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sailfintang
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Tom if you did not get my email the 10$ attendance will apply to all WAMAS members. So that 5 more to spend on coral or raffles.
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Not sure of the topic but there will be a coral workshop.
Less than a week away hoping to see some of you there. Dr Mac is suppose to bring some nice stuff.
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Our Annual Spring Seminar Is Approaching Very Quickly!
Saturday April 16, 2011
Please join us for this one of a kind event featuring a prominate speaker & workshop event!! CMAS is pleased to welcome Mr. Anthony Calfo
CMAS Presents Mr. Anthony Calfo of Reading Trees Publications
Anthony Calfo was born in Hawaii and lives in Pennsylvania. He is a lifelong aquarist and an aquarium industry professional that has worked the better part of the last decade as a commercial coral farmer and wholesaler, producing cultured reef invertebrates in a greenhouse environment for the ornamental and zoological trade. Anthony has authored the reef aquarium books, "Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1" (ReadingTrees.com) & "Reef Invertebrates", and numerous articles for print and electronic journals at large. He travels frequently to visit organizations and clubs to present information on the aquatic sciences. Anthony co-founded the Pittsburgh Marine Aquarist Society with the inimitable Bob Dolan. Schooled at Carnegie-Mellon University and the University of Pittsburgh, he has degree in English Literature.
Included with your admission, CMAS will also supply a light breakfast, coffee, water, soft drinks, and a fabulous Lunch buffet to all attendees!!
CMAS Paid Members:
At Door Registration - $10
(Show your WAMAS card and you'll get the CMAS rate!)
Non CMAS Members:
At Door Registration - $15
Vendors:
Pre-Registration Required - $25
We ask that everyone pre-register because we need an accurate head count
for the food quantities, but understand that schedules change. Thanks.
9:00-9:30 Registration/Sign In
9:30-9:45 Welcome/Opening Comments
10:00-11:30 Workshop*
11:30-12:30 Break for Lunch
1:00-2:30 Mr. Anthony Calfo*
3:00-3:30 CMAS Coral Growout Contest
3:30-4:45 Socializing/Vendor Sales/RAFFLE!
4:45-5:00 Cleanup! Everybody OUT!
Items marked with a "*" are subject to a possible schedule change
Old Mill School
610 Patriot Lane
Millersville, MD 21108
Directions can be found Here.
Pacific East Aquaculture: Offering a variety of corals and other livestock
If you're interested in becoming a vendor please contact William Koester
by email wkoester@cmas-md.org or phone 410.446.8181
(1) $100 Gift Certificate donated by Doni's Reef
(2) $50 Gift Certificates donated by Air Water and Ice
(1) $40 Gift Certificate donated by Atlantis Aquarium
Mighty Mite RO/DI Unit donated by Air Water and Ice
BRS Deluxe GFO or Carbon Reactor donated by Bulk Reef Supply
75 Gallon RO/DI donated by Bulk Reef Supply
(4) $25 Gift Certificates donated by Reef Cleaners
6045 Nanostream Pump donated by Tunze
Fluval 305 donated by Hagen
Aquaclear 50 hang on filter donated by Hagen
A variety of Loc Line adapters and fittings donated by Modular Hose
Advantage Series 8 watt UV Sterilizer donated by Aqua Ultra Violet
A Premium Line of Aquarium Additives donated by SeaChem
(1) AccliMate unit donated by Reef Gently
Submersible 3700 LPH Water Pump dontated by Aquatic Life
A Premium Line of Aquarium Additives donated by Brightwell Aquatics
T5-High Output Bulbs donated by UV Lighting International
A variety of Fish food packages donated by San Francisco Bay Brand
(3) Swing Arm Hydrometers donated by Aquarium Systems, Inc.
(2) 500 gram tubs of MarineGro Pellet Foods donated by Red Sea Fish
A Premium Line of Aquarium Additives donated by Marc Weiss
There are still a handful of donations waiting to be delivered. I will continue to update the list as they trickle in!!:bleh:
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Hey fellow aquarists, if you are not up to anything this weekend feel free to come out and listen to two speakers and have a chance to win some cool prizes. If this sounds like something you would like to do check out the details below:
Our Annual Spring Seminar Is Approaching Very Quickly!
