hypertech
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Posts posted by hypertech
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You are spreading bad information about emergency drains again. People are going to read this and think you are referring to siphon type systems like a herbie, which is the context in which an emergency drain is most often referred to.
Simply put, if you run a full siphon drain like a herbie, which is practically guaranteed to be silent, you MUST have an emergency drain. If anything gets into the full siphon drain, it WILL start to back up and it WILL overflow without the emergency drain.
If you run a properly sized durso or something like that, an emergency drain might be overkill. Those types of drains can be pretty quiet, but the success rate at achieving low noise is much lower than with the siphon style drain.
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All you need for a herbie is the full siphon and the emergency of the bean. Just drop the whole drain with the sanitary tee.
The difference is that you tune a herbie to balance so that the flow matches. This works surprisingly well with a good gate valve and only needs a little tweak now and then. With the bean you close it a little more so you get a trickle down an extra pipe.
One thing I don't like about the bean is that it hides small issues from you. For example, if my herbie starts to suck a little air, I know the return pump is dirty and needs cleaning because it isn't flowing as well. IF the emergency drain starts to trickle (since it is cut high so its noisy), I know I have something to clean like algae in the overflow or something got in the valve. On the bean, you would just get a little more or less water down that trickle pipe and you'd never know the difference till the problem got bigger.
If I were you, I'd drill two holes and setup 2/3 of your bean as a herbie and try it out. If it doesn't work, drain it and drill the third hole and switch it to a bean.
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A herbie seems to fit your objectives better. I've looked at the bean animal a couple times and have yet to see a real benefit over the herbie. The herbie is silent, it is redundant, and it is not as complicated.
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Sched 80 bulkheads are a different size than sched 40. So, if your tank is already drilled, make sure you know what fits in the holes you have.
I'm not sure I understand why you need to go from a 1" drain to a 1.5" valve. You could do a herbie with 2 drains (a main and an emergency) and not have to incrase the size. This will be more compact and less expensive.
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You will want to get the gate valve and bulk heads from an LFS or BRS. Everything else can be found at HD or Lowes.
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I would research a herbie drain and run all the drain water into the skimmer section.
The T off the return pump to supply the fuge.
I would also use gate valves instead of ball valves becasue htye are much easier to control. You need to get the all plastic ones from a LFS or mail order though. Gate valves at teh home improvement stores usually have brass parts inside and are not for use in a reef tank.
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That much flow is ok but not really required. Any 500-700 gph return pump will work for you.
My sump for my 75 is a 20L with one baffle. For a 12" wide tank, I find a quarter inch acrylic panel to work well. Wider and you will need thicker or glass.
If you do a filter sock make sure you mount it so the top is below the top of the tank. It will clog and you want the overflow to spill into the tank.
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That guy would have a fit with my setup. I start with good intentions of keeping things neat, but overtime as I need to remove things for mainenance, etc it turns into a mess.
I just put a piece of industrial velcro on the back of the display and stick it to the inside of the door.
My stand is made of 2x4 supports, so I just screw the electronics into the legs.
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Just use tubing and you'll get a lot more out without stirring it up as much.
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Thanks for the advise. I like the pipe idea - that would make mounting easier. I'll also be sure to write the program so it has to be asserted for a while before tripping. Hopefully it being in fresh water instead of salt will help it last a little longer.
Its too bad the pressure switch avast sells does not have an adjustable treshold. That would be the easy solution.
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I have an extra Madison M8000 float switch and I'm thinking about putting it about 3/4 the way down in my top off container to trigger an email alarm when the reservoir is low so I know to go refill it.
It looks to be filled with epoxy or something - anyone run one of these or another switch fully submersed?
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While I suppose it is not impossible it seems highly unlikely to me.
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Sounds like a complicated to solution to not a big problem. A mechanical float and ASOV will let it run adn shut it off when its full. Then turn it off at your leisure until you are ready to fill it again.
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If I was looking to do this, I'd try to setup an auger and put cubes of frozen food between the blades. Run the motor on a timer long enough to push one cube out of the freezer and into the tank.
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I'll do the zip tie till I can get over to West for a good hose clamp.
The strange thing is that I did find water all over the place, but I didn't feel any on the base unit. I probably should open it up and clean it though.
I've got a waterbug sitting here in a box too - probably time to get that hooked up too.
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I think you were right. About mid day I got a temp back.
The return line came off because I took the hose clamp off months ago. I had a "stainless" hose clamp on it but it rusted so I ordered plastic ones and took it off. The plastic ones came but none fit and I never got to ordering a new one. I guess it's time to get that ordered.
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I woke up to find water on the floor this morning. Turns out the return line came off, the pump sprayed water all over and the GFI tripped.
I got everything cleaned up but now my Apex is telling me its 121 degrees. I tried putting it in a glass of ice water and calibrating, but it would only cycle in the range of 100-130 (reading did not change).
It would be a strange coincidence that the temp probe fails at the same time this happened. The Apex is mounted close to the return pump about two feet above it. I'm wondering if the pump might have sprayed water high enough to get the Apex wet and fry something in it. Everything seems to be working except for the temp probe (though I did forget to look at my pH readings this AM), which would seem to be a little odd if it was a problem with the Apex and not the probe.
Anyone have thoughts? I need to order replacement parts today since no temp control is, well, a bad thing, and I'm wondering if I need to order a new temp probe, an expansion module that has a temp circuit or both.
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I think so. There are presets for most things or you can write scrips. Search for the unofficial apex guide. It's not by Neptune but very well written. The step most often causing people trouble is the network setup but its their router and ISP not the apex that's the trouble. Lots of people here with them too so easy to find help.
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The lite does not have the variable outputs either. Other than that they are the same.
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It's probably too low a current draw for the triac outlets. Use outlet 4 or 8 for it. They have relays and should switch off.
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The chamber doesn't fill or there is no water flow on the output? It's normal for the chamber to fill or fill only partially.
Do you have a pressure gauge after the filters and before the membrane?
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Can you please provide platform (Andriod, iOS, etc.), version (5.1, 6.0, Jelly Bean, etc.), Browser (Safari, Chrome, Firefox), and is it consistent and repeatable? (I'm not seeing it on iOS 6.0.1 with Safari)
iOS latest version. Safari. Consistent every time.
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I'm on the mobile version. When I click back to leave a thread, the loading box appears and stays.
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Not hard. If its a seperator and not a water tight baffle, just wedge it in there. If it needs to hold water, you'll have to dry out at least that section for long enough to cure.
Help Planning Tank Position in an Apartment
in General Discussion
Are you on a ground floor? I don't see stairs and there is an optional garage. If so, you are probably on a slab and it doesn't matter.
Regardless, I would put a tank in either of those places. A 100g isn't really all that heavy and unless the place is real old I wouldn't think it would have a problem.