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LanglandJoshua

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Posts posted by LanglandJoshua

  1. Well I was in PetSmart yesterday (yes the same one as from THIS incident)

    It is on Rt 1 in Alexandria in Potomac Yards.

     

    I noticed near the front they have a used 72 bowfront FW tank set up (with water, fish, etc) , and it is on sale. They have a big sign that says it is a clearance used item for sale for $400, but would be $3200 if purchased separately/new. Fish not included.

     

    I noticed the center brace was broken, and there was a 3/4" gap in the brace where the tank has bowed out.

     

    I also noticed the front left seam has "black goo" all over the length of it. Undoubtedly where the tank was leaking due to the center brace being broken, they put some goo on. I didn't feel comfortable just standing near the thing.

     

     

    Man, this is just not right. Let me enumerate the problems:

     

    1) This set up does not cost $3200 if purchased separately. Probably around $400. Maybe. It is just tank, gravel, maybe a crummy filter, heater.

    2) That broken center brace is a serious safety concern IMO. Not only should it not be for sale, it should not be set up in a public place.

    3) They obviously know about the broken center brace, with the black goo and all. It is wrong to not have that damage clearly marked ("DAMAGED").

     

    Looks like a law suit waiting to happen to me. Willfull endangerment of the public or some such.

     

    Lots of Petsmarts are great, the ones I have been to dont have salt water sections. But in reality its up to the manager, and sadly sometimes just how stupid they can be. I wouldnt judge one chain store for an unimaginably foolish person. People will try to sell anything to make a buck.

  2. You're right Joshua. Instead of a variable timing, I'd just set the tides at 6 hours. But there is also an argument to keeping a clockwise flow at all times to get the most water movement. This is what every aquaculture operation does and it never seems to bother the fish. So maybe tides are overrated.

     

    Changing direction on 24,000 pounds of water moving at say, an inch a second or so is alot of inertia to reverse. It will stir the tank, which may be more important than overall flow through a filter feeder. I guess it is a case of what is more important, higher flow or more turbulence, and I don't have an answer to that.

     

    That makes a lot of sense, but while were brainstorming here why not just have the current switch rotation every 6-12 hours? I have heard a lot about how the turbulence is good for SPS and corals. This way you can keep the calm rotation most of the time for the fish and yet get the turbulence and movement occasionally for healthy SPS and others.

  3. Don't take this the wrong way, but I would start with Google. There are lots of step-by-step guides to growing nannochloropsis and other phytoplanktons, as well as raising saltwater rotifers. You'll.get detailed information more quickly that way than by asking folks here.

    If you haven't done so before, I would approach this project in two phases. First, get used to growing and splitting phytoplankton cultures. It's not too hard, but you need to have a stable source of phyto for your rotifers to eat. If you start cultures of phyto and rotifers at the same time, you'll be struggling to grow enough phyto for the rots.

     

    Thanks, I had done some research and actually did come a cross the site linked above. But I know there is always something that I will miss, like I saw a hint of suggested PH and salinity for the rotifers VS the phyto. So I was trying to figure ways around it. But the rotifer supplier I would buy from sends two months worth of dead phyto to feed the rotifers with. So I in theory could start them at the same time.

  4. I have heard that it is possible to breed rotifers for feeding fish/SPS and others. I could really use some help figuring out how to do this. I had seen where i can get a rotifer starter culture for $30 and a algae starter culture for $16, but I cant find the link right now. I will post them another time. So how should I go about doing this?

     

     

  5. I recently had a leak in my 55 gallon tank and had to do a rather rushed research and setup period for my new 75 gallon tank. However I love my sump(20 gallon) and when I realized the only stand that I was able to get in time had shelving I realized I was going to make it custom.

     

    First

    My father and I worked to but out the supports it had perpendicular to the tank just enough to fit my 20 gallon sump.(you could cut more or less depending on the size of your sump)

    Second

    We braced the back of the stand where it holds most of the weight to compensate for weakening the frame with steel tubing.

    Third place it, and setup yyour tank

     

    I will add pictures when I can get them online.

  6. Brandon,

    Make sure you read about proper acclimation techniques too. Some fish can handle shorter acclimation periods while others require very long acclimation periods. You can find information on all of this stuff free by doing google searches for "how to properly acclimate marinefish", disease and parasite of marine fish", etc. check out the google images to see what pics of what you've searched for. You may also want to check out places like livaquaria, www.wetwebmedia.com and www.saltwaterfish.com. they have great information on their sites about the hobby and specific fish, inverts, etc.. Save your money for buying fish.

     

     

    I wanna just say, I love saltwaterfish.com. They have great information and background on their fish, they used to have a very good forum as well but I cant seem to get on it lately. Most of the prices are good, and their acclimation instructional video even got the messege through my thick nubie skull. Two thubs up!

  7. Hey guys, just giving an update. I got some very generous offers for help in my Inbox. I wanna say thanks to all the people who offered some tanks, even one 90 gallon full setup. But as it is now I have gotten a 75 and stand to replace my flimsy tubed steel stand(I was afraid of Reef Armagedon every time I scrubed algae). So its all doing well, I actually baught a good bit of SPS from a Miss A the day before I had this incident. Luckily it all survived, and is looking great. Also big thanks to you guys who helped me consider what to do, I was so confused but I did settle with GLASS. Its cheaper and I cant stand scratches in my tank. I would lose my mind with acrylic. So good luck to all, and if anyone out there is new and has an emergency KEEP SOME LARGE STORAGE CONTAINERS AROUND!!! You can use them as replacement tanks temporarily, I put my sand in one and my fish/seperable living organisms in another. My light went on top of the "replavement" tank and I used all my same gear to keep water flow in the container. I learned that even though a Fluval 405 can get the intake/output kinda stuck on the lip of the container its a life saver! From all the places Ive done research they all agree on keeping backup systems, just rinse out the tuperware with some fresh water first and wipe the water out before adding your stock of organisms. Best of luck, and thanks again

     

     

  8. From what I have heard Rotifers are the most nutritous of the refugium growable food sources. But it can be pretty expensive to start up. Take a look at my forum post for setting up a rotifer breding tank/bucket. If your on a budget you might not wanna get into rotifers. But if you have the space and $ it might be a good idea.

