jaddc
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Posts posted by jaddc
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Yup. I recommend injecting the peroxide directly into the cyano with a syringe or baster, as opposed to a broadcast dose. You'll see the results immediately.
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Nice video and tank!
Thanks for sharing.
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I had a pair of tomato clowns that were 17 years old when I gave them to another club member. I think he still has the female which is now over 20 years old.
Some articles on life spans of different fish.
The oldest captive fish in the world, "granddad".
http://www.sheddaqua...g/granddad.html
http://www.seacave.c...oi/seascope.php
http://www.reefsmaga...-longevity.html
http://reefbuilders....ngelfish-nancy/
Cool reads -- thanks for sharing.
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I posted it because if your freshly cut zoas are battling some bacteria or fungus then peroxide may be an easy thing to try.
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This is different.
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So when you make fresh salt water, what is your concentration? And what is the measured Ca, Mg and KH values? After you spike in Mg and Ca what are the new values?
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In a larger sense -- The values of Mg, Ca and KH don't matter too much (within reason). What matters is that the balance of those levels relative to each other do not change rapidly. So adding baking soda but not calcium chloride will not make your corals happy.
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I always do 50% water changes and spike the change-out water with cal and mag. After the change my cal is over 450 and the alk is normal. It only takes a couple weeks for the alk to drop close to 5 dkh but then it seems to stay there forever. I can dose with baking soda but raising alk to to 7 makes my softies cringe, especially mushrooms. Can my SPS live with this low alk? If not why is dosing to get higher alk making my softies cringe? Is my water change method related? I've heard dosing to raise alk can make cal drop, true?
Why do you add calcium and magnesium to your fresh saltwater?
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Dang -- sorry to hear about this.
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Honestly if it costs any kind of real money, I'm not that worried about it. I would like to move it, it would certainly be easier to do some things if I move it, but it's not necessary.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I moved my tank with professional help. Wasn't expensive and well worth the money. Even if you get a bunch members to help you out, it is nice to have an experienced foreman.
One of the biggest issue with tank moves is making sure you don't stir up the sand, start a detritus cloud and a deadly cycle. You taking the sand out? Either way be careful how you pump the water back in making sure you don't stir up the sand. Even taking the rock out and putting it back in can stir up the sand too much.
+1
When I moved my tank we kept the sand in place barely covered by water. Water and rock was added back carefully to minimize stirring. Didn't cause a cycle, but I did have another diatom bloom as well as some algae problems for a couple of weeks.
Stands can settle in pretty deeply into carpet, leaving deep impressions in both the carpet and in the padding. It really depends upon how much material is actually contacting the floor and the pounds per square inch on the carpet. To move it, it's probably going to be a little more than a slide - you may find it more of a "lift and slide."
+1 My 30 gallon tank won't budge and its on carpet.
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Cool tip. Thanks for sharing
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In my experience, a tank move is a tank move. Moving a tank 1.5 feet from the wall doesn't make it any easier -- the process is still the same.
There are plenty of professional tank maintenance people here who can help out. It may cost a little of money, but it will be well spent. If you want recommendations then PM me.
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I agree. I find it hard to believe that it's not a lengthy troll on the aquarium community because it's hard to believe that something can do what they allege this thing can do. Amazing if it works, but I'm not saving up for one just yet.
LOL
But true.
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Yeah I don't know why I just didn't put my user name on the ticket. Maybe I didn't think I would win.
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I just took the trip out the BRK to pick up the two chalice corals that I won in the raffle at the Winter Meeting.
Wow! I feel very lucky to win both of the chalices -- it was a VERY generous donation. I cannot wait to place them on my rock.
If you haven't been to BRK -- go. It is a great shop with great livestock and well maintained tanks. Plus -- tons of supplies so I was able to pick up everything I was looking for.
WAMAS is lucky to have John and BRK as a sponsor and the area is lucky to have BRK as a LFS.
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It was me Tom. I have the certificates and I'm going to pick them up today.
