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Kalk Stirrer


dandy7200

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Next on the board is a pair of grande Fluidized Reactors. These will be a new design that I have not ever seen but, have some really good ideas for them.

Well.....come on........get with the program..........I've still got the extra tube sitting around :lol:

 

Seriously, I look forward to seeing the design.

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That makes sense to me. My reasoning is that it would be foolishly unsafe to run a years worth of kalk at any given time. Again, I chose to work with this design because of the safety factor that I feel it provides. I plan to load the reactor with 2 months worth of kalk and replenish monthly, so I always have enogh to do the job. Deltec suggest a 1/2" of undisolved kalk at the bottom at all times, this seems excessive but, like you said it will just be something that is monitored over the next few years.

I will run the unit 24/7. It turns slow and steady. As you know I only dose kalk at night for a few reasons but, the reactor will always be turning. I do plan to put a JG tee and a valve on the inlet side of the reactor (bottom) so that draining for maintenence is simple. One thing that I have read that is consistant with km500 owners, if Rowakalk is used the reactor only needs a yearly cleaning.....

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Alright after bench testing for a bit, I hooked it up to my system and startied running it through it's paces. Anyone want to guess how this turns out? Let me give you a hint......It has to do with that 90 elbow in the top of the stirrer.

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I actually have no patience for guessing games.....The water level rose perfectly as the peri pump was doing its thing, then when kalkwasser started to flow....swooosh....surge device LOL Pulled the elbow out and drilled a 3/16" hole and shoved a 1" piece of airline in it and all is good.

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  • 2 years later...

What do you use to seal motor section from the kalk section? Particularly where the rod goes through to join with the motor section.

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What do you use to seal motor section from the kalk section? Particularly where the rod goes through to join with the motor section.

 

On the old style dc motors I just left a 1/32" gap for the rod to turn. Drill a vent hole in the motor housing or not put one on and moisture was never a reported problem with the design. The newer style ones I make now with ac motors require a complete and total seal at this location, there is a retainer ring built into the motor and that ring diameter is CNC milled through the lid so only the shaft is exposed on the wet side, yet it freely turns.

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