sde219
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Posts posted by sde219
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Hmmm...never thought of that second part. Here's a pic. What do you think?
Sorry, couldn't post the pic for some reason (probably has something to do with noob status .) Here is a link to it on Picasa: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3VG00...key=Da03t9QApjY
That looks like a Mojano Anemone to me.
How many of these bad boys do you have?
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Anyone interested in a group buy from Ken's? I need a small list of items.
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I had a torch coral mounted on the side of my tank across but below and to the left of a powerhead. It seems that the powerhead flow shifted to be direct at the torch and it looks like it got beat up pretty bad - one or two heads just look droopy, but two look like they've shed skin. I'm debating pulling the whole colony out or fragging it. The tank and system is pretty small (33g) and relatively new (recently moved - 3 weeks). Any thoughts?
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Glad to hear that despite the problems - it's not ending terribly.
Sounds like you had good safety/preventative procedures in place.
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www.unitednuclear.com
It's wrong that I find the writeups on this website, such as the section before, funny?
Beware - you must think ahead when moving these magnets.
If carrying one into another room, carefully plan the route you will be taking. Sensitive instruments like computers & monitors will be affected in an entire room. Loose metallic objects and other magnets may become airborne and fly at great speed to attach themselves to these magnets. If you get caught in between the two, you can be severely injured. These magnets will crush bones in the blink of an eye.
Two of these magnets close together can create an almost unbelievable magnetic field that can be incredibly dangerous.
Of all the unique items we offer for sale, we consider these items the most dangerous of all. Our normal packing & shipping personnel refuse to package these magnets - our engineers have to do it. This is no joke or exaggeration - and we cannot stress it strongly enough. You must be extremely careful - and know what you're doing with these magnets.
Two Supermagnets can very easily get out of control, crush fingers and instantly break ribs or even your arm if opposing poles fly at each other.
A small child recently lost his hand when his father left two # 31 supermagnets unattended. The child picked one up and when he approached the other magnet on a nearby table,
it became airborne and obliterated his small hand.
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I read the topic title as "Fried Egg Crate."
You're actually not the only one.
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Glad to have read this story.
I stopped in almost exactly a month ago. I was pretty impressed by the bangai cardinals they were breeding. I was considering trying to get a pair down the line.
I was a little concerned about the business practices of the place though.
Sorry to hear that you had such a bad experience.
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How many Mr.Tang it's important, looks like we have Va picker uppers. We can always use more volunteers for Va pick up though.
I can be a VA picker-upper. I live right at Rt7/I66/I495.
I'm in for 3.
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I just got home from there.... loaded up on some goodies at a great price. If you want stuff, jump now because it was packed in there tonight!
I thought you just sold your tank? Find something new already?
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36x18 tank, which I think with individual reflectors will do with 6 bulbs. Open-top tank.
How do you want to do open-top with the retrofit? Are you planning to make an entire fixture, floating canopy, or something entirely different?
It's pretty easy to do the ballast connections - you can get plug sets or if you know some techie people with extra computer pieces, you can make quick-disconnects so that the canopy/fixture only has cords coming out and the ballasts are stored below.
Do you have ballasts to use or a preference on how to wire them? IE 2 bulbs per ballast, 4 to one ballast, or something different?
It'll be easier to map out a design with some of these restrictions in mind.
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You need the fourth adapter mentioned in the AWI post above. It does not pierce the braided hose like the saddle valve does. You have to unscrew the braided hose and insert this adapter between the braided hose and the supply line.
Here is a link to the part you need:
http://www.airwaterice.com/product/STVFPT/...aided_Hose.html
Hey Bob,
How would you recommend hooking into compression lines? I think the same valve would work but I'm dreading the thought of dealing with those connections.
Any advice?
Thanks,
Steve
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If you plan to refund him then you should get the item back asap before you refund him. It's common for people to claim they never received an item and file with paypal, screwing the seller out of the item and the money.
I think the item was left with a third party at a more convenient location for the buyer.
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It is what it is. If the person wants to go through paypal and try and screw me that way, its on them. I will do what paypal suggests and resell the item here, and post who was involved to warn others.
I just got annoyed when they demanded their money back, like I had done something wrong, then threatened paypal when I suggested we work through this.
Its not like it was something real expensive. On top of that, the same item just sold for 35% more on here recently, and it a year old - mine is new.
So getting my money back is no problem. To me its the principle of the whole thing.
If I didn't sell things for so cheap, or work hard at getting this item to the person without them having to burn gas and time, I probably wouldn't be so bumbed. But when someone does that to you when you go out of your way it just sucks.
Thanks for all your thoughts, and confirmations on this.
If it's any help, I'm driving from Falls Church to Pasadena on Sunday. If the item is along the way, I could at least get it back to you without you wasting gas.
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the item was paid for and delivered to the designated place. the paypal claim cannot be substantiated.
Hard call, Paypal might agree it was not delivered to the buyer.
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Congrats Doug. That's really great.
Please keep us posted on how it goes and what works for you.
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I really like the rockwork you setup at the beginning. Made the 30 look larger than it is. It looks great for placing corals and providing plenty of open space. Can you post a new Full Tank Shot?
Any verdict on what was killing your fish?
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Also on the DSB. You have to realize there are millions of colonies of bacteria in the sand. When you go to move the sand your going to distrupt the colonies resulting in loss of the bio filtration. I have heard bad things about tryn to move DSB, you could have the opposite effect and have a Bio-Hazard.
I definitely understand this one. I've heard a variety of things about the bio-benefit versus bio-hazard aspect of DSBs particularly when moving one. Because of the fish involved a sandbed of some depth is necessary. Does anyone have any specific advice on moving a DSB?
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meh kalk paste on dose worked for me to kill all of mine on my old rock that i bought for a dollar a pound, it's up to you. I'm assuming you're talking about the 54 corner set up?
That would be the one. I was trying be vague because I don't want to disparage the item for sale. I was just pretty disappointed to see a decent number of Majanos. I suspect using kalk would be a solid option.
I've got other concerns about moving an existing setup particularly one with a deep sandbed also. I was kinda hoping that getting an existing setup might provide for a plug-and-play type tank. This more likely to spend a few weeks challenging me.
You could always boil the rocks to get rid of all the nasties and then re-cure the rock.
If that's really the case, then the setup is too much immediate hassle because the rock has a decent amount of colonies, msshrooms, and ricordeas I would want to keep and it's the biofilter for some fish I'd like to keep alive.
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I'm looking into buying a reef setup locally. I'm planning to keep all of the livestock(perhaps sans a tang), corals, rock, and equipment. I'll be selling the tank/stand because I'd prefer to use a 65g tank I already own and will be able to plumb in advance of receiving the existing setup.
Unfortunately, the tank has a pretty large population of Majano anemones - on the rock, on zoo colonies, near ricordeas.
The setup is arguably fairly priced but I'm trying to decide whether getting back into the hobby with a immediate issue in the tank is too much of a hassle to combat.
I'd really like to let the existing owner know whether or not this is a problem that 1) I could deal with at the existing price, 2) maybe I should ask for a discount in light of the issue, 3) is too much trouble for someone who was buying an existing setup largely for the convenience.
Any advice?
Thanks in advance.
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Post up in this thread: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25387 if you plan on attending! Let Sean know what to expect at his shindig!
Wish I could make it. For some reason, my reserve center schedules drill every single weekend I'd rather be doing something else. This weekend I miss the social, December I miss the meeting. It kind of reminds me why I never made a meeting when I first joined by in 2004.
Here's hoping the spring meeting doesn't hit both of the mandatory weekends in April and May.
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Next year's event will be even bigger and better for sure!!
But there's still a week left to pre-register for this year's event, otherwise you can pay at the door. Anyone able to make it up?
Anyone up for a day trip for this? My car gets solid gas mileage so hopefully this won't be too pricey of a trip. I'm mostly intriqued to see a frag swap this large.
Steve
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Terry and Patti:
My apologies for RSVPing and then bugging out. A group of friends wanted to go to Great Country Farms yesterday and I don't think I can do the drive on back to back days.....too much stuff to do around the house. Maybe if Doug is up for a tank tour in the near future, I'll beg to swing by check out the 750+ gallons.
Thanks for your hospitality though.
Steve
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FYI - that is the day that the GARF people, Leroy and Sally Jo, are talking at the CMAS meeting.
GARF just cancelled on CMAS.
Count me in for the tour. Can we bring anything?
Thanks,
Steve
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Bob points out some lacking crucial details.
Hoping to use a generic glass tank - probably 40g or 58g. I'd do the drilling myself.
pump timing
in General Discussion
I have a Koralia set to start 30 minutes after my halide comes on and turns off 30 minutes before the halide shuts down. I have no real reason for doing this other than I get the feeling that some of my corals don't like as much flow when the polyps aren't open - they retract more tightly under high flow than they do with limited flow. I also like changing the current/flow in my tank to stir up some settled waste and get it to move to the overflow.
It's my understanding that some pumps handle the wear and tear of going on and off better than others but I haven't researched it much because I'm not cycling this pump on a tight cycle.
Just my experience and my opinion.