Need Help Planning the Plumbing

[makai531]

Tank is drilled and painted and I need to get moving on the plumbing. Please help with any and all advice.

 

75g with two 1" drains in a CPR overflow box. Bulkheads are slip-slip. Two 3/4" returns BH thread-thread.

 

Sump is a Eschopps RS100, two compartments (no refugium). Future plans may be a 29g DIY sump with refugium.

 

Plan to use a Mag5 return pump until budget will allow upgrade to DC6000. Pretty sure on this, but can't swing it now.

 

Need to buy all fittings except I have braided vinyl in 3/4" and 1" and a 3/4 true union.

 

Here are my diagrams-

Drains

 

Returns-

 

Questions-

1. Any problems with or suggestions on my diagrams?

 

2. With the mag5 being underrated for tank and future upgrade of DC pump, will a ball valve suffice for return, above the check valve?

 

3. Should I install gate valves for both returns ?

 

4. Am I correct that the emergency drain just needs to empty into anywhere into the sump, not necessarily into the filter sock?

 

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but this is a good start. Any and all help is appreciated!

[WheresTheReef]

Looks like your build is coming along.

 

I like to use the slip/thread (slip on head side) bulkheads for drains. Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't the slip on the outside require you to cut off the bulkhead if you need to remove it down the line (e.g. bad gasket). Maybe won't be the case, but just want to put it out there.

 

I prefer to use gate valves over ball valves. I have a couple ball valves in my plumbing and they are really stiff to adjust. I can appreciate the price difference, but don't want you to regret using ball valves down the line like me. 

 

The emergency drain doesn't need a gate valve and can drain anywhere into the sump. However, I like to have my drains in the same location.

 

You could consider a remote refugium down the line and keep your existing sump.

Edited June 8, 2014 by WheresTheReef

[makai531]

Thank you Wheresthereef. Your comment about slip vs thread made me remember that I do have a 3rd 1" BH (slip-thread) that I can use. It did not "match" the others as it has a significantly larger flange. If it will fit behind the box, I can use that as the primary drain.

 

5. As far as the valves on the returns, it's wise and necessary to install two gate valves, one for each individual return line, to tweak the flow, right?

 

6. As far as a shut off valve near the pump, should that be a ball for quick shut off in an emergency, taking into consideration each return may have their own adjustable gate valve? There will be a check valve there too. Worried about too many appliances killing my return pressure of the MAG5.

 

I have a tendency to overthink these kind of things to the point of stalling. Anyone else that can comment I'd appreciate it. I'd like to buy some parts today and Lowes is not around the corner.

[Rob A]

Be very careful with those threaded bulkheads. I have had several of them split on me, not during assembly but after they were installed and everything was running, because apparently I tightened the pvc adaptor fittings too tightly to them.

[WheresTheReef]

5. Yes I would build a manifold that provides a gate valve for each line coming out of the pump. It just gives you the flexibility to tweak the flow along each line. I would also consider adding 1 extra outlet for future expansion (e.g. for media reactors, etc.).

 

6. If your pump will be external (outside sump) I would put a shut-off valve to allow you to remove the pump for maintenance. If it is submersible, then I wouldn't bother since each line has its own valve. In an emergency just unplug the pump instead of choking it down completely.

 

Make sure and make a good list since lowes is far away. I like to dry fit my valves, tees, elbows etc at the store to make sure everything fits as expected. Don't forget small things like the teflon tape, pvc glue, clamps for the tubing, etc. It seems that it almost always requires an additional trip to the store for that small thing you forgot.

 

Good luck and have fun!

[makai531]

Next question on the Herbie- drain bulkheads are going to be connected to "tees". Does the top tee cap get glued or is it supposed to be only dry fit? Kinda confused by the "full syphon" concept. The cap must be air tight, right, but on the Dursos, they drill holes.

[WheresTheReef]

I would assume that a tight dry fit would be ok, but I will let someone else with experience with a tee + cap address that question. I just used an elbow (like you are planning for your returns) for the drains on my herbie setup.

 

By making small adjustments with the gate valve, you are trying to closely match the return water flow rate in the pipe. This keeps the water level right above the primary drain to prevent air from entering the pipe with the water. No air = no gargling sound.

 

Are you planning to use elbows for the inside of the drains' bulkheads? I didn't see them in your diagram. Using them helps keep the water level above your primary drain and just under your emergency drain. Point the primary drain's elbow down and the emergency drain's elbow up. 

[makai531]

To clarify, I'm putting on the tee's because that is what I've seen online. I assumed that they are the first fitting on the outside in order to provide an easy way to clean the drain pipes (???). 

 

The easiest, as well as the lowest profile, first exterior fitting would be an 90 (inverted L) attached to the bulkhead, but I don't see that being used in most examples I've seen online. 

 

I have bought a boatload of different fittings and have found that to make the first connection detachable in order to facilitate the possible replacement of a bulkhead gasket and not 8" long with all the adapters (dont want it that far from the wall), I will need to purchase another 1" slip - thread bulkhead vs. the slip-slip BH I have. Plan to make first connection threaded Bulkhead to thread-thread connector to threaded tee. Does this seem right? 

 

Apologize if this is confusing in the way I am describing it. 

 

 

Are you planning to use elbows for the inside of the drains' bulkheads? I didn't see them in your diagram. Using them helps keep the water level above your primary drain and just under your emergency drain. Point the primary drain's elbow down and the emergency drain's elbow up. 

Yes I plan to use 90 elbows inside the overflow box, 1 up, 1 down. The emergency drains height will be adjusted up with a piece of PVC pipe inserted into 90 if necessary.

[WheresTheReef]

Either 1st exterior connector woud work. Most drains that I have seen using tees use a bean-animal style drain (3 drains). I prefer the elbow since it is the lowest profile and uses less parts. There are many ways to do it.

 

Some examples: 

 

With elbow:

90 elbow (slip)-(slip)bulkhead(thread)-(thread)90 elbow(slip)-pipe-(slip)union(slip)...

 

With tee:

90 elbow (slip)-(slip)bulkhead(thread)-(thread)connector/nipple(thread)-(thread)tee-(slip)-pipe-(slip)union(slip)...

[WheresTheReef]

How's the build coming along?