Saturday April 24, 2010
Please join us for this one of a kind event featuring two exciting speakers!! CMAS is pleased to welcome Mr. Mark Vera and Mr. Marc Levenson
CMAS Presents Mr. Mark Vera of Phyto 2
Mark Vera has been keeping marine aquariums since 1991 during which he has worked in many capacities of the aquarium industry. In addition he has worked on various personal and public research projects and spent two years breeding H. reidi and is currently serving as President of MOFIB, the Marine Ornamental Fish & Invertebrate Breeders Association. Being an active Divemaster, Mark travels extensively diving lakes, rivers, and oceans throughout the world and is a regular aquarium diver at the worlds aquarium the John G. Shedd Aquarium. Between travels Mark owns and operates a specialty aquarium installation and service company and contributes as staff on C
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Good news all. After playing around with some valves and drain lines I was able to get the reactor up to about 1.8 PSI with it running through a modified RO Canister air dryer, through the ozone generator, and out the relief valve and the O3 Reactor, all using the same Quiet one 4000 pump.
Thanks for the tips just took a lot of tweaking.
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So i have tested what was recommended and the same result with the reactor. I am still getting about 1 PSI inside. I removed the ozone unit, air dryer, and cehck valve so nothing but air & water is pumping into the reactor. I create back pressure on the manifold by restricting flow from the pump to the manifold no change. I can only think there is an air leak somewhere.
here is a crude sketch of my manifold to give you and idea of what it looks like. I have restricted the ballvalve after the pump to the return lines to create pressure this may not have been correct but thats what it looked like I needed to do.
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I will give a more complete answer when you have performed the test however one thing here that looks obvious to me is that you just don't have enough pressure feeding your reactor from water input. While your pump can produce the required flow it is not creating enough pressure. A very easy way to change this is to add a valve after the tee that feeds your reactor and before the output to your tank. By closing this valve you will create some pressure to push towards your reactor. You shouldn't loose too much flow to your tank, only 10-15% would be my best guess.
Oh, and disconnect the generator before performing the leak test. You just need some tubing on it and direct it back to the tank for the test.
Dan,
I have a quick connect fitting after the T from my manifold (which also has a shut off switch to the reactor) to the reactor so I can quickly take it off line and it is a 1/2" ball valve connector. On the reactors return output to the sump I have another 1/2" ball valve for control. If I am understanding this right I can just cut the flow going into the reactor to raise the pressure or even possibly reduce the output to put pressure in to the reactor itself? I will see what difference this makes with the PSI.
-Will
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Wow so many questions. I was not very specific I apologize. Any how lets start answering as many as I can:
What feed pump are you using?
quiet one 4000 (1000 gph) which feeds a manifold I tee off for all my needs that includes, return to DT, return to FRAG, O3 reactor and soon my CA Reactor. Calculated head loss and it should handle it okay.
What gph do you get with output valve completely open?
~100gph i woudl have to do some math cause it leaves and then goes into a TLF 150 reactor of carbon/gfo
What gph do you get at 1 psi?
running wide open so about 100 gph
What happens when you close the valve even more?
water drops in reactor and pressure will fluctuate as it drains fills inside the reactor
How about closing it 100% with the input still going and the air pump on full blast?
Have to test this
Can you take the air line and check valve off and just leave the fitting on, then close the output valve and run water and air full blast, this will cause the reactor to fill to the top with water and out air inlet and let you see if there are any leaks.....
Will have to test this. Couldn't this cause water to back pressure into the ozone unit?
What was your orp before you installed the reactor?
Not sure I think 280 - 300
What is it now?
It reads around 400-425 but I think my probe may need replaced
How are you controlling it?
Milwaukee ORP controller in the sump to monitor the level and shut it off when above 350
What size ozone generator?
100 M/g Read Sea set to only put in 5% at all times
How many hours a day does it run?
Minutes maybe
Water volume?
Total ~80 gallons
Do you notice a improvement in water clarity? Quality?
Yes I think it allowed more light into the tank fading some of the corals.
well I have some testing to perform later on. will update again after that.
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Bump^^^^
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So it has been a while on this thread but I figured now that I got a pressure rated air pump I have a pressure issues.
I can no get the pressure above 1 on the gauge
I run the luft pump through a check valve, into the air dryer (large red sea model), through the ozone unit, into another check valve, into the reactor. I can not have more than 5 ft of air tubing.
I have tried messing with the input out put levels but the pressure stays at 1.
I have also bled the gauge with the safety valve and it still registers at 1 psi.
