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Curtis Scott

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Posts posted by Curtis Scott

    CS1 Pump is not working

    in Avast Marine Works

    · Edited by Curtis Scott

    I just noticed this morning the main pump on my CS1 is not working. I have it soaking in a bucket with warm tap water and vinegar for now in hopes of cleaning it up and getting it working again.

     

    My concern is it won't even turn on and I've never cleaned in the past 1+ year. (I know big mistake)

     

    This is the CS1 with recirculating pump, is it safe to take apart? Are there any resources you can point me to? 

    Plumbing / Pumps

    in General Discussion

    It's not an obvious choice- 2xM5 would give you some fault tolerence but also increased heat, complexity and probably power consumption.  An alternative would be to stick with one M7 and just buy a 2nd to sit on the shelf on cold standby.  You lose the instant backup capability but also eliminate the other 3 drawbacks.  In addition, you'll be operating at full flow for however long it takes you to repair the failed pump (could be days). 

     

    Question- how long would/could it be before you notice a failure of the M7?  Could your tank last that long with the internal flow?  Keep in mind you'll lose skimmer, heat and anything other functions provided by your skimmer.

     

    One other point- if you ever end up T'ing off the return to feed reactors, biopellets, frag tank, or other stuff, with the 2xM5 configuration, one of your pumps becomes more critical than the other.  At that point I think the single M7 with another on standby wins.

     

    Great points! I like your idea of staying with a single MagDrive 7. I think I'll be going with this route.

     

     

    I'm confused as to why you say you want to "plumb it properly." Plenty of people prefer flexible tubing. I agree on the mag7. Get a second backup. Are you having problems or do you just have the urge to tinker?

     

    I know flexible can be done right and work great. Mine was not however. It was done fast and corners were cut, but it worked so I've left it like this for about 4 years+.

     

    Recently I've been having issues with my pump not cutting back on after being off (feeding). The pump probably just needs to be cleaned, so I pulled it and placed a cleaned used one on. While inspecting it, I noticed the tubing has cyano and other stuff growing in it so I figured I'd take another look at how it's set up and just take the time to do it right. 

    Plumbing / Pumps

    in General Discussion

    I currently have a 75g set up with a 30g sump with 2 x MP40s running on it.

     

    It has plenty of flow inside the tank and currently enough from the sump just using a single MagDrive 7 pump. However the plumbing was done using flexible tubing and not hard plumbed. 

     

    With help from my brother, I plan to re-plumb it properly.  He suggest I use 2 x MagDrive 5 pumps instead of a single one MagDrive 7. Mainly for backup purposes. I'm trying to make a decision ASAP. What do you guys think would be best?

    Thawed and re-frozen food

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by Curtis Scott

    I have not had any problems with this. I have a shot glass full of rinsed and diced reef food (jans) and sometimes I forget to place right back in the freezer. However if it has been over a few hours I'd give it the smell test just to be sure. If it smells rancid, I'd toss it. 

    Who checks their tanks for potassium levels?

    in General Discussion

    I test with a Salifert test kit and dose potassium weekly. About 6 months ago I noticed the color of my corals looked faded and someone suggested I test my potassium.  

     

    For some reason my tank uses a lot of it. My first test showed 200ppm. From what I've read macro algae can use it as well as corals.

     

    When I first started dosing I noticed it really helped bring the colors out on my SPS. When it's in the 400ppm-450ppm range the colors really pop.

     

    I started with using brightwell, then tried K balance zeovit, unfortunately it barely maintained the level of potassium. Now I stick with brightwell.

    Best Source for Copepods

    in General Discussion

    Reefs2go's offer seems decent, free shipping and $9.95 per 500. I want to get a bunch to heavily seed my reef. I have one very happy mandarin in there now so I figure he's getting something, but I've never  actually seeded the tank. Normally I'd say that means I have no copepods, however, when I did my last tank I already had the massive 3xVolume rated skimmer running when I took delivery of my live rock and laid it all out flat on the bottom and left it alone for months, kept a lot of stuff on the rock alive. I really have no idea if that'll keep copepods alive, but my one mandarin is really, really happy in there. However, I have two more on the way. Time to make sure I have a good food supply. Anybody have any feedback on reefs2go? Seen some feedback that isn't so positive. Any other good sources?

     

    Sad to see they aren't still running this deal, I'd give them a shot. 

     

    Anyone know where to purchase pods (preferably algagen tisbe pods) locally?

