tank is 240g with 125g sump 300g of water. Test kit I’ve been using is Seachem. Reason I’m treating in main tank is because I don’t have a big enough qt tank for all my fish as I have 4 bigger tangs alone and 10 fish total. At this point I don’t care if I can hold corals in the tank again as more worried about my fish as have few higher end or harder to find fish. I have a small coral tank if need for that. As far as carbon or other media filters I have removed all carbon and cuprisorb I was running from treatment few months ago as need to treat again. Skimmer and uv are both off. Only thing I have besides powerhead and heater running is an air pump to help with depleted O2 and filter socks.

  2. I could really use some advice. Ok I tested copper 3-4 days ago and it was at .2ppm since then I added 20mls (1ml per 10g) twice. I've been adding an extra 10ml each time for rock and sand. So technically I should be at around .4ppm now as I've done 4 doses of 20ml. But today when I tested I'm still at .2ppm . Now would my air pump be precipitating the copper out or would rock and sand be absorbing it all? I don't understand where that last 40mls went. That's also probably why the ich is still present on fish and reason it's still in my system. I bet it never reached a treatment zone level of .35-.5ppm the first time I treated my big tank a few months ago. I added another 25mls today and I'll probably test again this afternoon when I wake up. What are other people’s thoughts on where that last 40mls went?

  3. I have one that I’m done with and you can have. I live in Manassas but will be working till 11 AM Saturday in Bethesda.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Can I please meet up with you on Saturday morning? I will even pay you for the issue.

  4. Does anyone have a copy of this months Coral magazine I could buy or know somewhere I can get this months. I have tried all book stores in the area and no one carries it. Please help me out as it’s on a topic I’m looking to venture into. Thanks.

  5. Come on really with all the experts on here no one is willing to help try and save a fish? This is pretty much the exact reason I let my paid membership run out because unless your a select few no one is willing to help out. Sorry I figured since this is a local reefing and saltwater forum I would get some help. Sorry to post my frustration but in the end I'm only trying to save the fish as I don't have a qt tank setup or if did wouldn't know where or how to start. I don't know enough about parasites or diseases to know what I'm dealing with.

  6. I have a 6" foxface I've had for 2.5 years. I added a new fish about 2 months ago from a recommended dealer that says they qt the fish before sells. Since then my foxface I have not personally seen my foxface eat which it use to devour food. It has to be eating because it's lasted the last 2 months. It seems to show signs of maybe ich or white spots. Also now has scratched up nose and mouth area and really at times almost seems blind. I really have no clue what is going on with it but looking for someone with a setup QT tank as I don't have one. I would be will to give fish away if someone would take the time and try and treat and make fish happy again. Please message me if your interested. Thanks in advance and sorry I will not mention the dealer though.

  7. I can't believe Rob forgot the one ingredient that adds a little something extra to the recipe........You need to Pee in the tank to get it cycling!!!!! :laugh:

     

    Haha so true that was his advice when he did my plumbing for new build.

  8. "Black boxes" are on tons of tanks and seem to do well. SBReef has a slightly upgraded version in regard to the spectrum he uses for not much more money. I'm running a pair over my tank but it is way to early to say if they're acceptable or not (no issues thus far). Fit and finish sucks but they're working as advertised. Another member here mentioned the T247s were working well for him and they're fairly cheap as well.

    Wow someone else that's heard of SBReef lights.

  9. Better find out how bad leak is first. Only good thing is all the copper piping should be in chiller so not like finding leak in your house. Whether or not you can access the spot where the pipe is would be another thing. And like mentioned above would have to find what refrigerant and oil the manufacture uses. Then depending on which one could be costly.

  10. That mans face and voice annoys me. Lol.

     

    Ya theirs another one flip something. One side is velcrow like a reg mag cleaner and you take the outside end off it flips now you got a blade for scraping.

     

    its called the Flipper but think the tunze is better. Ive heard a lot of mixed reviews for the flipper.

  11. Ive been using the algae free magnet cleaner for a while but saw this few weeks ago and wanted to try it out. Might make getting closer to sand easier but not sure if I would still just use razor blade by hand by sand bed or not even with the tunze saying it would catch as much sand. 

  12. I have a high powered laser. While it will zap Aiptasia, you have to be line-of-sight with them and anything that they may retract back into in order to really get them. They are also dangerous as they can cause retinal damage (blind you) in under a millisecond. I treat mine as a gun so it's kept away from kids and inquisitive eyes. I also keep the batteries out of it unless I need it. Biological control (which seeks and destroys, even in the places you can't see), in my opinion is a much better option or, if you can see them and get at them any number of other products will work including:

     

    kalk paste (e.g. Joe's Juice, Aiptasia X)

    lemon juice or vinegar (inject them with a hypodermic needle)

    Majano Wand (electric current)

     

    I've tried Joes juice and aiptasia X and with both products they seem to go away for a week or so then come back. I even tried a copperband which ate them all then started eating lrs frozen food and now won't touch aiptasia anymore and they grow back once they stop eating them. I also have a Niger trigger so peppermint shrimp are out. I have heard stories of if you don't get whole thing with laser they will just spread.

  13. That's a great idea with the buying tanks just for glass. As I paid a lot for my baffles with smooth edges. Now given it was 3/8" thick but wasn't cheap.

     

     

    I'm always wanting to mess with tanks, drill them, make my own overflows and baffles, strip the sealant and re-do it, take apart old tanks for the glass, etc.

     

    Oh, if you need glass for a project, getting a tank during that sale might be a cheaper way of getting glass. I bought a couple 10gs during one of those sales, just so I could take them apart.

     

  14. I like it a lot, very clean install. why so many dosing containers?

     

    On my old system I just upgraded to this I was dosing brs 2 part, vodka and vinegar, this one I'm not sure yet as there is no coral but I might do 2 part plus few extra trace elements but I'll figure that out down the road and once I start test them all.

  15. Here is a few pictures from my new build. New just need to get my second eb8 working and figure out how to dial in my skimmer so I can use both pumps. I want to say thank you to a few members that have helped me in my build so a thank you to Ron W., Alan M., and Rob. Hope you all enjoy the build as its been a 4 month process and my old tank crashed in meantime so I now get to restart with all new coral.

     

    http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/Joseph_Quick/profile/

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