burton2090

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You're right. The (unofficial) recommended dose is 1mL/10 gallons. I'll probably up the dosage a little bit. And yes, I noticed one of my zoa colonies is less than thrilled. Yet the other colonies are fine.

Update: I dosed the usual 12mL last night after the lights went out and didn't observe any abnormal pH readings this morning. So I'm not sure the H2O2 caused the drop... Rob, you're right. I am dosing to clear the water column and combat some dense patches of GHA. Yes I understand H2O2 is a band-aid and does not solve the root cause of the algae, which I attribute to a period of excessive overfeeding while I was away on a trip. I have since corrected that. Conventional wisdom demands a slow-and-steady approach during the first year to allow the tank to "find" itself. Having said that, H2O2 (and the extra O2 it adds to the water) doesn't seem to affect anything in the system other than nuisance algae so I decided to experiment. Thanks all for the input.

Is there correlation between hydrogen peroxide and pH? Or is it a secondary effect as the H2O2 kills algae? Some background info. I have a 165-gallon DT (200g total volume) that is 5 months old. According to my Apex (see enclosed screen shot): - lowest daily pH reading (8.06-8.11) occurs at 8am. (just before the refugium light turns on and 2.5 hours before the display lights turn on). - highest daily pH reading (8.35-8.39) occurs at 6pm (end of the photoperiod). Notice the pH drop this morning. For the past two nights I have dosed 12mL of hydrogen peroxide. This morning I noticed something interesting. At 8am my pH was 8.27. At 8:45 it dropped to 8.05. I also dose 30mL Alk daily (5 mL every 3hrs) but the effect on pH is negligible. 10% WC on Sunday (explains the abnormal pH swing for March 1) Interested in your thoughts.

These are long overdue but here is a snapshot of my plumbing and sump area. Rob (zygote2k) is the primary architect.

This is a good sanity check and, to the extent you fine reefers represent an accurate cross section of the community, your opinions confirm my research. My concern is that this employee is an apparent expert and he assured me this procedure is necessary. With so many challenges and pitfalls in this hobby as it is, having to filter good advice from bad can be overwhelming.

Thanks all for the input. And no, he unambiguously said all bristle worms. Rob is a good man although he keeps pushing me to pee in the tank...

An employee at a local LFS recently told me I should remove all of my LR from my DT and let it cook for 2-3 weeks so that all of the bristle worms die off. His reasoning is if I continue to let the population multiply in my tank at some point they will prey on invertebrates or even smaller fish. No sign of either fireworms or eunicids. This advice seems counter to 99% of what I found in my own research and it will surely shock my system for some time. LR and LS came from a very established tank thanks to zygote (Rob). After letting the rock and sand cure in brutes with water and good circulation I added it to the DT. My tank has been running for over three months. He also told me to remove my bicolor blenny as it will harass most other smaller fish I eventually add to the tank. I attempted to add a baby hippo tang I purchased from that LFS this weekend and it survived 2 days. I found the corpse last night in a ball of worms. He accused the bicolor blenny of scaring the hippo to death. I also have two ocellaris clowns (still figuring out who is boss), a red brittle sea star, 5 peppermints and a skunk cleaner. What do you think? -Nick

Thanks for the leads, I'll run them down accordingly. Rob, do you troll these forums for reviews? You found it so fast.

Greetings WAMAS, wondering if anyone in the local area would be able to build a custom overflow weir box for me. I have a center overflow (14" x 6 5/16") in my rimless cube but it tops out 2.25" below the top euro bracing. As you know the water level can only go as high as the top of the overflow so the water level in my tank would be 2.25" below the top of the tank. To remedy this I would like to add a weir box (with cover) over the top of the overflow box raising the water level by one inch and then have one inch teeth. I would want it to sit on top of the existing overflow walls with some bracing along the inside side walls. I would like the material to be black acrylic. The existing overflow is tempered acrylic glass 3/16" thick. As an aside, Rob (zygote2k) has been an enormous help with my initial build and plumbing and I would recommend his services to anyone. Rob's professionalism and love for the hobby make him a true gem to the local community. I have a 165-gallon cube and I'll start a build thread in the coming weeks. Looking forward to meeting some of you at the next meeting. Nick