WheresTheReef
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Posts posted by WheresTheReef
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Looking good!
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Just sharing this reef builders’ article on fairly aggressive legislation aimed against the hobby.
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I agree with all statements and don’t take the use of any antibiotic, not just in the hobby, lightly. I have tried to keep things as consistent as possible (parameters, flow, lighting, water changes etc). This truly is a Hail Mary at stopping this downhill swing for the tank.
Other than coral additions the only other changes include:
- 11/24 added 2” yellow candy hogfish, which I haven’t seen pick on any corals
- 12/3 swapped out 10lbs of Marco rock for 25lbs Carib-sea life rock (connected tank)
- 12/17 added small Redfin Fairy Wrasse and one small Bimac Anthias
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I got a 500mg tablet of cipro from a friend. I’m going to dose 3x based on this.
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31 minutes ago, ReefdUp said:
Do you have a full tank shot? Better yet, can you number the locations on the image, in the chronological order in which the corals started dying?
120g left side
120g right side
Just noticed this asterina on this torch where it has issues
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Thanks for the info. It is difficult to see this happening.
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I have not tried MB7.
I have been monitoring at different times of the day (lights on and off) for anything eating them. I haven't seen anything yet, but was wondering that as well. I haven't seen any eggs at the base of the corals either.
I'd be interested in any info/guidance.
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PO4 is 0.04 (Hanna checker) as of a couple weeks back. The range for this year is 0.04-0.08. I ordered a Nitrate Hanna checker, but it doesn’t get here until Saturday. I don’t anticipate it will be elevated.
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Trying to see if anyone has any ideas I can try to help solve the recession and loss of various Euphyllia/Fimbriaphyllia. My tank is over 90% of these types of corals so I really need to figure this out.
My water parameters have been mostly stable. Alkalinity has been the one parameter that has lowered slowly over time, but not by much.
Alk: 8.5 dkh (used to run 9+, but slowly declined to 8dkh from 4/24 to 10/30. I dosed soda ash slowly to get it back to 8.5dkh over the last 2 weeks)
Ca: 350-375 ppm
Mg: 1200-1230ppm
Sg: 1.025
Temp 76.5-77.5 controlled by apex
Lighting and flow hasn't changed.
I have an ICP test that I will be sending out tomorrow. I perform 10% weekly water changes with the occasional skipped water change. I started running carbon again after today's water change. I used to run it monthly, but haven't changed it out in a couple months.
I dip the corals in CoralRx and no pests have ever been seen.
This all may be related to a BJD issue. Here is some chronological info.
I received a coral from an online vendor on 11/21. The tissue of the corners was a little receded over the skeletal lip. On 11/23 I noticed this brown string coming from that spot.
This is the next morning on 11/24. I ended up removing some tissue, dipping in peroxide and supergluing that part. However the issue returned on 11/30 so I trashed the coral.
On 12/5 I noticed one head of my yellow octospawn was a little closed.
On 12/8 I noticed the head was mostly gone, but some tissue remained at the base. The next day, the splitting head on the right was showing stress so I cut that section out and trashed it.
On 12/19 I noticed these 2 hammers. I trashed the single head and removed/trashed the heads with issues on the other.
Since then, I have noticed another octospawn with receded base tissue and a couple other torches showing some issues. Today I noticed this base tissue damage to this torch that had been doing well as you can see.
Please let me know if you have seen this type of issue before, and if there was anything you tried to solve it.
I'm happy to provide any additional info.
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Can you post a picture? Most can be cut with a Dremel and a diamond coated cutting wheel. If so, I might be able to help. I'm in Gaithersburg 20879.
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I have recently experienced two issues with my APEX EL after two separate short power disruptions. In each case, the power turned off for no more than a couple seconds and then turned back on.
The first time this happened, the control of an EB8 was lost. All devices were no longer controllable and the outlets turned off. I tried various things, but the only thing that worked was to delete the EB8 module, add it back in and then reprogram all the outlets.
The second incident is more severe. The outlets went out on my EB832. The device still communicates and all lights are normal. However, the outlets no longer provide any power via the relays. This appears to be a common issue if you search online.
I'm currently using cheap power strips with little to no surge protection. I am planning to switch to a good UPS power supply. This will also allow me to implement a battery backup similar to this. https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-4-power-monitoring.698/
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Welcome to WAMAS
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Glad it's coming along. I do have a question. I noticed that the return lines are well below the water surface. Do you have siphon break holes in them, or have a check valve? Curious if you've tested cutting power to the return pump and ensuring your sump can handle the water backflow.
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We'll have our cash ready for when you return
. Best of luck with everything!
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Life happens. Someone will be getting a good start from this!
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Glad the tank is well. Sorry about the job. Where's the BBQ business? If I'm in the area I'd gladly support your business.
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If the water is dropping into the external box then you can use slightly longer pieces of pipe to raise the water level a tiny bit so the water flows into the box instead. Leave the tallest emergency drain at its current height.
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Nice! Where is the noise coming from? What kind of noise is it making? I have an emerald sump too, though a larger version, and my drain noise is the water falling into the filter socks. If the plumbing on your tank is noisy then you should be able to quiet it down by fine tuning the flow and drainage.
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The tank is looking really nice. I’ve enjoyed watching your update videos.
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Look at the typical online vendors. I'm pretty sure they're running 20% off now.
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17 hours ago, TLew said:
Yeah I wanted to do a bean animal overflow but I ended up with a herbie basically. I bought this overflow and it had three drains, but then I got this Trigger Systems sump and Reef Octopus skimmer for $50 and I couldn't pass it up. It's all up and running now and I just tuned the return and overflow so now it's running silent. It basically has two emergency overflows now. Wish I could have done a true bean animal, but this is working fine now. Does that make any sense? Tell me if I'm wrong!
The problem is you tied those two drains together (see your picture below). If you look at the info here https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/post/md-2017-08-durso-herbie-bean-animal-overflow you will see that each drain should be independently plumbed, even for a herbie. The bean animal is essentially a herbie with an extra emergency drain. The one with the gate valve would be your primary drain and you close the valve enough that you don’t have air in the pipe (full siphon) to make it quite. It’s possible you were able the crank down your flow enough with the valve on you pump to make it work. If so, your not maximizing the flow of your pump. Anyways, just wanted to point this out. Glad everything else is coming along.
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Did you tie one of the drains to the one with the gate valve? If so, I don't believe it's going to allow it to create a full siphon. It won't drain properly and be loud. I think it will fill the overflow box with water, start a siphon and then drain the box in a cycle. Did you test it to do a leak test? You'll see what I mean if I'm correct. Each drain should be independent.
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Do you have a piece of wood separating the sump area from the drawers? My concern would be moisture buildup, and possibly the drawer slides rusting. Not sure if rusty drawer slides could drip into your sump. Maybe I’m overthinking it, but maybe something to avoid down the road by sealing it off now. I have my stand’s removable panels off all the time due to the previous moisture that was causing some mold in my sump area. I need to add fans to drive out the moisture so I can put the panels back on.
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Very nice! Looking forward to more updates.
Lighting question on ai prime 16hds
in General Discussion
Is it the spectrum or the light leakage? If the latter, they make 3d printed diffusers and/or shades that are relatively inexpensive. The lens section of the lights are pretty shallow and those help block the light.