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Highland Reefer

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Posts posted by Highland Reefer

  1. +1 for Kalk.

     

    Limewater (kalkwasser)

     

    What Your Grandmother Never Told You About Lime

    http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/index.htm

     

    The Self Purification of Limewater (Kalkwasser)

    http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/may2003/chem.htm

     

    The Degradation of Limewater (Kalkwasser) in Air

    http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-...ature/index.htm

     

    Magnesium and Strontium in Limewater

    http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/dec2003/chem.htm

     

    How to Select a Calcium and Alkalinity Supplementation Scheme

    http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm

  2. IMO, the safest way would be to use a float switch connected to a dosing pump. The dosing pump would be set to just a little more than the evaporation rate of your system. This way if the float sticks on, then just a little more than your evap. demand would be applied. The problem with this kind of dosing pump is that they can be expensive. :)

  3. I did a phosphate test with a Merck and the readings were .05ppm and the Salifert test showed 0 from the same water sample.

     

    Both kits have an error range of +or- 0.03 at the lower range, so they are both possibly within range. I would trust the Merck more.

    Once the phosphate levels are down below 0.03 microalgae growth is the best indicator. :biggrin:

  4. Which salt mix are you using? What are you using to test your pH with?

     

    If for water changes, you are using a high calcium/high alk. salt mix, then your levels may just stay where they are at.

  5. Depending on your phosphate kit, you may have levels just below 0.5 ppm. Many kits will read zero at that level.

     

    I would run GFO to get your phosphate levels down lower. When the microalgae starts do die off then you are there. You can adjust your GFO by increasing the amount you add to a reactor and/or replacing the GFO more often. :)

  6. Microalgae can become a problem for you if your phosphate levels rise above 0.03 ppm. Nitrates levels should be kept below 0.2 ppm for a tank with sps in it. These are the major factors in deciding how many fish you will want to add to a reef system. You should buy good quality phosphate and nitrate test kits for readings at low levels.

  7. A 5 gallon bucket full of sand will weigh approximately 60 - 65 lbs. It would depend on the thickness of the glass on the bottom of your tank. Placing a piece of flat plastic on the bottom larger than the bottom of the bucket will help disperse the weight over a larger area, than just the rim of the bucket bottom. You would not want the bucket to be tilted, such that all the weight is concentrated on a small area.

     

    I would guess that any aquarium that will hold a 5 gallon bucket will hold the weight. :biggrin:

  8. I don't think seagrasses would be a good choice for CO2 reduction. They require at least 4-6" inches of fine substrate (okay if you have a DSB), but are unpredictable. My Thalassia/Turtle grass (supposedly difficult to grow) is doing well, but both my Syringodium/Manatee grass and Halodule/Shoal grass have died off. The Syringodium did flower before disappearing, and I disturbed the roots of the Halodule, so maybe that's my fault.

     

    In other words they are finicky....I would guess that something easy like Caulerpa would do just as well at reducing C02, and would be much less of a pain :)

     

    -R

     

    Thanks for the input. I am no longer concerned about reducing CO2. Now that I have bought Tim's (ExtremeToothDecay) 125 gallon tank, I want to do something different with it. I was thinking about a macroalgae and seagrass theme. Maybe rocks with macro on one side, phasing into the seagrass on the other (maybe rocks in the middle). I am aware that I will need at least 6" of fine sand in the bottom. The seagrass will need good lighting. I have a 250 watt metal halide already. Probably will need to dose iron for the seagrass. Ideas & critiques would be greatly appreciated. ;)

     

    I will be plumbing this into my exisitng system.

  9. "Below is a list of all of the marine plant vendors taken from this thread. Where to get macroalgae and marine vascular plants. The links are listed in the order in which they appeared in that thread. Please refer to that thread for discussion and some vendor experiences.

     

    Florida Pets

    Nova Southeastern University Oceanographic Center

    Macro-algae.com

    Gulf Coast Ecosystems

    Indo-Paific Sea Farms

    Bill's Reef

    PremiumAquatics

    Connecticut Valley Biological Supply Co.

    MarinelifeThey ship in Europe and Switzerland in 48 hours with UPS.

    InlandAquatics

    Etropicals

    Marinedepotlive

    Marineflora

    Florida Aqua Farms Inc

    Seacrop

    Marinefauna-cebu

    LAreefs

    seaside-treasure

    Sea Life Florida

     

    Not sure if the Barrreport sells plants, but they were in there so I put them here.

    barrreport"

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=1049159

  10. I have been reading about Sea Grasses and have been contemplating installing a new aquarium into my existing system. From my understanding, sea grasses use quite a bit of CO2 and in some cases need to be supplemented with it. I would assume that sea grass may reduce CO2 levels and result in a higher pH. Does anyone have any experience with this?

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