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matt

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    College Tank

    in Nano Tanks

    Is 10g limit applied to the display or system volume? Sump or hang on fuge could add helpful water volume. 

     

    Check out eviota gobies 

    Cali tort

    in General Discussion

    I loved this coral too...when I had it. It took on a darker color under T5 for me, and the parts where the reefbrite shown on it the color looked more like isaac's. I got mine from Brad, and not sure where he had gotten it. Hard to see, but my avatar has that tank's first fish (clown) and my original frag of this coral stuck into my sandbed. Here is a crappy pic sometime before I lost it in my move a couple years later.

     

    med_gallery_2632921_1458_688832.jpg

    Corals from a Tank with Dino

    in General Discussion

    This is what I did on my 90g tank when I had dinos earlier this year. I followed some other trusted members' advice and it worked well. Dosing  common hydrogen peroxide in the right percentages did the trick and my dinos were pretty darn bad. I wouldn't think you'd need to do more than 2-3ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10g (probably just fine on the low end) each day in total...the good news is you're treating for something you're worried about versus something you're seeing...right?

     

    Day 1 - 1ml 3% hydro per 10g

    Day 2 - 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g

    Day 3 - AM 1.8ml 3% hydro per 10g

    PM 2ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3.8ml per 10g)

    manual removal as much as possible, cleaned skimmer, blackout begins at lights out (planning blackout until Friday AM)

    Day 4 - AM 2ml 3% hydro per 10g

    PM 1ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g)

    BLACKOUT day 1

    Day 5 - AM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g

    PM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g)

      BLACKOUT day 2

    Day 6 - AM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g

    PM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g)

      BLACKOUT day 3

    Day 7 - AM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g

    PM - planning 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g)

    BLACKOUT ended, tank reopened 

     

    And I continued to hyrdogen peroxide treatment for 2+ wks in total, tweaking to 1.5ml per 10g twice daily after getting some advice along the way...so I treated for a little over a week after my blackout period. Not a trace of them now - zero!

    Moving corals light acclimation

    in General Discussion

    I'm not sure there is a "right" answer, because moving corals isn't just about the light.  

     

    However, this is what I think. MH to MH, similar par should probably be ok. T5 to T5, similar par should probably be ok. When going from MH to T5 or vice versa, similar par should probably be ok but I would still light acclimate. When going to/from LEDS to/from MH/T5/other-LEDs, I would, personally, always light acclimate.

     

    I would suspect some of the LED coral burnings people have had when they were just starting to use LEDs were due to so much of the par coming in a more limited spectrum...such that certain spectrum intensities were higher than prior lighting over a specific coral just prior. I don't know that I'm right, it's what I suspect...but I haven't experienced that situation personally or ever attempted a scientific study on the matter.

     

    Best advice = better safe than sorry

    Can Rock Anemones Sting Corals?

    in General Discussion

    They don't have sweeper tentacles.

     

    Corals that grow to closely can be stung just as any other anemone. However, IME their sting isn't that potent. I had two that were touching several corals with no negative effects.

     

    What kind of corals touched without effects...would be good to know

    Problem with small tanks

    in General Discussion

    I have been running my 6 gallon for about a year with nothing but a HOB filter and lights. I have anemones, a maxima clam, acans, and a bunch of zoanthids. The PO ran it the same way, with less lighting.

     

    I don't feel like the exception to the rule, but I don't have an ATO or temp controller, or even a heater...

    Isaac, the design of your tank doesn't allow much evap...so I'm not surprised you've been able to get by without the ATO. Not everyone is diligent in top-offs though, and with more open surface area an ATO is a good idea in my opinion.

     

    Heater depends on the temp of the room and the stability of that temp.

     

    Swings in parameters are normally going to be bigger in small tanks....so stocking things that are relatively durable isn't a bad idea. However, I still have a dream of a 5.5g acro tank on my desk...but until that day I stare at a reminder of what can happen quickly in a small water volume

    med_gallery_2632921_1180_80851.jpg

     

    Evan, hope your tank doesn't look like this :-)

    Seth's 70G Starphire Leopard Wrasse Sanctuary

    in Dedicated Tank (Build) Forum

    This is a cool build!

     

    What MH light is that?

     

    Also, do you have anything inside the ceramics similar to the way rebar works for concrete? I don't really know it's necessary, but I remember talking to a vendor at MACNA who made similar structures and he had some trial and error to figure out what spans he could make that wouldn't ultimately crack/break. Your design and artistry is really impressive

    Joel & Denise's 90G Reef Build

    in Dedicated Tank (Build) Forum

    I put a heater in my sump and a heater in my overflow. I did this for two reasons. One, redundancy is good and having two heaters seems prudent in case one fails (you have that covered). And two, if my return pump fails when I'm out of town at least the heater in the overflow *may possibly* help keep tank temps up a little versus being of no help whatsoever in the sump. I don't know how much impact the heater in the overflow will have ambiently (wrong word?) through the plastic overflow itself in the absence of passing water flow, but I know the sump heater won't do me any good in a situation where my return pump fails. Oh, and fewer heaters in my acrylic sump seemed to limit the chance of melting or otherwise weakening the acrylic. 

    Joel & Denise's 90G Reef Build

    in Dedicated Tank (Build) Forum

    I had a stock durso from the Marineland plumbing kit on my 90 when I got it. People say you can get them quiet. I was getting some flushing with my eheim pump running without any "dialing back".

     

    I ended up doing a herbie with the two holes in the overflow, and ran my return over the top back corner of the tank and out the overflow box where the stock return had been. I simply removed the return pipe inside the overflow and cut it down to serve as my primary, leaving the durso as my herbie back-up.

     

    Rob (zygote) probably could help you get the stock durso a little quieter, but I wanted the silence of a herbie drain.

    My last tank.. for real this time.. 120

    in General Discussion

    Nice, I did a similar set up on my 90 for a herbie. But, I had pre-existing plumbing a return knock-out removed in the overflow...so I cut off the stock return and converted it to my primary drain and my new return comes up an over...pops out the existing removed knockout in the overflow.

     

    You did good work with the new tank, but you could even put a sea swirl on your return (unlike mine)...once the wallet recovers :-)

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