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Prinz

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Posts posted by Prinz

    question about rodi filters

    in General Discussion

    1 minute ago, flooddc said:

    Whenever my rodi water is tested high (around 10). I replaced all the filters except the membrane. Sediment and carbon are cheap so, it’s better to replace them.

    as for the membrane(s) the typical life is about 3 years. I always write a date on the housing of the membrane as a reminder. 

    do you change the di filter same time as the sediment and carbon?

    question about rodi filters

    in General Discussion

    good evening,

     

    test the tds of my ro unit today it came a lil high 25, so i guess its time to change filters, im just wondering if i have to change all the filter, sediment carbon and di, or just 1 or 2 of the filter,  i just dont want to waste a filter or 2 if it doesn't need to be change this time and/or how long does each filter last

     

    thanks in advance

    question about coral growth, coloration and phosphate control

    in General Discussion

    there has been a lot of input to the question and issues i am having in my tank, and i appreciate it very much, and to answer some questions

    10 hours ago, DFR said:

    From the FTS it looks like you are doing a good job with removal/remediation, it is just to pinpoint the source.  It looks like you have a powerheads on either side of the tank.  Are they stirring up a lot of the detritus and allowing it to make its way to the sump or are you mainly getting it during water changes?  If they run on alternating schedule, are they each rated for >1800gph?

    thanks, i try to although sometimes i do not have time, its hard when you work 70 hours a week sometimes, but i do try to manually remove them, yes i have 3 powerhead, 1 mp10 on the left side at 60% on random lagoon setting, a jebao pp4 on both side, on short pulse at 65 to 70%, and they run 24/7, and 1 return line pointed to the front of the tank and one mostly blowing towards the surface for water agitation

     

    11 hours ago, DFR said:

     However, since your skimmer is over-sized, that may pose an issue if you cut down on feeding.  Also, just out of curiosity, do you find yourself changing the settings on your skimmer often? Lastly, what does your fish stocking look like?  As mentioned previously, algae grazers and increased CUC may be a good idea.

    in fact yes sometimes, most of the time it skim dry, then sometimes it will overflow, 

     

    my fish stocking are as follow

     

    1 melanurus wrasse the devil

    1 starry blenny the accomplice

    2 clowns

    3 anthias

    1 banggii

    1 coral banded shrimp

     

    i tried to introduce 20 blue legged hermits but my melanurus jsut chomp on them overnight and those that was able to stay on my rocks the starry blenny picks them and drops them on the sandbed to the waiting melanurus

     

    4 hours ago, Piper27 said:

    If growth and color are something your trying to improve and nothing is really wrong, changing things, especially that list you wrote up, is going to give you the opposite result your looking for.  Sounds to me like you just need to let things go if things are growing, one year is about the point where you should be letting the tank do its own thing and let the corals grow.  Once things are growing and stable then you can worry about tweaking colors and growth.

     

    we all aspire for growth and coloration and all the good stuff, and i know this hobby is no overnight success, i appreciate your input, i might as well do that just that sit back relax and watch them grow and let it do what it needs to do,

     

    we'll see what happen in the next couple of weeks or month

     

    thanks all

    question about coral growth, coloration and phosphate control

    in General Discussion

    Just now, littlelise1985 said:

     

    I personally have been using nopox since I started. This product is great and is just another form of carbon dosing. To say that your issue is from this product does not do it justice.

    hi littlelise1985,

     

    its not i am saying that the issue with my tank was caused by nopox, i agree with you that it is a great product, it has in some way helped controlling the nitrates and phosphate, as of right now i am just trying to zero in what is helping me and what is not helping me, i am not saying that i will not be using nopox again if the need arise, basically right i am just doing the process of elimination, if the macros and water changes fix my problem then its a win win for me as it means less expenses on additives and more for corals :), if it is doing good for your tanks lucky you, continue with it, i wish it will continue to do so, again, im not saying that the problem my tank is having started with the nopox, i already have gha problem even before i even started using it

     

    hope that clears things, 

     

    thank you

    question about coral growth, coloration and phosphate control

    in General Discussion

    49 minutes ago, ImGoingCoastal said:

    Just my $.02 but Id limit the amount of things I change all at once. It makes it difficult to isolate the cause. And the side effects of changing so much so quickly could also result in bigger issues.

    -A-a-ron
     

    of course, i started yesterday, shut off gfo, will be doing water change this sunday and start with pulling back with the nopox it will prolly take me a week till i completely stop using nopox, then it will just be water changes and the macro from there going forward

     

    thank you

    question about coral growth, coloration and phosphate control

    in General Discussion

    3 hours ago, DFR said:

    How long were you running at those settings?  Have you seen much coral mortality shortly following addition at these settings?  Only asking because I feel like that may be too much light. I would personally decrease max intensity, or increase ramp up/down time and decrease from 8 hour hold time at max (while still keeping the same light on/off times).

     

    I’m also in-line with @gws3 in terms of color.  I honestly don’t remember the exact color setting my A360WEs originally ran at but they were pretty ‘white’.  I ran into a number of issues so decreased color to sub 50% (I believe at 40% at max).  Doing that helped combat a number of issues and kept algae growth in DT at a minimum.

    its been about 2 or 3 months since i started running these settings, luckily i never had any mortality after running this setting,, i have played with the setting with color at 80 and intensity at 15 ( or is that too low for intensity? ) for the kessil and just running blue at 70% and white at 15% on the hydra 26

     

    3 hours ago, ImGoingCoastal said:

    Just out of curiosity.... How old is the tank?

