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Posts posted by Fishie
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This looks awesome! I am especially a big fan of the island rock you created there. Tagging along.
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Thank you
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That looks like good real estate from the top so it will get good light for corals
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Are you planning for corals? How about the fish load? The amount of rock will limit the space for corals as most of it is vertical. Also, you might want more rock to provide surface area for beneficial bacteria to populate.
i'm planning anthias schools and some fish from my current tank to be moved to this..
so for coral i think i have enough top side room on the places for SPS colonies...you are right about places of vertical drops...but the width of those is good..so i can stack them around...as i get lower it will be softies anyway
i am also going to be adding BA Biobricks for the bio load in sump...because i don't want too many rocks in the display...i like the open feel more
i did debate making one of the rocks more sideways...but stopped here for now..ill snag a top side pic to show
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That looks awesome.
thanks
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cycling with a ball of cheato...would that work?
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The sand is in and the open pvc capped off
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FTS and rock went in, had to drain to shim on one side
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beautiful tank and pics !Thanks.. yea that bn is pretty cool...
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Are you planning on using those PVC bases? If so, I would suggest capping off the ends. I read a few years ago where someone had bases similar to yours and they started loosing fish after several years on no issues in the tank.
They discovered a huge bobbit worm that was living in the PVC. It was like 4-6 feet long. Hahaha
Omg , thx I will cap them now lol !
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Last island rock done
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Rock work done outside tank
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Ah. Ok. That makes more sense. Nice looking rock though. Might be fun to try making caves or something. I saw they released a video a while ago showing that. I tried it myself with a really large rock I received. I cracked that rock in half in the process :(
oooh...bummer..
i am thinking about making two islands...and got some pvc pipes...
i also read about marco m400 mortar...debating how to proceed with either option
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Is this the regular size brs pukani?
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yes it is, i did ask for specific shapes and they sent me some really big pieces.
in the past I've not gotten anything like this.
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thank you all, i will do a bit off all
get a quote from a GC, fill some water and test the level and get a measure of the joist size
couple other things of note...even without the tank..when running around or walking/stomping...i hear other cabinets /wine glasses rattle ( i assume this is bounce)
the tank stand actually has very low profile like a couple mm sized leg things...there are 6 of them (2 on each bottom end of the MDF support)
5/6 are firmly planted, the rear middle one is slightly raised (allowing a business card to slide a bit .. the tile is very very tad lower there)...my assumption is this will level with water or i'll shim it.
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Correct it was pukani from brs , not live
After 1 hr bath
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After bleach getting ready for acid bath
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hey wamas, thought I should start documenting this..my biggest hurdle right now is location!
I've always wanted a tank on the main level, I feel bad cause my basement tank gets very little foot traffic and ignored more than i'd like
here goes
starting with LR, got about 50pounds of pukani
I decided to clean it well
so power washed them quickly, Followed by a 24 hour bleach with 10:1 ratio
I let them dry overnight then added them to Muratic acid bath with roughly as 30:1 ratio for 1 hour.
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Nice link to provide a little dissection of wood frame construction. Great pictures of failed beams and joists, too.
Is the tank parallel or perpendicular to a line running between the two holes in the ceiling? Is this how you determined the direction of the floor joists?
Do you have a picture from the room with the leather sofa looking the other way?
Is there an i-beam nearby?
I agree that it's likely that you're OK seeing how you're right next to a load-bearing wall. Because of the way the cabinet is designed, most of the load is being carried down the back and the sides. If the joists are running parallel to the tank and the tank crosses two of them, then the load from the back is being distributed across one joist while the load on the second, more forward one is concentrated at two points (one of which is 4-5' away from the load-bearing wall/foundation. Just thinking off the top of my head.... One might be able to do a simple beam calculation assuming doubling a 500# point load five or six feet out on the joist span to (conservatively) see if the deflection is acceptable. For this, you'd basically need to know the length of the floor joist (between the supports), the dimensions of the joist, and the material of the joist. This approach would assume that one end of the aquarium was pretty much up against a fixed support (that is, up against a load bearing wall), that half the weight of the tank was carried on the forward joist and that half of that weight was cantilevered out on the extent of the forward-most joist (and that this would be the greater deflection since the joist toward the back has a distributed load).
Ok here is a pic of opposite side
Also I outlined how the tank is roughly from the basement ... I don't know exact cause I estimated based on tapping... not sure where the I beam is
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Your most likely fine. See this article to ensure location works: http://www.african-cichlid.com/Structure.htm
i saw this, hence the paranoia
i initially had mine centered around that thin island...then pushed it back near wall to make load bearing...even tho its closer to windows...which will now get blinds lol
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Got a full picture looking at the tank and stand face-on? You say that the floor joists are running parallel (and not perpendicular) to this outside wall? What is the basement like (finished, unfinished)? Could you set a jack post down there if you had to?
FTS
Basement is finished
I have the room in the basement but I looked at the picture of the jack post , don't think I could have it there asthetically
Pic of basement ceiling ... the tank is somewhere above that
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I'm pretty sure that you don't mean 2x4's but that you mean larger, floor joists. Unfortunately, joists running parallel is the less desirable of the two options. Second, on a tile floor, if you get much deflection of the subfloor at all, you may find grout cracking and tiles popping loose (if not outright cracking). Being adjacent to a load-bearing wall is good, though.
Fully loaded (and assuming it's a glass tank), you're probably looking at 1500 to 2000 pounds.
I don't know how much deflection you're really looking at, though. So it may work.
Thanks never thought about that.
Here is a pic of tile and tank legs
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hey guys, got a new tank its 63(L)x22.5(W)x24(H) - about 145Gallons
I have never kept a tank on my main living space...this will be my first...
I am putting it near the kitchen area...on some kind of ceramic tile(which will make clean ups very easy)
Now my ideal tank position has it sitting over my basement where the 2x4s are running parallel to the tank...they are spaced about 14"apart
this is a peninsula ( so i pushed the Width end close to a load bearing wall) but the length of the tank isn't
how worried should i be if i proceed without boosting the subfloor...my basement has a recessed ceiling so i would have to cut the ceiling out ...map where the tank is exactly and then boost it with sistering or other methods..then put up the dry wall again and repaint that part... sounds $$
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thanks all...i totally forgot i can simply just plug it into the utility sink in the laundry room..
Elos 160 Kitchen/Family room build
in Dedicated Tank (Build) Forum
I thought long about not having sand ... now I have between 1-2 inches and I like the look of sand tbh
Bare bottom I've found to look unnatural, so I could have gone with very minimal sand ... figured if it becomes a pain I can always reduce vs adding afterwards
I do plan to have a diamond goby and couple fighting conchs to keep the sand clean
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