WishNewFish
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Posts posted by WishNewFish
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1. Spectrapure 90gpd maxcap af, all filters and RO membranes replaced and used for about a month. Have additional DI resin bags as well from BRS. (Price $50 obo)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BmbrWMCN0nbZH0ThNO0S9bteCc0v1dwu/view?usp=sharing
2. Hospital tank (5 gallon or 10 gallon dont remember - free)
3. Stand which can hold 15 gallons tank. (https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/aqueon-cherry-bow-front-aquarium-stand) free (See pics link)
4. Tunze Care Magnet Scraper - Strong+ Plus (Price $15 obo)
5. Flipper nano scraper - (price $10 obo)
6. heater 1 - 50watts ($5 obo)
7. heater 2 - 200 watts ($10 obo)
8. maxijet pumps/powerheads (x2) price ($5 each obo)
9. Heavy duty pump for water changes (free)
10. Flexible return piping (Free)
11. RODI tubing (Free)
12. Marine cement (10lb i guess, free)
13. silent air stone with batteries (free)
14. frozen food (3 packs of different stuff) free
15. saltwater api test kit (new) -free
16. calcium supplement - free
17. Large grabbing arm to remove corals or rocks - free
18. refractometer - free
I can donate them for a school or a good cause as well. Prefer someone who can take it all.
links to some of the pictures: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1XhWEK4XP_Ne9Jfp0FKvc8E8SC8Xt48Hq
Location: fairfax, va near monument dr. PM for pickup, sooner you pickup the better.
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on a related note, I am dealing with some fish disease which doesn't fit the pattern.
I had all healthy QT'ed fish in my tank (5), and I introducted a tang which has been tank transferred for 12 days.
After introducing the tang, it didn't eat at all ,hiding and few days later saw its mouth stuck open. It perished few days later and then one by one, each of my health fish started breathing heavily and laying of floor and die eventually (3-4days). The symptoms show up on one fish at a time and while rest appear to be healthy and eating. The sick fish dont eat at all and heavy breathing.
No flashing at all on any fish.
Each fish either show boated stomach with stringy poo line or fin torn up a bit. No aggression noticed in the tank at all. there is no aggressive fish in my tank either.
I treated my display with antiobiotic dose azythrmycin for 7 days with as per dosage instructions.
Still had issue, treated with prazipro and still having issues.
Not sure if its fluke or ich but I dont see any fish flashing or having white spots or dont see any thing drop off them when i do a fresh water dip or when i check the dead fish closely.
I have two fish remaining with one close to dying.
all parameters such as ammonia, nitrate, nitrite are undetectable. Ph 8.0-8.2, temp 77-78. salinity 1.024
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Hi, I am looking for any general feedback and experience other members may have on using icecap skimmers?
I am looking at them for my redsea 170.
Any other suggestions? I saw bubble magus 5 but it may be overkill for the tank.
I saw icecap K1 50 and icecap k1 100 which may be near my tank capacity (40 gallons).
If you have any other better skimmers you had experience with in this capacity range or with goes well with redsea 170, let me know.
Cheers and happy holidays.
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I did some research on these stands. Not all stands are equal unless they are specifically made for your tank.
Some stands expect that majority weight is transferred on the stand where the table top meet the base joints.
So if you have a NUVO tank or any tank which doesn't rest over the points where the tabletop meets its base. The tabletop will cave in slowly.
I am currently using this bow front stand from Petco: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/aqueon-cherry-bow-front-aquarium-stand
My nano is 13.5 gallon and it was able to hold 16 gallons max.
Do some research on how the table's support is constructed and also read on multiple sites for user reviews of same model what issues they have encountered with different brand tanks. Based on the price point - the tabletop should be made sturdy enough to hold your 22 gallon but just make sure.
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for those of you who are not gratified enough of your horror appetite:
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I didn't have such experience with LA so far, but in generally I realized especially with Fish, Cheap means High RISK.
Unless we have our own QT which offsets this Cheap prices, we are playing the game.
Marco's QT and reefescape QT are the only sources I trust and put the fish directly into my DT.
The risk is highly multiplied when we are adding one fish bought from these cheaper sources to existing healthy fish in our system.
I have personally experienced for myself that the cheaper prices and the cost of QT, fish die in QT and cost/time of existing fish killed is NOT AT ALL WORTHY!
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Realized that Valentini puffer is omnivore per liveaquaria.
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Another interesting observation I made:
My valentini puffer (carnivore) is munching on the lettuce I feed my tangs. Its been doing it since two days.
Very interesting behavior swapping in my tank. My tangs harass corals and my puffer eat tang food
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It could be a curious ripping or aggression or something.
Its definitely not because of food landing on corals.
I see my corals still surviving and opening up, so it may not be as damaging as killing the colony.
Read online that Hippo tangs have been observed to do this.
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Has anyone had experience with tangs and fox face harassing and trying to eat corals?
I feed my fish heavy with NLS pellets and mysis shrimp every day. Make sure each of my 13 fish eat. (Except mandarin)
First I feed pellets till they stop feeding on pellets and let one or two pellets drop floor., Then I feed a cube of mysis to make sure all fish ate latest a two bites of mysis.
I feed nori or lettuce/spinach twice a week as well for tang/foxface/angelfish.
Recently I observed my rowdy yellow tang and fox face eat the polyps of pulsing sinularia and clove polyp. Literally mowing down the polyps with their mouth colored with polyps.
Never heard or read anything of this sort before.