     

     

  9. Hello. Well today I need help finding some LED lights for an Aquapod 12 gallon. The aquapod has LED light built into it but I dont have the transformer needed to make it work. I have been trying to find it on the internet but every time I look its out of stock. I have been looking at the Current USA True Lumen LED Lunar Light Module 3 LED's. I would like to know if this is a good product. If you have these lights could you reply with a picture biggrin.gif.

     

    thanks

     

     

    Well I may be a bit new to this forum, but after looking at the lights they dont seem too powerful. Do you have anything else in there or are you just doing a fish tank? With no coral?

  10. Bumper. I also have both G and A tanks. I use a credit card to get the coraline off.

    Welcome to Wamas.

     

    Thanks

    You use a credit card? Doesnt that violate some term of contract. On a real note, I have a hard time getting all sides of my tank thats why I use a magfloat.

     

    Im still in between the two types

  11. Ditto. I love acrylic because it's clearer, lighter, more easily drillable, and can have seamless corners.

     

    But it's a PITA to keep clean, and the purpose of using transparent materials to build an aquarium is so you can see into it! My next tank will be glass.

     

    Glad you're able to turn this near-catastrophe into an opportunity to make your system even better.

     

    Jon

     

     

     

     

    Believe me Im trying, I think I might be more shocked than my fish. They are hiding in the rocks and wont come out! WHERE DO I HIDE? HAHA, well Im really leaning now to the glass tank because after all for a little more it will have the built in overflow and some other goodies that can only help. One thing for me is, you can call it bigger is better, or whatever I dont want to lose the 5 gallons I would if I got acrylic. It only comes in 50 gallon and 60 gallon. So I might just get glass. But Im not sure, still like the sound of acrylic. But if it gets dirty how do you clean it without damaging it? What it my magfloat grabs some sand and I dont see it? Am I gonna end up with a tank that looks like a two year old ETCHED his SCETCH into it?

  12. Welcome to WAMAS, and sorry for your terrible luck!

     

    What kind of stand did you have your tank on? How old was the tank, and who made it?

     

    I've had both glass & acrylic tanks in the past, and won't go back to acrylic for any kind of high light reef tank. It's just too hard to keep clean, since you can't use a razorblade to clean off coralline algae. If it weren't for that, then yes acrylic is the way to go. I've heard Dobie pads can remove coralline from acrylic safely, but I've never tried it and don't know how much work it is compared to a razor.

     

    BTW, acrylic tanks can fail too if built poorly or kept on a warped stand.

     

    Justin

     

     

    Haha, thanks

     

    Its on a steel stand, kinda flimsy it was $60 and looked better than a bunch of 2X4's. The tank is about 5 months old, as far as production I dont know. I do know I got it for free and had to recaulk it. So I do take responsibility for that, I did everything right to my knowledge. I pressed out the bulbles made sure I aplied the silicone evenly and thick enough to take a beating. But the preasure just seemed to be too much tonight.

     

    That I understand thats an issue for me is I know they can both fail. Also unfortunately I get insane algae. I got a new 65 gallon protien skimmer yesterday and the tank looked nice and clean today(had to scrub it every day to keep glass clear, even has green coraline algae like yours all on the sides. So all my hopes are pinned on not having too much algae anymore.

     

    Do you think I need a better stand? Could that be it?

  13. eek.gif excl.gif My 55 gallon reef tank busted a leak out the bottom right about the time I was finishing my post for the rotifers. Luckily I was able to save all my SPS and fish(anemone, shrimp and crabs included). But now they are stuck with 55 gallon equipment blowing them all around inside a 30 gallon tuperware storage tub. So I want to get them back into a healthy tank environment ASAP. So I like acrylic but have no experience with it, Ive always used glass. This is the first major failure I have had on one of my tanks, I have seen entire tanks emptied in 10 seconds... not mine, until now. But making it more confusing is that I also want a built in overflow so I can get rid of my clunky hang on overflow. But the next best price for a tank like that in acrylic is $100 over the regular 50 gallon. But the glass tank with overflow and some filter accessories is only $30 over the acrylic basic tank. Another questoin would be if I have the overflow and or false back does that count into the size, or do they enlarge the tank a few inches? So over all I would just like to hear what you guys think of acrylic and if its really worth it over glass.
  14. I am considering setting up a system to grow Rotifers for feeding my polyps, BTA, and treating my fish. I already feed them with sinking fish food pellets, but I always get that nagging feeling of did I miss one? I am also hoping(naively...) that maybe in the future my 55 long reef tank will produce frags and if Im really lucky some baby clown fish. I know that on the off chance I do get anything like that I need a ready food source so introducing rotifers should help anything that may be too small for my pellets. Here is a little diagram of how I "hope" to set this up. The diagram includes the prices of the most cost effective and reasonable places I could find online. Please if anyone has experience here I could use some advice. I would like to get this one right the first time.

    Rotifer breeding for fish diagram.doc

  15. I may be relatively new to this hoby, but even I can understand it. This is some of the most important and objective information I think any aquarist should know. I had a good laugh at some of the things that I found I already know, and others I dont look forward to learning. Best of luck on your endeavors Eric. Your one of the best, and Ive read over MANY sites and thousands of people claiming to be God of Marine aquariums. Keep it up! TEACH US MORE!

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