Jump to content

Big Country

BB Participant
  • Posts

    1,023
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Big Country

  1. Buy you a 31 Series Deep Cycle Marine Battery with the biggest RC value that you can find or afford.  Try to stay away from a marine starting battery or a dual purpose battery.  Look at the labels and make sure it's a deep cycle.

     

    I have two Deka Brand batteries in my boat that I have used in an emergency before I bought a generator.

  2. I used them for some time and never had any issues.  If I look in my pump parts drawer I will probably find one or two pumps and some parts still around, I know I have a Rio 800 which was a dependable little pump.  I think I used something around a 2500 for a return.

  3. The one you are using as a cheato reactor is a NextReef MR1 reactor, with what looks like the hang on adapter installed, I use the same one for carbon.  Nextreef made a two chamber one called the Monster if I remember correctly.  The flatter one is a NextReef reactor also but not sure on name, think they may have called it a Shorty.  Not sure what the white one with the pump is but was definitely set up for biopellets with that nozzle setup.

     

    I don't think you could easily modify any of these to be a Calcium Reactor.

  4. I think Dr. Mac did a video on Maxima's recently and said that the smaller ones that he sold were farm raised and that if you found a larger one it would be a wild collected clam and usually have some type of parasite or something.  Maybe check his site for the video.

     

    I had a Derasa that I bought at about 4" that was probably 8"-9" when I lost it, most of the Maxima's I have had over time were bought about the 3" size and never had one get very large in my tank.  I've always wanted to try a Squamosa.

  5. 2 hours ago, DFR said:

    Kind of off-topic, but what type of safety statement did you create?  I’m not familiar with any for probes and would like to incorporate something similar on my Apex.  

    When temp probes fail they either read really low or really high values.  I wrote a statement If Temp<60 htr off, if temp >82 light off and fan on.  If you run a chiller I'd write a statement of if temp>85 then chiller off

  6. Yeah, I just had to download a app to resize the image to get it small enough to post.  Maybe I'll post more pictures now.

     

    I do need to get the polyp labs lenses out and try them to try and clean up the color of the pictures though.  They always look either washed out or blue.

  7. 5 hours ago, Origami said:

    In urgent situations, post here on WAMAS and check the region's LFS's. (Besides helping your small-business neighbor, frequenting your LFS helps them keep the lights on and available to you in these situations.) Most of the time, you'll find that somebody has what you need on the shelf, or some helpful advice that can help fix things or tide you over.

    I agree, John at BRK has bailed me out twice when I have had temperature probes go bad on my ACIII controller and things go nuts.  It was a long drive both times from Germantown and BWI airport areas but he was the nearest Neptune dealer with a probe in stock.  I keep a spare in my cabinet now.

     

    Taught me to put in safety statements into my programming and buy a spare temp probe just in case.

  8. Yeah, I thought about just taking a bus bar from my old boat, cutting the minidin8 plug off of my Avast ATO and wiring it up as a homemade breakout box with bigger screws for my old eyes.  I do like the breakout box that Avast built but it looks like it is no longer available

     

    I would have to cut the I/O plug off of my Avast Marine ATO anyway, I'm assuming that there are only 2 wires in the ATO, and hook it to the breakout box so I have that I/O port open on the Apex

  9.   I'm just setting up a Apex Classic to replace my old ACIII and looking into using the Apex to actually control more functions of my tank.

     

      I am running a Jebao DP4 dosing pump and made my own dosing containers from kitchen containers I bought at Walmart and put a murlock fitting in the lids.

     

      I see low profile 2L Kamoer dosing containers on BRS that have a float switch in them, they are designed to directly plug into the Kamoer doser.  For the $14.99 they charge for the containers it's not really cost effective to DIY something with a float switch

     

      Got me to thinking, can I get a breakout box for the Apex to wire these float switches to so that the Apex can tell me when I'm getting low on additives?

×
×
  • Create New...