Any ideas how ti get the PSI at 2 like in the video.
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I thought that we would offer the neighboring club a chance to come out and see Kevin Kohen from Live Aquaria speak with CMAS next Saturday, March 6th from 11 am to 2PM.
Location:
Old Mill High School
610 Patriot Lane
Millersville, MD 21108
Biography
Kevin Kohen earned his Bachelor of Science degree from Wright State University, and is an avid marine life photographer, lifelong aquarist and marine fish enthusiast. He was one of the early pioneers maintaining live corals in captivity back in the early 80’s. He began his professional career in the marine fish industry working in a retail fish store, and then moved on to manage the operations of one of the largest freshwater and marine fish wholesale and import/export businesses in the Midwest for over eight years. From there, he ventured on to launch the LiveAquaria.com web site, and designed and oversaw the installation of the Drs. Foster & Smith Aquaculture Coral & Marine Life Facility. He currently oversees the operations of the facility, and is responsible for the acquisition of the animals, as well as their husbandry.
This should be an excellent time to talk with Kevin about aquaculture, possible group buys and anything else you may wnat to know about the divers den and Dr Foster & Smith.
Thanks.
Will K.
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Nice! I didn't even glue that bottom drip plate on, looks like you did. Doubt it makes a difference either way. I don't see your pressure valve tube stem though, is it in there?
yes I glued the bottom plate to the base, the pressure valve has not been attached yet awaiting it to come in. Looking forward to building my kalk reactor next, just have to find a decent stir motor.
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Reactor Body
Output valve
Assembled Unit
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Finished my build a few days ago on the unit. I have a few things to modify/fix o nthe unit all together but over all I am very pleased with the outcome. Thank you very much for this thread and the insight you all provided.
The build was not as clean as I had expected but for my second DIY I am very happy with the results.
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Photos of the construction:
Top Drip plate
Routed Base
Constructed Base
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Excellent vid Boret. That really makes a clear picture of what we are trying to do with these reactors. I agree with Dan on the tubing into the sump from the carbon filter. You will probably get a fair amount of bubbles into the sump so I would make sure it goes into the appropriate section. Othe than that the reactor looks great.
Should be putting mine together in the next two weeks once the holidays have passed.
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Sailfin, Boret gave a very good overview but I will add a bit. If you used solid pvc you could regulate the flow and pressure by watching the pressure relief valve. If there is just a tiny amount of "mist" coming out this valve then you know the water level is at the right place inside the reactor. You can measure flow and use the gauge to determine pressure and flow without seeing inside. I helped Justin develop a reactor for his commercial greenhouse that was build with a piece of 14" diameter solid grey pvc. He has been posting on this thread, maybe he will throw a picture of it on here for you to see. Another thing to consider though is using 4.5" diameter clear acrylic for your project. This size tube is the exact same size as schedule 40/80 pvc so you can use off the shelf fittings to make the base and cap but still be able to see inside the reactor. If you wanted just enough of the 4.5" cast acrylic tube for this project shoot me an email and I could help you out with that.
Also, the "mist" coming from the relief valve should answer why the "air" carbon filter needs to be placed over the sump
Dan,
Yea the acrylic would be helpful. I had sent an email to you about getting a unit commercially but I like getting my hands dirty and increase my acrylic skills from time to time. Should i email you through your site or respond to an email you sent me?
As for the euro reactor I was on the site and they are pretty vague about the unit itself. there are instructions but no info on what it is constructed of. Does anyone know any where I can get the bio bale media from I don't know the rules of link posting here but I found some on ebay and MD but was wondering if there is a local place I can obtain it?
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Hi sailfintang,
Welcome to WAMAS!!
I picked up the Ozone Reactor from Dan this weekend. It is awesome!!! I want to publicly thank Dan for the amount of work and research he has put into this piece of equipment and all the help and advice he has so far given me. This is a much, much better piece of equipment and Ozone delivery mechanism than my original idea of transforming the Skimmer for that purpose.
We are working on a small leak but that should be resolved shortly (probably produce by my incompetence setting it up), and Dan has already thought of improvements in the design to make it bullet proof. We are at a testing stage and the next few months will be critical to fine tune the device. So far the reactor performed great, keeping at close to 3 psi inside the chamber until the small leak developed.