    Removing CO2... what are the best options?

    in General Discussion

     

    Curtis,
     
    My primary means of keeping Alk and Calc at the proper levels is by using Kalkwasser.  My Calc reactor supplements what I can not achieve with my Kalk stirrer.  I am not fond of dosing Kalk in large amounts (as might occur with some ATO systems) and so it should be dripped in slowly over the course of the day.  In order to do this I turned off my ATO for a day and measured how much my tank evaporates.  I added 2 fans over the display and 1 over the sump to maximize evaporation and the amount of Kalk I can pump back in.  With all 3 fans running, I evap 3 gallons a day.  I bought a dosing pump and use it to pump 2.9 gallons a day of Kalk into the tank.  My ATO then makes up the difference.  I would highly recommend that you use an overflow style Kalk setup so that you are only running straight water through the dosing pump and not Kalk solution. Then after a few days, I measure my Alk and Calc in the tank and adjust my calcium reactor to bring the levels where I want them.  If you want to stop over and check out my Kalk and air pump setup, you are welcome to.  I have been running this setup for over 3 years and it keeps my parameters very stable.
     
    Bruce

     

    I'll have to take you up on stopping by and checking out your setup sometime. You mentioned the fans help maximize evaporation, are these necessary to help evaporate the CO2 out of the tank if dosing kalk?

    Removing CO2... what are the best options?

    in General Discussion

    Can't your regenerate the media for the co2 scrubber?

    I didn't even think about this. I was able to find this online which leads me to believe it's not possible. http://www.pharmaceutical-int.com/article/medical-grade-soda-lime.html  If you or anyone else has a resource that explains the process, I'd love to read up on it.

     

    Curtis,

     

    I run a calcium reactor and so am constantly adding CO2 to the tank.  My ph used to run around 7.8.  I have found the solution for my tank.

     

    I have multiple air pumps I purchased from Walmart for like $8 each outside. in a covered situation so they do not get rained on.  I bought a ton of the clear tubing and ran one line to my skimmer intake.  I did not make it a tight fit in case the skimmer draws more air than the pump provides.  The other pumps are all plumbed to air stones that I have placed in my sump.  I run these air pumps 24/7.  My ph is at 8.1 in the morning and 8.3 at night.  I run my fuge lights about 22 hours and turn them off for like 2 hours from noon to 2 o'clock.

     

    Could you some how place some air pumps out back of the house and run 3 or 4 air lines over to the tank?

     

    It sounds like with the fire place being in the basement and not mush air flow, you have got to figure out a way to get fresh air to the tank.

     

    Bruce

     

    Thanks Bruce. I am trying coming up with a plan based off what you mentioned and will run it by my wife for approval. I think fresh air in combination with adding kalk to my top off might be my solution.  

     

    Stop exhaling. Get others around you to do the same.

     

    Seriously, fresh air is probably the cheapest alternative. These days, our energy efficient homes are so tightly sealed that it leads to a high level of CO2 inside the house. This results in a higher level of CO2 in our aquarium and thus a lower pH. To test if this is the problem in your tank, take a cup of tank water out and measure the pH. Take it outside in the open air and aerate it with an air stone and air pump for at least 10 minutes (I like 30 minutes personally) and then measure the pH again. If your pH rises substantially, then it's high ambient CO2 in your home that's the problem and a fresh air intake for your skimmer is part of a possible solution.

     

    There are other methods, too, of chemically capturing CO2, such as using an alkalinity additive like kalk or, for two part, baked baking soda (sodium carbonate). These obviously add to your tank while binding CO2.

     

    You've already heard about CO2 absorbents so I won't go there. They can get expensive to use over the long run, though. Especially if the CO2 level of your ambient air is especially high.

     

    Kalk was something I haven't done much research on. After talking to a couple people and doing some research last night, I really think this is the missing key here. Thanks Tom. 

     

    Is there a sliding glass door near the tank...and do you own any dogs?

    So, I know opening a window year round is not going to happen when you have to heat the house...but oddly enough, my dogs doggy door lets in just enough fresh air as they go in and out to keep my ph good.... Kinda like a window but much less air escaping and heat loss...

    Just a walkout basement, standard door. 

     

    Not if your running MH.  But I think Curtis is LED.

     

    Bruce

    Yes, I'm running LEDs.

     

    Easy.

    Pump water up and over a bio-ball tower and let it trickle back down into the sump. The bigger the better.

