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Posts posted by JMsAquarium
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Just now, Mbheat77 said:
I have 1 in my cart on Amazon, do u know any place I can walk in and buy it.
Some times Lowes and Home Depot carry them. Go to their plumbing dept,
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1 minute ago, Mbheat77 said:
Not sure which one us Tom, but everyone has been extremely helpful. So much that I'm ready to get my stuff and start my tank over today. I'm excited to see how I can get it now that I have a little more knowledge. Thanks to all.
Tom is Origami. He is one of the most experienced people in the club and an awesome person. A true friend and gentleman :-)
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Glad we can help you out. Looks to me that your RODI unit mayyy be the cause of all your issues. But by fixing it it will/should solve the water "mystery"
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1 minute ago, howaboutme said:
Looks like Tom is taking good care you.
If that fitting leaving the DI is shot and it's more than the fitting, you can easily get a replacement canister. Those just screw to the metal bar and easily replaced if necessary. You're almost there!
True, and they are standard sizes so very easy to replace.
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7 minutes ago, Mbheat77 said:
Ok I did try that when I was taking the pics. It was almost dripping out when my waster line is pouring out fast. Like the waste line will fill up a 5gal bucket in about 3-5 minutes.
Yes the waste line does pour out a lot of water, this is normal. At least in my experience.
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I remember years ago one of our members was poisoned by palytoxins while handling zoas. He ended up having to go to the ER.
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Welcome Aaron, this club is made by great members with combines a huge knowledge. You will find here a lot of help and advice here
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34 minutes ago, Mbheat77 said:
Thanks I am getting 1
And also get a bottle of calibration liquid. It's only a few $$. I calibrate mine once a month and miner adjustments are almost always needed. A refractometer and calibration fluid is one of the cheapest and safest investments that you will ever make in this hobby. Always test your tank water AND your new saltwater mix to ensure that they are at the same salinity levels before you do a water change.
This is the refractometer that I have
And the calibration fluid
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For salinity, you should use a refractometer
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Phosphates can/may be the cause. Have you tested with a reliable test kit? Phosphates tend to bond to rock and sand bed. If that is your case, the best course of action is to run a GFO media reactor. It will reduce the phosphates levels within a few days. That is providing that all the other levels are within an acceptable range
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Good looking tanks. Welcome to Wamas and the East coast
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19 hours ago, rrubberbandman said:
All.
I ended up doing the 2 blue + , 1 Actinic , 1 Coral plus. Beautiful mix!
pictures!!! Pictures!!!
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That is correct in my experience. The bulkheads are labeled by the plumbing that fits in. So a 1.5 bulkhead accepts a 1.5 pipe
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Wow very cool.
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I use a 150 gpd Typhoon III Extreme from Air Water Ice. i have been using it for over 15 years and am very happy with it.
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Looking good, you are doing an a awesome job
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Reviving this thread since the lst post is from 2013. What do you people use as dips for new corals? Preventative and cure
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Awesome. I’d rather buy from you than from a store. It’s helps sustainability.
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@DaJMasta, this is an awesome post. I love it. Please keep it going. Congratulations. If you ever decide to sell some of them, please let me know.
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Try to speak to Flowerseller. He used to have the largest clam I ever saw. That thing was about 20 yers old and the size of a basketball. No kidding
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For what is worth, I just placed an order today 20 Aug 2021, for filters and a membrane for my Typhoon III . The 10% discount code is still valid and works
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As DaJMasta mentioned, in a well, you should have none or almost no chlorine/chloramine. The purpose of the DI resin is mainly to remove those. Which is a must have when the water source is from the city
Question
in General Discussion
Well done Tom. At least that's an issue checked out off the list.