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TonyInVa

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Posts posted by TonyInVa

  1. 2 hours ago, paul b said:

    I don't know what a Reef Breeder light fixture is but if we are talking about an LED fixture, take a short piece of insulated wire and strip the ends.  Short out the terminals on that "bulb" LED.

    It is low voltage so you won't kill yourself but use insulated wire anyway because the voltages vary in that fixture depending on where you are touching.

     

    If the rest of the lights work.  Replace that LED or maybe you have it backwards.  You may have another LED burnt out so I would short out each one until you get the thing working.

    LEDs either short out or have an open circuit but the jumper will tell you what light it is. 

     

    I build my own fixtures and have to do that all the time.  You may have more than one that is bad.

    If you short it out and some lights come on, that one that you shorted is also bad.

    Hello Paul. Sorry for not clarifying, but it is an led light fixture.  If I am understanding you correctly, I would just bridge the positive and negative on the solder points where the bulb touches the board. I would do this with a piece of insulated wire. Here is a picture of the type of led used.

    s-l400.jpg

  2. Hello. I have an old Reef Breader light fixture. Half the lights are not lit. In the past when this would happen, I would just find the bulb that appeared burnt and replace. I have done that but still half are not lit. I ensure the negative was to negative and positive give to positive.  I believe it is a good solder. I dont think it is the ballast but not sure. How would I go about testing things with a multimeter?

  3. I have a kalk stirrer that is leaking where the acrylic tube meets the acrylic base plate. I tried just applying more silicone, but that didn't work. I would like to separate the  base plate from acrylic tubeso that I can reseal it. I used a heat gun to remove what silicone I could but could not separate the two. The heat softens the silicon. I am afraid to heat it any more, as I don't want to warp the acrylic. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  4. Hello group. I have a huge Rainbow Anemone. I think I am going to have to rehome. Before I do, I will ask a question that I think I know the answer to. This anemone's tentacles have become very long and stringy instead of bubble tipped. Is there a way to get them to not be stringy and be bubble tipped like it was when it was smaller. I have seen this asked in many forum and always never heard of a proven method to keep the bubbled instead of stringy 

  5. I did say in parallel, but I meant in series as in the video. I'm  sorry but I am a dummy when I comes to electronics. I am using these two LEDs

    https://www.rapidled.com/solderless-cree-xm-l2-cool-white-led/

    https://www.rapidled.com/solderless-ultramarine-royal-blue-led-440-445nm/

    These LEDs are limited to 1000mA. So does that mean if the driver has a max output of 1400mA it could blow the LEDs?  Is there a way to fix this?

     

  6. Hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a DIY LED issue. I am using This driver.

    https://www.rapidled.com/mean-well-hlg-240h-c1400b/

    Which states that it can handle 29-59 LEDs ang 179 volts. 

    I am running 27 blues at 3.4 vlts=91.8vlts

    And also running 16 whites at 2.8 vlts=44.8

    Totaling=136.6 volts

     

    The problem I keep having, is that an led blows after several hours of use. The leds are wired in parallel as demonstrated in this video below.

    I have set up many of the projects with the smaller drivers and never had any problems. This is my first time using the driver designed for high quantities of LEDs.

     

     

  7. 45 minutes ago, ScooterTDI said:

    I don't think it's possible to change out the LEDs on these fixtures. They are embedded in what appears to be epoxy.

    Some are very easy to change, if you know what type and can get them. I did try google to find out, but had no luck.

  8. Something you also could consider, is to possibly change out some of the LEDs. Since you are not turning the whites up to 100% and using the full potential of that channel. You stated you did not like the look of the whites at 100%, you could change some of the white LEDs to different spectrums of blue or other colors. 

  9. I am trying to use my Apex to control my dosing pump for Magnesium. It should just be set to a certain time to be on since the doser doses 1.1ml per minute. So I used the setting below. I don't understand what the initial off time is. The pump also came on at 9am this morning. I think it only ran for a minute. I only set this up last night so not sure if it ran at other times. I know that I will have to change the time distance based on needed Magnesium. Any help is greatly appreciated. c84d3454c4b7118ab6bc84f621501093.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

     

     

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