turbo2oh
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Posts posted by turbo2oh
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13 hours ago, DaJMasta said:
An elaborate setup, but I don't necessarily think it's a bad overall plan of attack. There is some concern with overall reliability, but flow/leak detectors (I don't know how they integrate into the controller, but I assume it can handle them) and an auto-stop associated with them triggering or reading something bad would go a long way towards avoiding problems while running on its own. I would be particularly careful to design your plumbing and reservoirs to compensate for the volume of the plumbing between the equipment room and the tank - it's going to be a few gallons in the return line, at least, though somewhat less in lower diameter pipes. I would probably put in any solenoid type valves right above the sump for the tank rather than one the water change side, and I would make sure there's a slight downhill slope between the sump outlet and the height of the reservoir in the closet, so that when the pumps shut off, instead of getting stagnant water in the pipes, it all drains back into the appropriate reservoir. Basically trying to plumb everything so that if you shut it off, loose power, trip a leak sensor/etc that it drains back into a proper place instead of just stopping somewhere that creates problems or is just really hard to drain later to reset.
I don't know if this was already the intention, but making it a 'semi-automatic' system is probably the safer option. One where it handles the water moving and such still, but which relies on external input to start the process (or even, to start each stage.) Programming an appropriate time or flow measurement for the change but advancing each step with an extra button press would prevent cascading problems if something arises in an early step, and even if the goal ultimately is fully automatic, it's probably good to program in (I assume that's how it would be done with this controller) some extra pauses for manual input so that at least the first few times through the process, you can run a step and then look at the sensor data and check the pipes/water locations to make sure everything is still on track. Debugging can be built into the setup and then just omitted or ignored once things work, so it's good to plan an extra button input or an extra text output or something just to give some analysis options in the event of a problem.Thanks for the detailed feedback. Yeah, my intention a push-button water change. As you stated I may migrate to a fully automated one at one point but not initially. I'll have to read up more on using the DOS for water changes and any potential issues with water in the lines or siphon issues. Great points!
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@jimlin It's definitely a concern, but I know from my past tank that if I plan to do them manually I won't do them regularly. That's why I'm trying to make sure I have my bases covered for safety and system redundancy.
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I have a Reef Savvy cube I previously had up for several years (5/6) (originally from another WAMAS member). Unfortunately, in the process of a move I lost just about everything and decided to shut it down.
I now have some time to restart it. I'm trying to make a few adjustments this time to make my life easier. Primarily more automation by implementing an auto-water change system with the Neptune DOS and possibly a auto-filling ATO reservoir. Combining that with relatively low demand corals/fish I'm hoping to keep the maintenance schedule very easy. Just mixing up saltwater occasionally, feeding, and very intermittent testing (maybe a trident in the future?).
I've had the saltwater, dry rock, and sand in the tank for about 6 months now. I had cycled it originally but just restarted the cycle since it had sat fallow for so long since the first one.
My gear:
60g Reef Savvy cube
20g sump
New Neptune Apex (replacing old one)
Neptune DOS
Reef Octopus eSsence S-130 Skimmer
Kessil 360we w/ Aquatic Life fixture with 4 ATI blue plus T5s
Kessil H80 Sump light
Sicce Syncra SDC 6.0 return pump
BRS 5-Stage RODI 75GPD
Trigger ATO 10g reservoir
2x Ehiem heaters (150w?)
Avast Marine ATO
Homemade stand
Reef Saver Dry Rock
I have a few near term goals:
- Get a fish in there! Don't want to wait several more months and have to cycle again
- Decide if I'm going to replace the flooring below my tank and in the closet where I plan to store my water. I'm in the basement but its carpeted so a spill can still be a pain.
- Compile a shopping list of everything I need to get the remote auto water change and top off set up (its about 20ft away from the tank)
- Set up plumbing and wiring for ATO and water change system in a closet
Here's the shopping list I've compiled so far:
- some LVP flooring (if I'm going to replace it) (do people put a lip or anything on these types of set up to keep spilled water in?)
- lots of color-coded RO tubing (already got a 30ft aquabus cable with the new apex)
- valves for ATO water in and water change water out (what is best here? Planning to use bathroom sink hookups)
- optical water level sensors for Apex (thinking RO top off to drive a solenoid and another to monitor sump overflow)
- neptune FMM and leak detector
- solenoid(s) for handling ATO?
- replacement media and RO membrane for RODI system (they're old)
I'm adding a few photos of the tank, the closet where I plan to store water,RODI, etc. and the bathroom where I plan to hookup the drain and RODI input (open door on far left in 3rd photo). Also my work-in-progress sketch of how I'd like to set up the remote water change. I'm planning to cut a hole to run the tubing/aquabus cable across the top of the bar behind all the bottles and behind the refrigerator to the closet next to the refrigerator.
Any helps/tips/advice as I restart this journey are appreciated!
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Thanks! I’ll start dosing Alk and measure calcium for a week or so just to see if it changes.
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I have a 60g cube that's lightly stocked. I'd like to start dosing though just to get my Alk solid. I'm trying to determine how much Alk/Ca to add per day so I've been measuring my Alk for the past week. It seems like it drops a little over 1dkh per day.
Day 1 was right after a water change:
1) 8.1
2) 8
3) 7.8
4) 7.7
5) no measurement
6) 7.4
Based on these results and the BRS calculator I should be adding approx. .1 or .2 fl oz per day to keep it steady. Can I also assume how much Calcium I should be adding per day based on this Alk usage or should I measure that for a few days and determine dosage based on that?
Thanks!
Phil
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Anyone using the Neptune DOS?
