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Posts posted by F&Fmgr
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ive always used fishman chemicals
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Carbon dosing with an Alk above 9 will do it
+1
IME as well. Especially with NO3 and PO4 that low...
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Pump arrived from Coralvue a few days ago, looked like a new pump but it had the same serial number..just hooked it up and its purring like a kitten...Awesome support by F&F and Coralvue.
Hey, I got your Radium in finally!!
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I stand by my opinion.
If you stated it as opinion, then bygones. But when you state it as fact, and you dont even know the facts you're breeding misinformation. This is my biggest problem with stores like that, they give the hard working people in this industry that make ethical decisions as to where they purchase animals a bad name.
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Puppies that are sold in pet stores are puppy mill dogs.
Tisk Tisk
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If you guys are having trouble getting your filter socks white again, try rinsing with a super dose of prime or other strong dechlorinator. Helps remove the dirt and the bleach thats stuck to it.
Sean
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The secondary benefit to running biopellets is the healthy amount of bacterioplankton that develops in the water column. I believe the UV, if strong enough with proper flow through, would eliminate this. On an ULNS the bacterioplankton feed your corals, without it I believe the potential for coral stress is high. Now on the other hand, I run Biopellets And 8x57w UV stacked consecutively above the return pump with great results, but there are no corals in that system.
Hope that helps
Sean
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Aiptasia eliminating critters and their associated difficulty:
1) Copperband. Eats any small anemones/tube worms/feather dusters in the wild. Better than a 50% chance it will die in captivity. Not recommended for noobs.
2) Raccoon Butterfly/Auriga Butterfly. Both eat Aiptasia and fare better than the Copperband.
3) Berghia Nudis. Eats Aiptasia well. Delicate. Avoid powerheads. You need lots of them- 24 or more in a 4' tank.
4) Peppermint Shrimp. Atlantic types eat Aiptasia, Pacific types do not. You need lots of them- 24 or more in a 4' tank.
5) Tassled filefish. Aiptasia Destroyer. 1 or 2 per 4' tank.
Wow never thought I'd say this, but I agree with Rob...
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I have seen them at Roozens for sale before.
lol
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light is only half the equation to bleaching....water clarity is also a factor. Like in a new tank....
Sean
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i dont stock parts, but can help with what you'd need if you were shopping around. But BRK definitely has the best selection of hard to find parts and essentials.
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swim gem on catoctin
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they are great for business, everyone that goes there has come to my store with issues, which I readily help them to correct. Once the customers have success, they buy livestock from me....like I said, Ive actually seen an increase in business since they opened lol
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Hello,
Currently, I'm using a Mag18 as the return pump for a 300g tank, and a Mag12 as the return pump for the other 150g tank.
The hight of each setup is 6 feet.
I have a ReeFlo Dart pump, I'm thinking of using it to replace the other pumps.
Can it works? Can I T-off to two 1" lines and have enough "turn over water" for each tank (at 6 feet)?
Thanks,
No I dont think so, as it is a flow biased pump and doesnt handle head pressure.
Sean
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glad I could help David! Thats what we're here for.... now if you start asking for bags like Copps does, I may have to start charging you lol!!
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top notch pumps for sure. I have used them as closed loop pumps and return pumps, assuming you dont provide too much head pressure in the use of elbows, valves, and downsized pipes; they really move a ish ton of water.
Sean
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Found this on a RC forum, and thought others may like this idea. I had never heard of this before.
"The GPD ratings are for room temperature (~70° F). Colder water travels more slowly through the membrane, which reduces the output. If you have a high-GPD unit connected to your cold water line, that can be a problem. Here's a solution (from Marc Levenson):
You want approximately 25' or 30' feet of tubing from the connection at the cold water running to the RO/DI unit.
Fill a 5-gallon bucket with water, and coil the excess tubing in the bucket so it is submerged. Immerse a small aquarium heater and set it to 78° F. As the RO/DI unit kicks on, water in the tubing will be warmed up to 78° as well, since it processes rather slowly, and the membrane will be able to produce maximum output in the dead of winter."
Cool idea!
Simple and cheap fix! thanks for sharing.
Sean
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I see a very large tank upgrade in the future....
Has anybody tried using Lanthanum Chloride from a pool supply store for quick reduction of phosphates?
yUP, AND BOY DOES IT WORK QUICKLY. NEED TO HAVE A SETTLING CHAMBER FOR THE PRECIPITATE THO. SORRY CAPS LOCK.
sEAN
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the TDS from the IN line is around 200. It's a BRS 4 stage 75GPD that I upgraded with the 150GPD.
do you have enough line pressure for the 150 gpd? Check the manufacturers spec sheet.
Sean
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careful, with8 hypo if its velvet(spots) that you're seeing, it will erupt! i know i have some quinine sulfate as well as some chloroquine diphosphate. both of these, i believe are suitable alternatives to CuSO4 for angels. as for the secondary bacterial infection, and the swollen eye, research nitrofurazone dips. i have some of that as well, to which you are more than welcome.
hope that helps
Sean
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Byron?
lol^^^
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ive got an oak0 stand sitting in tmy garage
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Noga's book is one of the best.
+1
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sqwds cant handle the back pressure from the non input port. they tend to freeze. the only viable option would be check valves above each port
I love this hobby and it's variety...but...to smoke it??? Some people go a little far LOL.
in General Discussion
smoke a joint debbie downer...