F&Fmgr
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Posts posted by F&Fmgr
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Also just thought of this. Is that eggcrate new? If so try putting in your sump where theres no light long enough for the eggcrate to develop b a bio film and possibly calcareous algae prior to having high powered lights beam down on it. new eggrate is amagnet to dinos and GHA.
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IME it also helps to shut off DTL( daytime lights) for a couple days to limit the algaes growth potential. Keep on the kalk DRIPPING, and if you can position the kalk effluent to be processed by your skimmer prior to recirculation.
I hate dinos. You can beat them, just have to be a little persistent. Healthy corals aren't usually affected by algae, but algae is usually an indicator that your current levels are more conducive to algae growth than coral growth. if you've recently started using a new food be sure to rinse the packaging oils off of the food.
In one of my old systems, Dinos were how I knew to recharge my Kalkstirrer.
Good luck!
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Tom= " the voice of reason"
the science behind raising Alk or dKh is as follows. Your fish are constantly breathing O2 out of and CO2 in to the water column. Therefore giving you a steady supply of carbonic acid. Carbonic acid is detrimental for 2 reasons; algae food(energy) and a softening (neutralizing) of hard water by reacting with carbonates. This is literally what is meant by "buffering your pH"; to have more carbonates input to your aquarium than you have carbonic acid produced on a daily basis. Dripping kalkwasser into your sump is aproven method of growing coral and eliminating algae growth by neutralizing carbonic acid and improving saponification in your protein skimmer. Not to mention that Calcium Hydroxide causes PO4 to precipitate on a small level as well.
HTH
Sean
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Dripping kalk is bad now? lol There are likely a lot of reefers that would disagree with that statement.
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Dinoflagellates
raise alk to 10-12 deg until gone. Kalkwasser works best for this
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darn Francis. Hang in there, just salvage and reset then rebuilding will come with time.
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Scale distension can be a sign of external parasites, or one of the digeneans life stages. If the healthy scales lay flush, un unhealthy scale looks akin to a ruffled feather. I wouldn't use prazi in a tank with inverts as Ive never tried and wouldn't advise it; molting crustaceans might have sensitivity to the meds. Corals would rerspond defensively, causing stress but I don't think theres toxicity. Seahorses should be fine, but I would check with a seahorse authority, bc I am not. For external parasites buffered FW dips are effective. But only against the larva attached to the fishes epithelium. This addresses only one stage in its life cycle. For example when treating digenean flukes in my previous location, I would first acclimate the fish to hypo salinity ( 1.009 ~1.012). Then I would administer Copper sulfate; I liked copper power because it had long term water solubilty unlike cupramine. The for the two weeks they were in treatment I would administer praziquantel solubilized in cheap vodka and administer a bath. The length of the bath was different depending the type and severity of infection as well as overall health of the fish during treatment. Hypo eliminates a majority of the larva, copper sulfate eliminates the remainder of the larva and young adults, while the prazi once in the fishes system will cause adults to drop off. Point being there are several treatment methods available, just be cognizant of which life stage you are targeting with your treatment and which may still pose a threat.
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any white strings in the feces or pock marks or scratches from flashing?
IME flukes can cause this from distension; watch for adult parasites to be discharged in the feces (white string). Praziquantel is a harmless prophylactic that will cause the paraites to exit en masse. DO NOT USE PRAZI PRO. If it is swimm bladder, difficulty swimming does not conclude it to be so exclusively; if swim bladder was the culprit then a loss of equilibrium would be evident as well. If it is iz intestinal parasites, then reducing the feeding can also cause the adult stage parasites to evacuate to find another host. HTH
Sean
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all the "Old heads". Good to see you all still have the fever. Now just waiting for Rob the troll to come say hi; its raining today so he might be out from under his bridge....
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Selcon is super contentrated amino acids; which means tons of available Nitrogen. Not to mention too much selcon will cause claoudy water in smaller tanks that aren't afforded any protein skimming. try feeding without the selcon for a week or two and see if the bloom diminishes.
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haha. I have to pinch myself everyday to make sure I'm not dreaming.
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hope everyones tank is doing well. I have been enjoying the last few years of dry feet and dry shirts
.Any older heads left on the boards?
I have retained most of my knowledge with regards to pathology, and will help with fish disease and QT questions. I don't think I'll be getting back into the hobby, industry or business just yet as I am happily employed outside of the industry.
If any of you have generators or are contemplating the purchase of one I may be able to help with purchase, install and yearly maintenance. Tom, if this is inappropriate I'm sure someone will get you to nudge me
cheers,
Sean G
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check your in and out connections.
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If it were me, I'd guess that the nutrients that are introduced via feeding are being removed faster than the LPS can absorb them. I base that thought on the fact that the parameters and lighting are normal, and accepting the assumption that nothing is preying on the LPS.
You can test that by keeping the return pumps off for an hour or two post feeding and see if the corals perk up after a week.
+1
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open the bleed line and apply back pressure on the output. I believe from working with these when they first came out that bc its pressurized it doesn't have to "fill" with water the water still fills the media chamber. HTH
Sean
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Yes, it could be sand particles stuck to his slime coat. If they are still there tomorrow then it might be ich or a similar parasite. How is the breathing? If rapid breathing then it is ich as ich normally attacks the gills first.
+1. Spit caught in the slime coat
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voted
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I highly doubt theres parasites in any frozen foods. They would have to be larval to host anything other than a fish if Im not mistaken. A larval ectoparasite would not survive frezzing temps. Don't know about endo though. But again, these companies aren't scraping the bottom of the barrel for their food supplies. I think you have a real chance of developing bacteria on the frozen food. Just as if you were to continually thaw frozen human grade seafood
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why you droolin, sean? A bunch of those corals were from your store
They always look better in someone else tank though
Just ask Francis (gionva) lol
Looks great Ha
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Lol does she make you breakfast in bed when you post this?
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
LOL'ed so hard soda came through my nose
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I'm familiar with the unit. What are you using it on? Calcium reactor? CO2 reactor for planted tank? I tried using those on a calcium reactor and blew 2 of them out. I don't think they are designed to handle any sort of back pressure whatsoever. Now the one I have running on my planted tank in the store sometimes needs to be "opened" to clear the line. This is also true for a line with a true CO2 check valve. Like I said, these units are great for precision, but bunk for pressure applications, I think primarily because they have a digital regulator and diaphragm, as opposed to a mechanical one like the blueline or miluakee. HTH
Sean
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Does anyone know the best way to remove drool from a key board?
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FWIW I keep my sub zero freezer at -10F, since entering this hobby I've always kept it below 0F. I was told by an old school reefer that this was the only way to avoid unintentional minor thawing when preparing fish food. No science there, just anecdotal. Its always worked for me. However I think it is 100x more likely that the parasite would be introduced through an intermediary host such as mollusks, crustaceans, bivalves, hermits, and arthropods. The chance of a larval parasite just being on something that it cannot host is IME very low; frag plugs, macro, etc. Although if you purchase something from a tank that houses fish as well and happens to have a high load of parasites then your chances would most definitely be higher.
Anyone doing a load of filter socks?
in General Discussion
I used to, in a 5 gallon bucket, add hot water, bleach and filter socks. I would stir the bucket with a 1" x 18" PVC piece. Leave sit over night. RInse the next morning then soak in Prime for half a day, stirring at least once. Then rinse and reuse. Interestingly enough Ive found that using a dechlor like prime really whitens them up.