queloque
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Posts posted by queloque
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If tapping into my existing PVC return plumbing is not an option could I put a second pump in the return section of my sump that feeds into my chiller using flex piping that then returns cool water into the display as an additional return?
I read that additional return pumps are used as backup and or for UV so I wanted to do the same with my chiller using all flex tubing.
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A few thoughts:
* There's probably enough flow through the sump to keep the target compounds (the junk you'll be skimming out) in homogeneous solution (rather than separating out), so this should not be an issue. Skimming anywhere in the water column should be ok insofar as this is concerned. It's possible there may be a slightly higher concentration of hydrophobic compounds at the air-water interface, but I wouldn't make this the deciding factor.
* Assuming that you are able to independently adjust the water level in the skimmer (using a gate valve or some other means):
* The pump intake is off the bottom, so it is less prone to sucking in debris that settles there. This may reduce maintenance needs.
* The pump intake is far enough from the surface to keep it from creating a whirlpool and sucking air from the surface unnaturally. (You need to make sure that this doesn't change with evaporation.)
* The venturi input to the pump is not too deep, this should help air intake performance (that's a good thing). (It takes more effort for a pump to pull air down deep into the water than when it's higher up.)
Thanks a lot!!!
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I would say if it is working and more importantly there won't be a flood if there is a power outage it is at the right level.
Thanks.
yeah, i've done a few power outage tests so it won't happen in the sump. I just didn't know if the skimmer pump sucks in more gunk at a much lower level or higher level.
I remember reading something where skimmers perform better at a certain level in the tank but I wasn't sure.
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Your water level is
the water level is not. Just the angle of the picture. I have about 6 inches of height above the top of the baffle. After a power outage, water level goes up 2 inches.
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Thanks for any response.
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those don't look like microbubbles....just regular ol bubbles
Seriously, fresh water acts differently then saltwater so you wont really know until it is 1.025 or so. Bigger bubbles rise to surface quickly and the macro in the compartment will soak it up before hitting the return pump. If the bubbles make it to the return pump then they will be chopped up and turned to microbubbles in the display.I should have took a picture of the return side but there are no bubbles forming in the return side when it spills over to that section. I was just curious about bubbles from the waterfall effect in the middle compartment.
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HA! All that work and you're right back at square one! Don't follow the herd!
Eliminate the baffles, go with an open sump and an eductor. No bubbles!
No i'm not getting rid of the baffles. What herd?
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maybe not micro bubbles, but you may want to raise the water level in the last chamber to keep the bubbles from forming, especially after you go through all of the effort to get rid of them with baffles.
That's not the last chamber. That is the middle chamber(refugium) than after that the return chamber.
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I'm running my leak test again on my sump. Everything is fine now. But after the water goes through the three baffles, the water waterfalls into what will be the refugium. From the image posted are those bubbles considered micro bubbles or I shouldn't worry about the bubbles formed from the waterfall?
Thanks
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Thanks a lot guys.
I went to the glass company and they cut my baffle down 4 inches, so its 11 inches high on the return side. They cut it for Free!!.
So I will make the chamber wider which will cut my refugium down in size.
Do you guys think my skimmer chamber is too big? I was just thinking of removing all the baffles and making the skimmer chamber smaller just to fit the skimmer and have the refugium and return chamber larger.
I will also flip the sump around and pump the pump chamber closer to the wall.
Also any more suggestions on my leak problem under my left overflow where my ball valve is located?
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DON'T add more water, it will overflow when you turn the pump off or lose power.
The water that is displaced is what it takes to fill your pipes. If you are able, move the last baffle further away from the pump (to increase this chamber) or cut it lower.
This is also the chamber you will see lower as your water evaperates so if no ATO then you will need to account for it too.
When I cut the power the water level rose to half the chamber where I put the blue tape where the pump is located. So could I add more water if the water rose only that much or will it raise the water level in the display tank?
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I'm using tap water during the water test so I will be emptying out the tank and sump.
1. You can see the picture with the sump and I have a mag 18 pump but the water remains low where my pump is.
Is this because the baffle is too high? What should I do/
2. I have one leak with the whole setup. under my left overflow you can see below my ball valve there is a leak. God this would suck if I have
to cut everything out and re-glue. Is there an easier way. Would some aquarium silicone be enough to block the leak?
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What I don't get with the baffles is the 1 Inch spacing between the 3 baffles that everyone says it has to be for microbubbles. I cannot even get the silicon tube the fit a little bit in the 1 inch gap to even get started. How is it possible to silicone this properly, especially with the middle baffle. Does it really need to be only 1 inch spacing? There has to be a better way.
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I'm at the stage of installing my glass baffles in my glass sump tank. I put the first one in to cure for 24 hours and I will do a water test tonight.
Question: If there is a leak, do you just overlay another layer of silicone? Will that be sufficient?
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First of all, are you trying to get all your in-tank flow through your return pump or are you planning on using any in-tank power heads?
