Jump to content

craby

BB Participant
  • Posts

    446
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by craby

  1. Larry-T

    "So plus or minus 200 out of 30,000 is about the same fluctuation you get with a 1 degree F change in temperature."

     

    This is not comparing apples to apples as the 200 ppm of "Total Dissolved Solids" in the tap water are unwanted solids & the 30,000 ppm in the tank are beneficial salt & trace elements.

  2. As far as I am aware, not all Iwaki's are japanesse made.

     

    The abbreviations are as follows:

    MD - Japanesse motor

    WMD - Walchem american motor

    30 or less - no cooling fan (quiter)

    40 or more - Comes w/ cooling fan

    RLT - Pressure rated

    RLXT - Non pressure rated (made for high flow)

  3. Yes, they pair up. I've had several pistol shrimp & have never seen them go after hermit crabs or snails & typically just eat what they dig up. The aragonite/crushed coral should be great. One note, make sure that your LR is on the bottom of the tank & no sand under it as the shrimp/goby will dig & possibly undermine the LR creating an avolanch.

  4. What is the water pressure coming from your well? If it does not meet the min. PSI (40 I think) you may need a booster pump to get any clean water. The reason is the membrane requires this pressure to force the water through it.

  5. You also need to plan the spacing of the dividers/baffles according to what you are planing to keep in your sump, where the drains will be, & where the return pump(s) will go. I have mine w/ refugium chamber on left, skimmer chamber on right, & retund chamber in middle. Here's some picks:

    139sump_1.jpg

    139sump_2.jpg

  6. I lost one due to a Tunze Turbelle PH falling off the mount & blowing on one side for a day. The deterioration started slowly, & after a week the whole thing was white. Is it in high flow area?

    Also, is there anything close that could be sending stinger tentacles out at night?

    Other damage has occured by stuff falling on it.

     

    I have lost 1/2 dozen brains over the past (2) years. My experience has been that once it starts dying, it does not survive.

  7. emissary,

    I kept a 2.5 gal nano for about a year w/ (2) 9w PC bulbs & a ViaAqua 70gph PH. I also had a 5 gal nano w/ (4) 9w PC & PH. That's all for equipment. I do believe you will find that the smaller tanks require less equipment & that the 13w PC bulb will not add too much heat to the water.

    Also, when you put a bunch of equipment in a nano, the electrical cords coming from the canopy can look messy in relation to the size of the tank.

  8. Parking along the (4) blocks surrounding my building is acceptable & usually readily available on the weekend. No problem worrying about paid parking & tickets as long as you don't illegaly park.

  9. Hello all,

    My tank tour is coming up this Sunday, 8/14/05 from 1 - 5 pm. My address is:

    4850 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Apt # 1016

    Washington, DC 20008

     

    Mapquest has not let me down yet. If you need specific directions, just PM me & I can reply w/ directions.

     

    Please advise if you plan on coming over. Thanks, ;)

    Luke C.

  10. I would frag the salvagable parts of the SPS that RTN has not reached yet ASAP. Through away the white skeleton. Basicaly it's a chain reaction some times w/ RTN where it jumps from coral to coral & removing the dead coral can help stop this chain reaction.

  11. Gary,

    I had the same issue when I had the RBTA's in my tank. The sps are doing better now that I removed the RBTA's. I don't know if they could be part of the problem, but I think they are more suited to a softie tank. I read somewhere that they release toxins in the tank that fowl the water. I am not aware of a test you can do to measure this toxicity, but if you plan to have luck w/ sps, you may want to look into removing some, if not all of the RBTA's. Also, zoos are fairly capable of releasing a similar, although less potent toxin in the water if stressed.

    Do you have alot of zoos?

  12. I have a eunice worm living in my sand bed. I have seen it at night but can't get a pic because in retracts to it's hidding spot lightning fast. I found a brief discription on the "Reefkeeping Magazine" at:

    http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/rs/index.htm

     

    The description is as follows:

    "Eunice individuals tend to live in mucus-lined borrows in rock or sediments and may have several entrances to their tubes. It lives in a burrow in the sediment, or more rarely, in a burrow in the rocks. When feeding, one of these worms will slowly extend from its burrow. They typically have four to six eyes and are quite capable of detecting motion outside the aquarium, and across the room. It will slowly search the surrounding area for food and if bothered by a fish, or its own shadow, will retract into its burrow with a velocity that has to be seen to be believed. Contraction back into a burrow has been clocked in excess of 20 feet per second, and if only a couple of feet of the worm are visible while it is foraging, that worm can disappear, quite literally, in the blink of an eye."

     

    Here's what they look like:

     

    139Eunice_worm.jpg

     

    I believe it is eating my fire cracker zoos & maxima clam as I find the tips of the zoos gone & the clam is shriveling up :unsure: . I also find the same mucus membrane on the zoos & clam as the worm leaves around it's body when it is out scavenging. It's at least 1' long & the diameter of a pencil.

    Any idea how to get rid of it short of disassembing my tank rockwork?

  13. Ditto on what Howard said.

    One thing that would help is to use a 100 gal rubbermaid as a temp sump plumbed into the new tank. This way you can do a big water change on your old tank the weekend before you move, add new water & old water to the temp sump & new tank & let it settle over the week. This will allow for extra water available at the new place.

     

    I will make myself available to help on moving day, depending on the date. When are you scheduling the move?

  14. My $.02. MH gives a nice shimmering light over the tank, kinda what you see when you look in a pool as the light ripples over the bottom. Some say this looks more natural. It's all a personal preference. I have had PC, VHO, & MH and I prefer MH.

×
×
  • Create New...