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LCDRDATA

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Posts posted by LCDRDATA

  1. After reading through the articles it looks like velvet is the most likely :cry: . I've just added the appropriate dose of Cupramine to the hospital tank; now I guess it's just wait and see. He did seem to be spending a little more time upright than laying down since I move him; hopefully that's a good sign (and continues).

  2. My tank appeared to have stabilized after the crash, and the three remaining fish all seemed to be healthy and happy. A week ago I added my first new fish - a juvenile Atlantic Tang. I took my wife with me to pick it out since she's much better at detecting any signs that something might be wrong, and neither of us could detect any. The picture below, taken shortly after he went in, isn't great, but is mainly for the color (in contrast to those to come):

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_133936.jpg

     

    The little guy was always shy, so getting a good look at him (let alone a good photo) was challenging, but toward the end of the week my wife said she thought he might be pale. I eventually managed to get a couple of semi-decent photos:

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_77865.jpg

     

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_83679.jpg

     

    I wanted to check on the fish when the lights came on, and found him laying on the bottom :ohmy: :

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_225755.jpg

     

    I've never seen anything quite like this before, and don't have any good idea what it is. I was finally able to localize and catch the little guy and just got him into a hospital tank. Does anyone know what's going on here, and what an appropriate treatment regime might be? Thanks!

  3. When not buying locally, over time I've purchased from reefgeek, hellolights, and BRS. All three are good, and which has the best price will be a function of the exact bulbs you want and any specials/sales they have running at the time.

  4. I purchased one of these for my 29 gallon tank. ... I am very happy with this fixture. http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649

     

    I went to the site, took a look at the specs, and then the photos, and one caught my eye:

    $(KGrHqF,!jcFC3rBNy3PBQ7svdQqpw~~60_39.JPG.

    It all looked familiar, so I did a quick search of WAMAS forums and found this pic (courtesy of Rob):

     

    sml_gallery_2631654_1099_159445.jpg .

     

    If I'm not greatly mistaken, the two are the same unit, which is one of the Evergrow D120s, albeit with a slightly more complex layout than the "basic" model (although probably not more than what some members have ordered). I haven't taken the plunge yet myself, although I've been considering it.

     

    So, if you like the look of gwweber's tank, what you probably want to do is copy the layout from the ebay site and plug that into Monkiboy's spreadsheet when the 5th round group buy kicks off.

  5. My 55 gallon FOWLR we set up for Erastus the 30" snowflake moray has supported luxurious GHA growth on the aquascape :angry: which up to now I hadn't been able to put much of a dent in. However, I recently added a large sump with chaeto, and during the last water change I noticed that much of the GHA was finer and less well attached to the rock. So last night I got out my long (~25') siphon, ran one end into my sump through a filter sock, and started vacuuming. Normally I'd have put the extra coiled length down in the sump, but last night it was a little crowded so I left it on the back of the couch. Before too long my wife wanted to get my attention (I was focused inside the tank), as our large, 15 pound gray cat Shadow had spotted the green balls whizzing through the coils of the clear tubing and was trying to catch them! :laugh: Obviously he wasn't going to succeed, but that didn't stop him, and this went on more or less continually for about 30 minutes. I'll try to get some pics on my build thread next time, but I thought folks might get a kick out of this.

  6. A graphene membrane wouldn't "trap" any impurities, as the carbon it's made of is all bound to itself. But since the pressure required and drop across the membrane is so reduced, it should be a huge improvement over the current waste water:product ratio.

  7. My deepest condolences on your loss. Last weekend I picked up a 30 gallon from another WAMAS member to use as a new sump, but haven't been able to do anything with it yet. He was also using it as a sump, and you're welcome to borrow it if you don't mind rinsing it out first. I also have a 15 tall last used as a hospital tank; I was using cupramine but my understanding is that carbon will remove the residue from that medication. I have Reserve duty in the District this weekend but could swing by first thing in the morning either tomorrow or Sunday and drop off one or the other (or both). Just let me know; I'll check this first thing in the morning so PM contact info if interested.