    Interesting idea. Wish I had room in my sump to do it though. 

     

    My tank backs my garage. I just poked a hole I'm the wall 3 days ago and ran the skimmer tube to the garage. I was staying around 7.9 at best and 7.7 at night. I'm now at 8.2 to 8.3 day and 7.9 to 8.0 at night. Definitely a big difference for me. The garage obviously not near as sealed as the house.

    That's a great setup.

     

    Kalk throughout the day is better than 2 part to purge CO2 and raise PH. Agree that a fresh air tube for the skimmer is the cheapest way, but not always convenient or logical. Barring those options, you can get much cheaper absorbent in bulk or even in modest amounts from someplace like Med Vet.

     

    Aside from that. I wouldn't worry too much about it dropping to 7.8. Below that you may have issues. Lots of photosynthesis helps too. Buy more coral, grow more algae, or other indoor plants :)

     

     

    --

    Warren

    Thanks Warren. Thanks for mentioning Med Vet, they do carry it cheaper there - http://www.shopmedvet.com/product/soda-lime-5-gallon-JOR553B

    Removing CO2... what are the best options?

    in General Discussion

    Run fuge lights opposite cycle?

    Run them for 24hrs

     

    Dosing alk at strategic times will help avoid ph swings, but not help as much with co2.

     

    Plenty of people here have their skimmer air intake plumbed with tubing to the outdoors. That seems to work well.

     

    Not sure how else to scrub it from the tank if its in your room aside from using outside air or the scrubber you have.

     

    edit: Photosynthesis works too, as gmerek2 says, my pH goes up by 0.15 if I run the fuge light and add to my forest of fuge hair algae.

    Good points I have read up on the tubing to outside, but unfortunately this isn't an option... unless I can convince my wife ;)  Maybe testing a reverse light cycle on the refugium is in order.

     

    This would HURT your problem.  Calc reactors lower ph.

    Ah, that's not good to hear. Wondering if there are any other options beside running the CO2 scrubber media or placing the air line outside.

    Removing CO2... what are the best options?

    in General Discussion

    · Edited by Curtis Scott

    I have been using http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-color-changing-medical-grade-co2-absorbent.html since early september and have only one more refill from the container I purchased. This is being used in the air filter I purchased from them as well that connects to my Avast CS1.

     

    Pros:

    It works. My ph from ~ 7.8 to ~ 8.2 and now only swings ~ .2 during the night.

    Easy to use.

     

    Cons:

    I've realized this could start to get expensive.

    Need a better way to monitor the CO2 levels and not have to wait until the ph is getting low to adjust it. (I guess I could set up an alert in my Apex)

    Need to stabalize the ph so every 3 weeks it's not dropping so low. 

    Can't use my fireplace in the tank room because it uses up all the filter media way to fast. (found this out over Thanksgiving)

     

     

    Are there better alternatives to removing CO2?

     

    Would going from dosing (B-Ionic 2 part) to a calcium reactor help solve this problem? 

    How many of you DON'T use GFO?

    in General Discussion

    I have always ran Rowaphos and have even been running ChemiPure Elite ever since my Cyano outbreak at the beginning of the year.

     

    I'm thinking of pulling them out of the system this weekend, especially after reading these post.  I'll be keeping an eye on my phosphates and nitrates after I do, just encase.

     

    Question for those not running it... Are you guys running carbon?

    Accurately testing for Iron and dosing as required

    in General Discussion

    I forgot to mention... I grow plenty of Cheato too.

     

    After speaking with Matt at Marine Scene about my SPS color being dull, he recommended Potassium to me to improve my coral colors. Not wanting to dose something before confirming it was depleted, I purchased the Potassium test kit from Salifert and confirmed my Potassium was at 200ppm and no where near the recommended 400ppm level. I started dosing Potassium to keep levels around 400ppm and my colors have really improved. Now I'm looking to make sure my iron is in check.

    This is just sad and scary...

    in General Discussion

    A Florida man died after contracting a flesh-eating bacterial infection while wading in a river on Saturday.

    ...

    Konietzky's death is the latest in a string of cases in Florida involving Vibrio vulnificus. The salt water bacteria, which are related to those that cause cholera, have already afflicted 26 people in Florida this year, causing nine deaths, according to Florida Department of Health data.

     

     

    http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/09/30/henry-konietzky-dies-flesh-eating-bacteria-vibrio-vulnificus_n_4018360.html?ncid=edlinkusaolp00000009

     

     

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