Thank you to Wamas and I will certainly thank Johnny at Brk.
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With the hobby grade devices you don't have to do much. All it takes is for the prism to shift slightly for the scale to be off.
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Great stuff. It doesn't go bad if stored properly, but it has a 2-year expiration date stamped on it because of some (now repealed) law that New Jersey passed back in the 1980's. Great trivia.
I know, right? That's what I thought. I hope this comes up in pub quiz!
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Stored in the original bottle, capped tightly, and - if possible - with the air expelled to the extent possible. I use Pinpoint solution. I'll sometimes make a refractometer from Kosher salt and RO/DI water and tweak it to match the Pinpoint. If the solution is every cloudy or has residue on the bottom, toss it. Sometimes you'll see - in the DIY standard - that you can get a growth in the bottle that probably came from some bacteria or something in the bottle at the time of mixing it up. Thus, I won't keep a DIY solution much more than a month anymore. If you do, you may want to sterilize the container, boil the water in advance of using it when you mix up your standard, or keep it in the dark. There may be other ways of keeping this risk down, too (maybe using a little bleach in the solution), but I've not tried it. Stock solution is cheap enough to just get and have on the shelf.
+1 FWIW
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You are king of interesting videos. Thanks for sharing.
:-) Have to spread the knowledge!
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Just saw an interesting video on the topic and learned something new. Passing it along:
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Agreed, that I would rather zero the device (jaddc has a good point that we zero, not calibrate refractometers) with 35ppt standard solution. However my tank, freshly mixed saltwater, and RODI water all point to my standard solution drifting over time. If the standard solution can drift 2ppt over the course of a few months, and there are no expiration dates on it, how can you trust the standard solution?
In any case I have a new bottle of standard solution, a precision scale, and a calibration weight that should be here on Wednesday. That way I can test my old standard solution, new standard solution, and Randy's DIY standard solution and find out what I can really trust. With the precision scale/calibration weight I should be able to make Randy's DIY solution in small batches with an accuracy of +/- .3ppt.
Oh, I can believe that your standard is drifting. Evaporation and precipitation would be your main culprits.
I would proceed just as you are doing.
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Don't know about the product -- though its interesting.
FWIW -- If you mix GFO:carbon in a bag at a 1:2 ratio, then the GFO won't clump up on you.
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A refractometer is linear measurement tool. An analog thermometer is also a linear measurement tool.
The liquid in a thermometer travels the same distance from 20-30 degrees as it does from 60 to 70 degrees or 100 to 110 degrees (measure it with a ruler). To calibrate a thermometer at the factory you pick two points (used to be water freezing and boiling in the old days) and then divide the distance between those points into even parts, or degrees. That scale is printed on the shaft and cannot be adjusted. And so once calibrated, the thermometer does not need to be calibrated again. If you take 10 liquid thermometers of the same make and model, you will see that the scales are slightly different on each one.
It is similar for a refractometer. At the factory, the device is calibrated and they print the scale onto the view finder. That is why analog refractometers are technically never calibrated, only zeroed, by the consumer.
If you zero out a refractometer (which you should do every time you use it because the prism can move) and then measure a standard solution, it should be dead on with no further adjustments needed.
Often it is not the case with hobby grade devices because it may not have been calibrated properly, constructed properly, handled properly, etc.
If a properly zeroed refractometer does not read a standard solution properly after the temperature has matched, then the refractometer is defective.
One option is to buy a new refractometer.
Another option is to zero the device, not at zero with RODI, but at the reading you are interested in. That is where the standard solutions come in (they are standard solutions, not calibration solutions). If you move the scale to read 35ppt when a 35ppt standard solution is in the refractometer, then you minimize the error in that local region. Obviously, this is a cheaper method than buying a good refractometer.
Here's a home recipe from Randy: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rhf/
Help - coral dying?
in General Discussion
Treat it like SPS.
Lots of light and moderate flow to keep the tissue free of debris.