Best means to get my calcium fix?

[Guest Edwardj]

I am fairly new to this, and have decided I want to try to make things as simple as possible. A peaceful house is much more likely too when I don't have as much equipment or spend as much time "maintaining." So, I have used kalkwasser - very rudimentary setup. I use a 5 gallon bucket, mix in the powder, wait, and then slow drip it into the sump. I use a 3/8" rigid line, with a plastic check valve slightly cracked, start a siphon, and let it go. I am nervous though about spilling this apparently caustic concoction, or the tube being pulled out and spilling my ro/di Kalked water all over.

 

I have been talking and reading, and I have some assumptions. I am leaning towards a retail calcium reactor. I'd like to see if my assumptions are in line with the conventional wisdom on these matters.

 

First, calcium reactor vs. Kalk reactors.

 

Calcium reactor: To the positive: The substrate used will essentially give me all the calcium and most trace elements I need, assuming it is set up correctly. It seems that ONCE it is initially set up, it runs pretty well on its own. There is little to no risk of "poisoning" my tank, for the system will only make enough calcium as the PH can handle - so I can focus less on "alkalinity" and buffers. The media is cheap, and last for a long time (depending on the hunger of the system, of course).

 

On the Negative: The reactor needs a CO2 source, which is most often supplied with CO2 gas. The gas is not prohibitively expensive, but the regulator, solenoid, tank, ph sensor, (optional calcium sensor and/or controller) can get quite pricey. Counting bubbles can be a little dicey.

 

 

Kalk reactor: Kalkwasser, essentially calcium hydroxide, can be mixed with RO/DI water, to produce calcium that can be dripped into the sump. The positive: the Reactor is much cheaper, because there is no CO2 equipment to deal with.

 

to the Negative: If your buffer is not strong enough, you can dramatically drop the PH in your system if a mistake is made, potentially wiping out livestock and possibly even corals. CAOH (kalk) is potentially a quite hazardous substance - if it is used carefully it is harmless, but some powder residue left on something where a child could rub his hands, or a dog would lick (my dog licks anything that looks like it might have a taste) could have some pretty adverse effects. Kalk will not add trace elements.

 

Have I covered the pros and cons well enough? I know the calcium reactor is overall more expensive, but looking down the road, I like the stability of it seems to offer, as well as the lightened maintenance burdens.

 

 

DIY vs. Retail

 

I love to build my own things - I built my tank stand er - that is I am still building my tank stand. It seems to be more of a work in progress since I've decided to add a hood. I have heards though that the materials can be pretty expensive, and some hard to obtain - yet, there is the "DIY calc reactor" thread. The upside of retail is that these folks have thought of some things I may overlook, and I can probably get a more compact unit if i buy it. I am getting tight on space, and my tank is in the living room of my condo - I've already hidden the RO/DI unit under the sink and run a water supply line to the tank through crown molding, and a waste return back to the drain. Problem is I've used up all my hiding spaces.

 

Lastly, one vendor told me he swears by Aquamedic. They have one that is selfcontained - and can be put in the sump or outside, and can run independently of the top-off system. Any thoughts? Have I missed any major elements to the comparison of calcium vs. Kalk?

 

I look forward to the winter Meeting, this will be my first.

 

 

EdwardJ

[ErikS]

Pretty much right on the money except for a few tweaks.

 

A CA reactor might be better called an ALK reactor*. It can drive the ALK of a tank way out of line w/ the resultant disaster. You'll be hard pressed to get one, as you mention due to PH, to drive the CA to bad levels. Also, when driven hard a CA reactor can drive the PH of the tank down because it's constantly cycling 6.x PH water into the tank. It doesn't generally drive them to un-healthy levels, just the low side of normal. They are tricky to setup but nothing to maintain - run for months w/o any intervention as you mention.

 

A kalk reactor can easily drive the PH of the tank to un-healthy levels. This can be alleviated by mixing schedule to a degree (not using saturated solution all the time). Yes, the stuff is hazardous....but...easily controlled. You only add it when necessary & the unit is sealed = no access to the lime. A kalk reactor will have a hard time keeping up with a heavy demand as you can only evap so much water (= how much kalk you can add).

 

IMHO -

 

High Demand (SPS or Clams) tank = CA reactor, possibly in conjunction w/ Kalk reactor

 

Moderate demand (LPS) = Kalk reactor, cheaper to run & install

 

Low Demand (softies) = addtives, use DIY additives to lower the cost.

 

DIY vs Retail -

 

A kalk reactor is a fairly simple build, very easy for the handy type. A CA reactor is much more difficult & for a "one off" build it's not really worth it. *cough* I might pick up the one in the sales corner = very good price.

 

* - Credit to Chip for giving it this name