  8. I finally heard back from the company and they said they no longer carry the 90 degree optics but that I could remove the existing ones if I wanted. So, does anyone out there have some optics available for a reasonable price? I'm looking for ~20. Am I correct in assuming they're all more or less interchangeable? Thanks!

  9. Interesting idea. How did you shorten the length since it is 16' long ?

     

    At the time I had a glass top on the tank, so I just laid it down along the perimeter and then ran the remainder lengthwise down the middle. In the morning I just rolled it up and set it next to the stand.

  10. I need to get a Reactor to help me fight some algae growth in my tank... What Do you guys think about this reactor ? They have on sale for $ 53.99

    I have a BRS biopellet reactor, and my understanding is the one you're talking about is essentially siamese twins of the same thing. Basic, simple, does the job.

  11. I stumbled across these units and was considering one at the same time the last Evergrow group buy was on, but I couldn't read the charts well enough to tell if it would be enough light for my tank (standard 75-gallon). At the price listed, one 48" unit would be competitive, but two would be too much (as well as more than I could afford). Then other issues came up and I couldn't afford any new lights. I still wish I could figure out the charts, though.

  12. Normal process.

     

    When photosynthesis is going on, CO2 is used and O2 is released. More O2 and less CO2 in the water means pH goes up. When photosynthesis isn't going on, O2 is used and CO2 is released. More CO2 and less O2 in the water means pH goes down.

     

    Absolutely correct. However, if you're seeing large swings you may not have enough buffering capacity in your tank, which is usually a factor of your alk level and the composition of your alk and salt mixes.

  13. just visited yesturday and have to say it was an awsome experience.

     

    Jim -

     

    While you're stationed there you should make sure to go to the Oceanarium Restaurant on Waikiki (Pacific Beach Hotel). The centerpiece of the restaurant is a 280,000-gallon tank full of native Hawaiian fish of all kinds. Do the lunch buffet; it's a good bit less expensive than dinner, and to me just as good.

  14. I am a graduate student working on my PhD. I study dinoflagellates. ... If you can magnify the algae a bit it should be pretty easy to tell what it is. Pest cyanobacteria are filamentous while dinos will be individual cells (little ovals).

     

    My wife has a microscope she picked up awhile back; I may try to get her to take a look at this stuff later. Now wouldn't be a good time because she's already lost too much of the day with me working on the tank rather than the "honey-do" list. But she'll probably be interested, as she was a wildlife management major, and my daughter (who's home on spring break from college) is a Junior majoring in biology. If and when we get something definitive I'll absolutely let you know.

     

    I think the bubbles from the underlying algae make the cyano look like dino. I would skim wet and do a water change by sucking as much as you can out with a hose.

     

    This stuff came about after the die off. Didn't it? Still looks like cyanobacteria to me. Especially when I start seeing the large purple sheets of the stuff. The growth is probably fueled by available nutrients in the water from the die-off. Either way, I'd siphon whatever it is out as it's an easily removed reservoir of trapped nutrients that you'd probably want out of your tank anyway.

     

    I spent from about noon to two this afternoon siphoning off what I could through a 100-micron sock and got quite a bit of junk. I've also turned the lights off.

     

    I suppose the GHA could be producing bubbles, but it wasn't before the crash, and this stuff (while it popped up after) was all over after only 12 hours, which seems fast for decomposition to free up nutrients.

     

    This is the pic that makes me think Dino. I see no hair algae on this coral. The fact that your fish died mysteriously; fish can die from eating dino. The loss of power and water and then this pops up so fast. One or two of the authors of the links I posted had similar circumstances that led to their dino outbreak.

     

    That's what I'm thinking, too. But my wife just threatened to confiscate my laptop :excl: if I don't get to work on her stuff, so I'd better get on it. I'll try to post test results later this evening.