Are you planning on having all of this return flow going to the display or are you going to use a manifold to split the return to other system elements (such as a refugium or frag tank)?
Do your really need or want this much flow through your sump? Will you have an in-line refugium or one on a separate circuit? Refugiums generally have a lot less flow than what you're describing (unless they're very, very large).
If you're planning on running all of this into your display, I'd be concerned that 1000 gallons per hour through 2 1-inch drains might be approaching their practical limit. One snail in a drain is all you'd need to have a big spill on your hands. Also, you may find yourself having to throttle the output of your return pump if all of it is going back into the display. That would be a waste of power and would generate more heat in many cases. (Some flow-biased pumps like the Dart are notable exceptions.)
Just some thoughts.
- I'm trying to get all my inflow to the tank from the return pump.
- All going to the display from the return. No split except for the tee that negotiates between the left overflow and the right overflow
- Do I need or want that much overflow? I don't know? John at Blue Ribbon Koi suggested a Mag 18 based on what I described at the beginning of the post.
- If you are concerned about 1000 gallons are you suggesting Mag 12?
- throttling? I do have the ball valves at each return, I have pic posted
What do you think?
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The Eheim pumps are the only ones I like. Look at the 1262. It should produce about 634 gal/hr on your setup (about 40 l/min at 1m head).
And yes, all pumps generate heat and transfer it to the water. Submersibles do it more than external pumps and I think the mag pumps run hotter than the eheims. I use a mag 12 to mix water in a 44 gal brute trashcan. It easily heats the water to 85 degrees or so over the course of a day. When I used a mag 36, it would get well into the 90s.
hmm. I have a chiller if the heat gets that bad. I'm just concerned about my horizontal length that I mentioned in the start of the post along with upflow and the water negotiation at my Tee and I don't know if that Eheim 1262 will be enough compared to the Mag 18.
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Yes, plenty of turnover. I'm not a fan of the mag pumps because of the noise and heat esp the bigger than a mag 12. Just my opinion.
What submersibles do you like? I've been reading about noise for the mag even though mine will not be under my tank but in a separate location.
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On the Mag 18 the calculations come out to,
Total losses are 6.91 feet of head pressure, or 2.99 PSI. with a flow rate of 1089 GPH
Are those good numbers?
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Save yourself a ton of money and space, by buying a MAG 18 or MAG 24 by Danner. Good, reliable, easy to clean and service.
Yeah, I was looking for a submersible because I don't want to drill a hole in the side of my sump for an external pump and yes the cost too.
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Which model? How many GPH should I look for?
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I need to make sure I buy the correct pump.
I have a 125 gallon with 2 overflows. 1 in each corner. the return pipe is 1 1/2 hard PVC.
My return will be pumping up from the 21 inch high sump, moving the water horizontally across the sump 4 feet, than another 2 or 3 feet before hitting a Tee that feeds up my return on the right side of the tank. Also moving another 6 feet to the left side of the tank and elbows up to the return on the left side of the tank.
Thanks
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No, I'm not. You have 1-1/2 inch overflows? Many setups have 1" drains and 3/4" returns. Please describe your setup more completely please. We're kind of going 'round and 'round.
No worries I took a drive to Blue Ribbon Koi and we mapped out the best solution for plumbing. I'll let you know how it comes out. Sorry for the confusion.
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I used flexible PVC (in very limited areas) for two reasons: First, for installation flexibility - I didn't have to line things up just so; and, second, for noise suppression (suppressing transmitted vibration). If you use flexible PVC, be aware that you treat it a little differently than hard PVC. Don't use primer on it, for example, as it weakens the joint in a long term sense; and use medium pvc cement on it, too, rather than the thin stuff. As for where I used it: I used it in my stand between my display drains / returns and the wall (along one leg only) and I used it at the input and output of my main pump. Everything else is hard PVC.
1-1/2 inch PVC would be the minimum that I'd use if you're merging two one inch drains if you want to retain full drainage capacity.
So are you saying, the existing 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe in my overflows should, via the bulkhead convert to a 1 inch horizontal pvc that runs horizontal to my sump?
And my exiting 1 inch return that sits inside the overflow should me merged from a 1 1/4 pvc?
I'm about to go to lows and I want to be sure I got this right.
Thanks.
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That's very unusual for AWI. They will normally respond to emails early in the day or late in the evening. Afternoons are reserved for packing and shipping orders. They have the best warranty and stand by their products (I know this from personal experience) so it's worth a few hours of waiting.
Well I emailed yesterday and called twice today.
So far no response.
Second return pump for chiller question
in General Discussion
Thanks. The pump i'm using is the same pump I used for my chiller in my previous 90 gallon tank but it function as the sole return for the tank.
Now I want to use it with the 125 that already has two built in returns with the mag 18, and the pump with the chiller would be an additional 3rd return using the flex tubing thats either 1/2 or 3/4 inch.