My flame angel, valentini puffer and midas don't bother any corals or other fish.
Another thing I observed when I feed nori is that pretty much all fish except valentini puffer and mandarin eats nori.
Tang, fox face, flame, royal gramma, chromis, midas and filefish, clowns.
Has anyone see this behavior?
All my fish are fat as super pigs! literally! they are so belly full they swim funny.
But still act like they are starving if I don't feed them nori everyday. Could this be due to recent increase in water temperature to 77F?
Im trying to be feed them a tad less so they don't act like spoiled rascals! and keep my water clean. (Thanks to cheatos and strong refugium lights, my nitrates are consistently around 2 ppm and phosphates are undetectable using multiple test kits)
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I increased my temp from 74-75 to 77-78 and I see my corals extend polyps like fully!!
Down side is my fish are heavily stocked, eats like pigs, active and chasing each other.
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On a completely different note,
Blue light is disruptive to human circadian rhythm.
Looking at deep blue light at night can cause insomnia.
https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/blue-light-has-a-dark-side
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My responses:
I see my tank temperature between (74-76F) most of the time. there are times when is went low as 72 and high as 80.
Although I have heater, I disconnected it and my tank is in sync with my home temperature.
In summers my home is between (72-76)
I might need to plugin in my heater in winter as temperatures begin to drop, but my home temperature never goes below 70 in winter.
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I want to see what temperature other members are running their reef tank at:
1. what is the temperature you run your tank at?
2. Does any of you skip the heater all together?
(There are always exceptions like large tanks needing chillers due to equipment/light transferring heat,
and homes or surroundings of the tank may not support favorable temperatures.
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Paul b! I wish I saw your feeder before. I lost my 2 purple queen anthias just because they don't want to eat anything except live food.
Moreover they are not that good of a pod hunters either. Only live brine shrimp is what I saw them actively hunting at in my tank.
I had my tank/refugium full of cope/amphipods but they could get enough.
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Wow! First time I'm hearing about mandarin getting ich.
I tried my wits out trying to see if my mandarin would eat anything except pods. Tried live bloodworms, sushi roe, had bristleworms in my tank it never touched.
Except pods, live brine shrimp it didn't care about anything else.
How big was your mandarin which ate bristleworms and bloodworms?
Mine was about inch long female.
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puffer fish can help reduce their population.
Some had anecdotal success using bumblebee snails.
Someone cited chemical treatment: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/here-it-is-fenbendazole-use-against-hydroids.214950/
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wow, it still took 12 weeks even after you used Dr. Tims?
Glad I took live rock from Tom "kyle&amy" - I didn't see any ammonia or nitrite reading after 3 days.
Added food for couple of more days and started adding fish a week later.
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Since you raised the point of anerobic bacteria converting Nitrate to Nitrogen gas.
Is this nitrogen generating anerobic bacteria present in all fully cycled tanks or only in tanks with deep sand bend/large rock work tanks?
That's a fairly common way of cycling, actually. In this example, though, you're using branded products. There's nothing really new about using ammonia in the form of ammonium chloride (or ammonium hydroxide) to feed and encourage bacteria growth as part of cycling a tank. Other ways that don't rely on chemicals include ghost feeding, putting a raw shrimp or some other source of organics into a tank, peeing in the tank, etc. The other part of this equation is the introduction of bacteria. In this example, it's using Dr. Tim's bacteria starter, but other sources include products from other manufacturers, bacteria that arrive from the air, from your hands and other surfaces (including stuff living on live rock and sand), etc.
One thing to note, though. These products, to the best of my knowledge, jumpstart the nitrogen cycling process by encouraging the growth of aerobic bacteria which are responsible for decaying organic material into ammonia and for converting ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate. They do little to jumpstart the anaerobic process of bacteria converting nitrate to nitrogen gas. (I note with a smile that Dr. Tim's process shown above says nothing at all about the aquarist measuring nitrate. He just focuses on ammonia and nitrite. There's a reason for this.)
So, will it work? Yes. Is there anything really special about it? I don't think so. Can I do the same in other ways? Yes. Aquarists have been cycling tanks for decades in other, sometimes quite interesting and, seemingly, odd ways.
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are you dosing anything into the tank?
If you do such dosing, it could affect the cheato.
I am dosing talk currently and using middle chamber for cheato and don't have any issues with it.
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You didn't tell how much liverock and bio filtration you have and if your rockwork includes lots of hiding place for fish.
Like someone already suggested - everyone has their opinion and it's very subjective.
You already have two BTAs, and 5 chromis.
Any new fish you add shouldn't be requiring live food like pods (mandarin) because chromis already hunt out pods and if you add mandarin it will surely starve. Unless mandarin is trained to eat frozen mysis or pellets, even if it does eat, it's difficult for it to get to food with all the active feeders like chromis/clownfish.
I don't know much about Wrasse except that most of them will bully any fish in the tank if it's already well stocked.
Flame angelfish could be a good candidate, royalgramma or aquaculture orchid (fridmani) dottyback could be a good candidate.
Chromis do add bioload to the tank since they are active feeders and make sure you feed multiple times a day so everyone gets food.
How long have you had 5 chromis for? As you add any other fish I mentioned, there is a good chance the chromis will start die.
Not necessarily due to new tank syndrome but chromis keep fighting among themselves and as you add another semi aggressive fish like flame angel/gramma/orchid - this takes toll on the weakest chromis.
Getting out of hobby sale
in General Discussion
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