ChrisRD

Never tried them myself, but maybe... http://www.orionfans.com/

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showpro....6&Sub=1

Anything is better than a SeaClown. :D A Remora Pro or a TurboFlotor Multi should do the trick...

I'd use it.

I really like the JG fittings too. They're not cheap, but very convenient. You can use the bulkhead union, or a male adapter (if you're working with something you can drill/tap) for connecting to tanks as well. I've gotten quite a bit of stuff from HD locally, and online when ordering from Marine Depot

Although I agree that a drilled tank is preferable, there are plenty of people who've run hang-on overflows for years without problems - it can be done. By reputation, the more reliable ones seem to be the u-tube type. A quality unit like a Lifereef or something similar is a good choice (www.lifereef.com). Be sure to clean the u-tube(s) frequently as any algae build-up can cause problems. As for tank or sump flooding concerns, a correctly designed system should not allow for either whether it's a drilled tank or using a hang-on overflow. Drilling an anti-syphon hole as Robert mentioned, or simply not having your return line submerged very far will minimize the amount of water than can be back-syphoned into the sump in a power-off situation. If you run the waterline low enough in your sump to accomodate whatever does syphon down when power is off, you won't flood the sump. To minimize the chance of flooding the main tank it's the same principle in reverse. Figure the volume from where your water line normally runs (determined by the height of your overflow box) to the top of the tank. This gives you the volume that the the main tank could accomodate before overtopping in the event that the overflow box loses syphon or the drain line plugs. Now, place a divider in your sump (from an inch or two under the regular waterline to the bottom of the sump) to create a chamber (that will normally be submerged) at the return pump side. If the drain line plugs or the overflow syphon fails, the return pump can only draw your sump level down to the height of that last divider - then it will just empty that last chamber out before it runs dry. If you place the divider so as to only allow the return pump access to a water volume that is less than the reserve volume you have in the main tank - no flood. The only other concern in the event of a drain blockage or failed overflow syphon is your return pump running dry. This would happen whether your tank is setup as above or not. The above setup just eliminates the flooding issue. If you want to protect your return pump, you can put it on a float switch that will shut it off if the sump waterline drops too far, preventing it from running dry. Let me know if that's not clear - I can probably post a sketch if needed. HTH

1.025 - 1.026

How's your circulation in the tank? Do you have good movement at the water surface? Protein skimmer? Are you dosing anything that raises pH (it's a bit elevated)? Just looking for clues...

Doh... ...just noticed the second part of your original question. You can use GE Type 1 silicone from Home Depot to reseal a tank (I've done it several times). Make sure to get the Window & Door stuff (blue & white tube), NOT bathroom stuff (anti-fungal additives). I'm sure there are other alternatives, but this is the only one I know is safe from first hand experience. You'll notice if you read the back of most silicones sold in hardware/home improvement places it will mention that it's not for aquarium use somewhere. With that GE stuff, you'll notice there is no such reference. Apparently some silicones don't perform well under constant immersion conditions and some have anti-fungal additives (both of which have obvious consequences for us aquarium folks :D ). That GE stuff has neither issue. Just use a razor blade to strip off any old silicone and use masking tape to outline the joint prior to applying the silicone. Apply a thick bead and run your finger up the joint. Quickly pull the masking tape off before the silicone gets tacky. You should have a nice, even looking joint with neat edges. BTW... ...I would drill the tank for you or loan you the bit but unfortunately I don't have my tools down here (they're at my house up North) - sorry. Have fun! [tu]

It's a 75 gallon tank. I guess there's some benefit to going either way. Two holes is more plumbing, and if you're going with Dursos, Stockmans, etc. for silencing it's a PITA to get them working in harmony. OTOH, two drains are sorta nice in case one ever got plugged, but personally I've not had a big problem with that in the past provided I take a few precautions with the setup. For example I like putting a lid on the overflow box, keeping the tooth spacing reasonably tight (say 1/4") on the overflow and making the box out of an opaque material (no light = no algae). Putting an intake strainer on the inlet of the drain pipe is another option (although in this latest setup I didn't feel it was needed and didn't want to make the overflow box large enough to accommodate it). Another factor in the single drain thing for me was the bit. I already have a glass coring bit for 1-1/2" bulkheads. I'm putting about 900 GPH through the drain on this tank (after losses) so a single drain of that size was already more than big enough. HTH and good luck with your setup. [tu]

Here's a few pics of what I did FWIW... http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=644514#644514

:D

IMO the Remora is a better skimmer - I've run them both on the same tank. FWIW, you can put a heater in the output chamber of the Remora as well (I did).

OK, I see you edited the second message to clarify that it's the 9th. Thanks. That actually works better for me. :D Looking forward to meeting some WAMAS folks.

What Mike said... So it IS the 9th?