  15. Thanks for your help (Jan, John especially, thank you for the links). After reading through them I'm leaning toward dino.s, although I wish I weren't. I'll also try to get some better/more close up photos.

     

    As far as recommended steps, reducing light, continuing to vacuum and raising pH all seem doable, and I'm already running a second reactor to pull out nutrients I also have additional bacteria I can add.

     

    I can't seem to tell if I should turn off the biopellets or not; thoughts? Of course, if I do, I will need to keep them from going anaerobic and toxic in the period before turning them back on, but that should be workable too.

  16. Moving this from my "Happy Birthday" thread; I guess in some ways this has become a new issue...

     

    As if losing the fish wasn't bad enough, on top of that I am now fighting some kind of nasty algae(?). Admittedly I was already having some hair algae issues, but this stuff had appeared thick over the GHA by the time I got home the same day as the leak (Monday the 25th), making the "hair" into ugly-colored dreadlocks. I'm posting a couple photos below - the first is a "before" shot taken a few days after the last WAMAS meeting, the "after" shots were taken last night (5 March). Of note, I spent ~ two hours Monday night (4 March) "vacuuming" the tank with a siphon - draining into the sump through a filter sock - and pulling this stuff (whatever it is) and GHA by hand, so at least as far as the stringy, nasty, bubbly stuff is concerned this is 24 hours' growth.

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_146662.jpg

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_189460.jpg

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_282048.jpg

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_209648.jpg

     

    I've cut back on the feeding, and done two large water changes. I picked up a Phosban 150 reactor from Quantum Reefs over the weekend (thanks again, Vince!) and am running that with a mixture of carbon, PhosGuard, and Purigen, in addition to the pre-existing BRS bio-pellet reactor I've been running for some time. I've also been dosing nitrifying bacteria - probably one reason my ammonia has stayed at or near 0 despite the fish bodies I could never find. I need to do another round of testing, but so far the parameters are all pretty close to what they were before, except for the predictable Nitrate uptick.

     

    So I'm now looking for info on 1) what this stuff is (sort-of looks like cyano, sort-of not); 2) what (if anything) I can do to knock it back/out beyond what I'm already doing; and 3) how long that is likely to take. Any thoughts/suggestions?

  17. As if losing the fish wasn't bad enough, on top of that I am now fighting some kind of nasty algae(?). Admittedly I was already having some hair algae issues, but this stuff had appeared thick over the GHA by the time I got home the same day as the leak (Monday the 25th), making the "hair" into ugly-colored dreadlocks. I'm posting a couple photos below - the first is a "before" shot taken a few days after the last WAMAS meeting, the "after" shots were taken a few minutes ago. Of note, I spent ~ two hours last night "vacuuming" the tank with a siphon (draining into the sump through a filter sock) and pulling this stuff (whatever it is) and hair algae, so at least as far as the stringy, nasty, bubbly stuff is concerned this is 24 hours' growth.

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_146662.jpg

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_189460.jpg

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_282048.jpg

     

    gallery_2631918_1196_209648.jpg

     

    I've cut back on the feeding, and done two large water changes. I picked up a Phosban 150 reactor from Quantum Reefs over the weekend (thanks again, Vince!) and am running that with a mixture of carbon, PhosGuard, and Purigen, in addition to the pre-existing BRS bio-pellet reactor I've been running for some time. I've also been dosing nitrifying bacteria - probably one reason my ammonia has stayed at or near 0 despite the fish bodies I could never find. I need to do another round of testing, but so far the parameters are all pretty close to what they were before, except for the predictable Nitrate uptick.

     

    So I'm now looking for info on 1) what this stuff is (sort-of looks like cyano, sort-of not); 2) what (if anything) I can do to knock it back/out beyond what I'm already doing; and 3) how long that is likely to take. Any suggestions?

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