    -A-a-ron
     

    the tank is nearing its year old mark

     

    1 hour ago, A.ocellaris said:

    Dont go for zero phosphate or zero nitrates... it's even worse.

    i dont think i will reach 0 phosphate, reason me saying that is as some of my corals grow so are the gha, nitrates too, per the picture of the warcoral 

     

    as of today i am cutting feeding to once a day

    took off the GFO

    stop using nopox 

    and will be doing 10 gal/week water change instead of 5 or 7

    kessil is at 80 color and 15 intensity

    hydra 26 at 70 blue and 15 % white

    will be keeping my macro algae

    continue dosing alk and cal using 2 part doser to maintain calcium at 420 and alk at 10 magnesium is at 1400 

     

    am i still missing something??

     

    thanks

     

    question about coral growth, coloration and phosphate control

    in General Discussion

    thanks for all the input, 

    18 minutes ago, gws3 said:

    Get rid of the nopox, phos lock, all that unnatural stuff. 0.21 phosphate is not a problem. Just keep it steady by balancing out your water changes and how much you feed.

     

    Also, if your first few pics are true to life, turn down the white channels and intensity. You're going to grow more algae than corals with that intense white light.

    it is showing .21 on the test kit but i know it is off as green hair are growing also same time as the corals, will definitely turn down intensity and white channels when i get home today, water change is 5 to 7 gal a week and feeding is on timer twice a day but not a lot

     

    those pics are taken yesterday before i made this post 

     

    15 hours ago, YHSublime said:

    That's a lot of light. Possible that you might be blasting them with too much? You used a par meter?

    will be tuning down the light a bit later, nope i have not used a par meter 

    53622411_2041678725887824_6513000106868867072_n.jpg

    question about coral growth, coloration and phosphate control

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by Prinz
    unfinished detail

    let me start with what i have set up right now,

    my tank is an oceanic 67ish gal,

     

    36x18x24

     

    2 kessil a360 -8 hours total runtime at 100% intensity and color 1 hour each ramp time and ramp down

    1 hydra 26 hd  = 8 total hours runtime at 80 max white and blue, with 1 hour ramp time and ramp down

     

    skimmer rated for 120 gl

     

    running reactor with pura phos lock

     

    dosing 20 ml of red sea nopox

     

    cal = 425

    alk = 10

    mag 1450

    5

     

    just added 3 macro algae, ( all 3 are getting good grow rate )

     

    i have issue with phosphate and im still battling with it, hence the pura phos lock, nopox and jsut added the macro algae last week,

     

    what i dont understand is that i have some growth on some of my sps, and coloration on others but not all seems to be reacting the same way, is this normal?

     

    im not really complaining with whats going on with my lil ocean right now, i just to ask what do i need to make growth and color be a lil better

     

    thanks

     

    phos - .21

    nit - 1salinity = 1.02

    52886983_2384925441764805_8288931000289853440_n.jpg

    53513237_336048617026688_6655897036061147136_n.jpg

    rodi question

    in General Discussion

    3 hours ago, AlanM said:

    I believe the flow restrictor is normally on the waste water side.  The product water side is naturally restricted by the membrane itself....

     

    It should not be firing water out.  Is it possible that, like someone else recently, that you have the flush valve which bypasses the restrictor wide open?  That would cause the waste to fire out, but not the product water, though.  Or maybe they forgot to put a membrane in the RO chamber?  

    are all RODI unit the same as to where the waste water and product water comes out? please correct me if i am wrong and point me in the right direction, from what i read  for this particular RODI the waste water comes out of the membrane chamber and the product water comes out on the side next to one of the DI chamber, this one is the marine depot klean water model if that will be of any help

     

    thanks

    rodi question

    in General Discussion

    2 hours ago, Origami said:

    It sounds like your RO membrane is not seated in the housing. If that happens, the waste side basically shorts to the product side and, because there's a restrictor in the waste line, most all of the water will flow out the product side.

     

    Open the RO membrane cannister up and pull the membrane out. If it comes out easily, then it's probably not seated well. Push it back in and seat it and retry it. (There's an o-ring or two around the central tube at one end of the membrane. This is the end that goes into the housing first. Seating it requires that you push the membrane in firmly and all the way to drive these o-rings completely into the receiving end at the other end of the canister.)

     

    Also, if the unit has a flush valve on it, make sure the flush valve is closed. This should be your first check actually.

    thats what i did, pull out the membrane it is seated properly buthe 2nd seal, closer to the cap, has already deteriorated thats prolly why its like the membrane is not there anymore even if its still, anyway, this one doesnt have all the bells and whistles, its just the membrane casing and media casing no tds meter, pressure gauge nor flush valve. i have ordered a full replacement kit as the previous owner mentioned it has been sitting for a while, hopefully it will fix the issue, 

    rodi question

    in General Discussion

    thanks Jon, restrictor is about 6 inches long, i just spoke with marine depot rep and it seems like the membrane seal has been compromised, just ordered a whole replacement kit and hopefully that will fix the issue

     

    thanks again wamas 

    rodi question

    in General Discussion

    i just pick up a marine depot 100 gpd rodi and when i tried using the line the makes the product water is squirting water like there is no tomorrow, i check both lines and the waste water line has a flow restrictor inside and the product water has none, prolly why product water is pushing that much water and almost none on the waste water

     

    my question is that does the waste water and product water tubing need to have flow restrictors?

     

    thanks

    ATO quesion

    in General Discussion

    so i got home today and check my ATO and its working again, after i raise the float sensor a lil bit higher the sensor and lit up and the pumps kick in i hope it stay that way, 

     

    thanks for all the input in and when it happen again i will have ideas on what to do 

     

    thank you all again

    ATO quesion

    in General Discussion

    thanks all for all the inputs i will surely try them later,

    just a few

    pumps does pump water,

    i notice sensor light comes on on the unit but not the pump light,

    yes it does hqve to float switches 1 can be use as a fail safe so the pump wont run when there is no more or water os below minimum in the reservoir,

    thank you

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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