The reactor receives the water at the Top where it hits a perforated round acrylic plate that makes the water trickle down into the biobale. Also at the top there are 2 nipples, one to introduce Ozone and the other as a pressure relief valve. There is also a pressure gauge to keep track of PSI inside the reactor.
At the bottom, a 90 degree elbow, receives the water and through a valve goes out of the reactor, in my case into a Carbon reactor. The valve allows you to setup the appropriate back pressure and control the water level inside the chamber. The trick is to achieve the proper water flow and pressure. There are 3 things affecting this equilibrium:
1. Water coming in. The amount we are working with now is around 100 gph.
2. Ozone into the reactor. Working with a Luft pump rated at a max of 5 psi. Some pressure gets lost from the pump until it reaches the reactor.
3. Output valve at the bottom of the reactor into the carbon reactor. This is the main valve used to achieve the equilibrium.
I have two types of air dryers. The first one, the one that comes with the Red Seas Ozonizer is worthless for a pressure bias application of Ozone. It pretty much pops open as the air pressure increases, even at the lowest setting in the Luft air pump. I am using that one with active carbon, to filter the air/water (a few drops per second) coming from the relief valve.
I have a different dryer, a cylinder made of plastic, which screws at both ends. This one wasn't completely air tight and the pressure was expanding the plastic at the ends letting air come out before it even reached the ozonizer. I applied several layers of Teflon tape at the threaded ends and I have a semi tight air dryer now.
Nonetheless, a different design for the air dryer is necessary from the commercially available. BRS sells one that might work better.
I am using ozone resistant tubing all the way from the air pump to the reactor, and from the relief valve into the small carbon container. I wonder if rigid tubing all the way to the ozonizer might help maintain the air pressure. The water out of the reactor travels through neoprene tubing into the Carbon Reactor. I check with NextReef, the manufacturer of my MR1 Media Reactor to make sure all the materials were Ozone safe. Even the sponges are ozone safe, but the guys at NextReef send me a few more in different thicknesses and material to test out.
I also use an air check valve in between the ozonizer and the reactor to avoid water flowing back when the air pump is off.
One of the issues I see with a PVC chamber is the impossibility to see the amount of water inside the reactor. I have no idea how would you go about adjusting the water flow, back pressure, etc. without seeing the water level. The idea is to provide more contact surface and time to the water in the reactor with the supplied ozone, therefore the use of the biobale. Dan explained previously the advantages of the pressurized chamber as opposed to a non-pressurized one. If you go with PVC I am fairly certain that you won't be able to go the pressurize route.
I will add pictures of the setup shortly.
Hi Boret, thanks for the welcome and answers to my questions.
As for pressure wouldn't a sealed or screw capped PVC tube do the same thing as the bolted top of the reactor dan built?
As for adjusting the pressure in the reactor isn't that what the gauge is for you can monitor the pressure within the reactor using the gauge after you tweak the input/output of the water?
Kind of a bummer about the read sea air dryer not working with the luft pump. I have an old ro/di cartridge i could mod pretty easy. As for the relief valve is there a switch on the valve or does it just let pressure out into the air around it? If so we would need a carbon output on that to get rid of any o3.
I plan to add the bio bale and drip plates for the reactor i just have to find where to buy the bio bale locally if possible. I think the PVC can be pressurized and as for flow it can be calculated with some baic math after you determine how long it takes to fill 250ml from the output.
Pics of the setup would be great too.
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First off great thread i have been trying to come up with a simple design for a reactor and I think this will work just fine. I however plan to construct mine from PVC 4" tube. I have a few questions about the design and process. I have been reading up on Ozone and found the link to this set up for the MTC O3 Reactor set up and design.
I totally understand that the pre and post carbon filters are going to be required. I just need to know exactly why the flow setup from the MTC design shows both air and water returning to the sump? I though only the water from the reactor would be returning to the sump after passing through a carbon filter?
Dan,
As for your design is the water flow coming in from the top of the reactor and dripping to the bottom output? If this is the design is there some sort of valve on the pressure nozzle or post carbon filter for what you created in the lid to keep it from expelling water?
Finally would a small air dryer filled with carbon be significant for the water to pass through before retuning to the tank or should I make a larger PVC unit?
CMAS Spring Event extends invite to WAMAS
in Welcome to WAMAS: FAQ / FYI / Hobby News
Pacific East is taking pre-orders for the spring event! Check out the Pacific East vendor thread