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Your experience reminds me of the one that I had with an old (SWC) skimmer that was equipped with a Sicce PSK2500 pump with a needlewheel impeller. It just would not reliably start after a power outage. I would routinely shove a chopstick in through the intake to give the impeller a nudge to get it restarted. Hated and cursed it. Other aquarists suffered the same frustration. Talking to Dan over at Avast Marine (who is a friend and who had no stake in the skimmer design), he told me that it might have been a problem with the needlewheel mass and clutch design, and the inability of the pump to get sufficient startup momentum to keep the impeller turning. The result was that it would stall. In that case, the PSK1000 was a more reliable replacement.
I don't know if this experience applies to your situation, but thought there were similarities between our stories. Do a little searching and see if there are others out there sharing the same frustration with the pump, If there are, it may be a design flaw. Try reaching out to the skimmer manufacturer, too. They may have some idea of what's going on.
Yep, that sounds exactly like what I was doing except I was using a screwdriver instead of a chopstick. I'll do a little research as you suggested. Thanks.
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I got my replacement impeller today and it definitely rotates more freely. However, upon starting the pump it doesn't immediately spin. I have to jump start it with a little nudge (I tested this with the impeller cover off. I was able to get it running using this method and basically putting the cover back on while it was running, and now my skimmer is back up and bubbling. The issue is, I'm not confident I can turn it off again and restart it without having to go through the process again. Also not sure why the old impeller was so swollen.
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All the bushings are in place. I ordered a replacement impeller last night. I was reading that sometimes the magnet can swell and it doesn't spin as freely inside the housing anymore so hopefully thats it. Thanks for the advice about replacement pumps, hopefully it doesn't come to that especially after buying a new impeller.
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I have an Aquamaxx ConeS CO 1 which has a SHARK 1.5 pump. I did a water change 2 days ago and turned everything back on. I didn't notice until yesterday that the skimmer never turned back on. After confirming it had power, I took the pump out, cleaned it, and it still won't turn on. While out of the water, turning it on, I can hear it hum and sometimes it starts to spin (maybe does a quarter or half rotation before it sticks again) but then stops. It wasn't very dirty but was pretty hot to the touch when I took it out to clean it. It does offer some resistance while turning the impeller myself and I can't remember if thats normal or not.
Is it toast or is there something else I can try to fix it?
Replacement pump is $140 and Marine Depot doesn't even have them in stock right now Is there a better pump perhaps?
Thanks!
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That's it. Just want to secure it. Haven't tested with water.
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I have a used zeovit reactor I'd like to repair. Is this the best product to do so?
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I did a water change 3 days ago. I tested again today and alk is 6.3, ca is 340. Everything looks about the same. I guess its unrealistic to expect things to color back up quickly. The only other change is my duncans are closed up today. Im not sure if I should plan for another water change shortly or let them adjust to parameter change for a week or two first. Previously alk was 5.5-5.8. Any thoughts?
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Yeah, I just tested and alk and calc were both real low. Alk was about 5.5-5.8. I don't dose and hadn't tested in quite awhile. Everything was growing well and water changes seemed to be keeping up with demand. I guess its time to either bump up the water change schedule or start dosing! I'm gonna try to do a water change tomorrow night and hopefully that brings levels back up to normal. Any chance these guys will turn it around if levels come back up to normal?
Should I try to do something more aggressive like baking soda or find some kalkwasser?
Thanks for all the quick responses!
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So I hadn't really looked at the tank in the past few days and immediately noticed some of my monti's are partially bleached (not positve its bleaching but def. discolored). Another acro at the same height is browning. I have a few others that have their polyps retracted. Everything else seems ok including RBTA, fish, inverts. The only change I had made was adjusting my LEDs to be about 5% brighter for most of the day. I also started using a formula one food instead of the normal mysis.
Could that have caused this amount of damage?
Why would some be browning and others bleaching?
I've checked SG and it looks good. I'll test other params as soon as I can. I also started filling a RODI container for a water change hopefully tomorrow. I also stopped the GFO reactor but its been running for awhile and I still have good macro growth so I doubt thats it. Any ideas on what might be going on?
Here's some before and after shots, the before were with a DSLR and the after were just now with my camera phone but the difference in the acro at the top and the montis should be evident. Another piece of the green monti near the bottom of the tank looks exactly the same.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
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I got an aussie from ERC about 8 months ago and its doing great. Hasn't stung anything, the closest coral is about 2" away. Haven't tried fragging it.
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So here I am a little over a year later and the tanks doing well!
Originally I didn't really organize my electronics, everything was just shoved behind the stand. I kept putting it off thinking I'd do it soon. Well, soon turned into a year later it. I finally got it all organized and installed in a cabinet!
Next step is to upgrade the ATO storage to something fancier than a home depot bucket since its sitting next to my tank and pretty visible.
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Congrats! Can't wait to see some new corals up on the website.
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No corals listed on the website either.
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Most pools have bottoms that are painted white but the chemicals in the water make it appear blue. I would take a wild guess and say the water is blue but was viewed under a slightly yellow light?
It's not chemicals in the pool it's just how water interacts with light. You can test it by picking up pool water in your hands or a cup. It's the depth of the water.
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What kind of rock did you use?
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Marcorocks dry rock.
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I went ahead and clipped out what I could last night and pulled some out of the sandbed. I'm gonna pickup a tooth brush to try to really get more off than I can with the scissors.
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PS this really sucks haha. Don't even like looking at the tank like this.
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60g reef savvy cube restart
in Dedicated Tank (Build) Forum
Haha, my wife suggested a larger tank to better fill the space as well. You are making me reconsider that option
A fully remote sump is an interesting idea but that would mean a lot more water moving through the walls for the return pump across a pretty long distance (~20ft), than just some 3/8" tubing for the neptune DOS and ATO lines.