Prinz

thank you all

do you change the di filter same time as the sediment and carbon?

good evening, test the tds of my ro unit today it came a lil high 25, so i guess its time to change filters, im just wondering if i have to change all the filter, sediment carbon and di, or just 1 or 2 of the filter, i just dont want to waste a filter or 2 if it doesn't need to be change this time and/or how long does each filter last thanks in advance

as always thanks Origami for the input

thanks

is it normal for the water to turn milky white? i have added it to my top off water with another pump as circulation to the top off thank you

there has been a lot of input to the question and issues i am having in my tank, and i appreciate it very much, and to answer some questions thanks, i try to although sometimes i do not have time, its hard when you work 70 hours a week sometimes, but i do try to manually remove them, yes i have 3 powerhead, 1 mp10 on the left side at 60% on random lagoon setting, a jebao pp4 on both side, on short pulse at 65 to 70%, and they run 24/7, and 1 return line pointed to the front of the tank and one mostly blowing towards the surface for water agitation in fact yes sometimes, most of the time it skim dry, then sometimes it will overflow, my fish stocking are as follow 1 melanurus wrasse the devil 1 starry blenny the accomplice 2 clowns 3 anthias 1 banggii 1 coral banded shrimp i tried to introduce 20 blue legged hermits but my melanurus jsut chomp on them overnight and those that was able to stay on my rocks the starry blenny picks them and drops them on the sandbed to the waiting melanurus we all aspire for growth and coloration and all the good stuff, and i know this hobby is no overnight success, i appreciate your input, i might as well do that just that sit back relax and watch them grow and let it do what it needs to do, we'll see what happen in the next couple of weeks or month thanks all

hi littlelise1985, its not i am saying that the issue with my tank was caused by nopox, i agree with you that it is a great product, it has in some way helped controlling the nitrates and phosphate, as of right now i am just trying to zero in what is helping me and what is not helping me, i am not saying that i will not be using nopox again if the need arise, basically right i am just doing the process of elimination, if the macros and water changes fix my problem then its a win win for me as it means less expenses on additives and more for corals :), if it is doing good for your tanks lucky you, continue with it, i wish it will continue to do so, again, im not saying that the problem my tank is having started with the nopox, i already have gha problem even before i even started using it hope that clears things, thank you

of course, i started yesterday, shut off gfo, will be doing water change this sunday and start with pulling back with the nopox it will prolly take me a week till i completely stop using nopox, then it will just be water changes and the macro from there going forward thank you

i hope it wont since i was just using 10 ml/day, will be keeping an eye on the inhabitants how they react, but thanks for the heads up

its been about 2 or 3 months since i started running these settings, luckily i never had any mortality after running this setting,, i have played with the setting with color at 80 and intensity at 15 ( or is that too low for intensity? ) for the kessil and just running blue at 70% and white at 15% on the hydra 26 the tank is nearing its year old mark i dont think i will reach 0 phosphate, reason me saying that is as some of my corals grow so are the gha, nitrates too, per the picture of the warcoral as of today i am cutting feeding to once a day took off the GFO stop using nopox and will be doing 10 gal/week water change instead of 5 or 7 kessil is at 80 color and 15 intensity hydra 26 at 70 blue and 15 % white will be keeping my macro algae continue dosing alk and cal using 2 part doser to maintain calcium at 420 and alk at 10 magnesium is at 1400 am i still missing something?? thanks

thanks for all the input, it is showing .21 on the test kit but i know it is off as green hair are growing also same time as the corals, will definitely turn down intensity and white channels when i get home today, water change is 5 to 7 gal a week and feeding is on timer twice a day but not a lot those pics are taken yesterday before i made this post will be tuning down the light a bit later, nope i have not used a par meter

here it is, it is on ramp down timer, hydra 26 is about 1 ft from the top of the water and kessils are 8 inches from top of the water

i am using salifert and jsut started using red sea today but its giving me way too different result, i prolly will go get a 3rd opinion

these are my issue right now with coloration 1 is a rainbow mille and the other is rift raft something, if i remember it right, good growth and polyp but lack coloration thanks

let me start with what i have set up right now, my tank is an oceanic 67ish gal, 36x18x24 2 kessil a360 -8 hours total runtime at 100% intensity and color 1 hour each ramp time and ramp down 1 hydra 26 hd = 8 total hours runtime at 80 max white and blue, with 1 hour ramp time and ramp down skimmer rated for 120 gl running reactor with pura phos lock dosing 20 ml of red sea nopox cal = 425 alk = 10 mag 1450 5 just added 3 macro algae, ( all 3 are getting good grow rate ) i have issue with phosphate and im still battling with it, hence the pura phos lock, nopox and jsut added the macro algae last week, what i dont understand is that i have some growth on some of my sps, and coloration on others but not all seems to be reacting the same way, is this normal? im not really complaining with whats going on with my lil ocean right now, i just to ask what do i need to make growth and color be a lil better thanks phos - .21 nit - 1salinity = 1.02

wow!!!

thanks, for all the help, i guess we will find out once the replacement kit arrive, i hope it will thank you again

its this one, its a marine depot brand, Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

are all RODI unit the same as to where the waste water and product water comes out? please correct me if i am wrong and point me in the right direction, from what i read for this particular RODI the waste water comes out of the membrane chamber and the product water comes out on the side next to one of the DI chamber, this one is the marine depot klean water model if that will be of any help thanks

thats what i did, pull out the membrane it is seated properly buthe 2nd seal, closer to the cap, has already deteriorated thats prolly why its like the membrane is not there anymore even if its still, anyway, this one doesnt have all the bells and whistles, its just the membrane casing and media casing no tds meter, pressure gauge nor flush valve. i have ordered a full replacement kit as the previous owner mentioned it has been sitting for a while, hopefully it will fix the issue,

thanks Jon, restrictor is about 6 inches long, i just spoke with marine depot rep and it seems like the membrane seal has been compromised, just ordered a whole replacement kit and hopefully that will fix the issue thanks again wamas

i just pick up a marine depot 100 gpd rodi and when i tried using the line the makes the product water is squirting water like there is no tomorrow, i check both lines and the waste water line has a flow restrictor inside and the product water has none, prolly why product water is pushing that much water and almost none on the waste water my question is that does the waste water and product water tubing need to have flow restrictors? thanks

so i got home today and check my ATO and its working again, after i raise the float sensor a lil bit higher the sensor and lit up and the pumps kick in i hope it stay that way, thanks for all the input in and when it happen again i will have ideas on what to do thank you all again

thanks all for all the inputs i will surely try them later, just a few pumps does pump water, i notice sensor light comes on on the unit but not the pump light, yes it does hqve to float switches 1 can be use as a fail safe so the pump wont run when there is no more or water os below minimum in the reservoir, thank you Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk