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geofloors

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Posts posted by geofloors

    Montipora Eating Nudis

    in General Discussion

    Thanks George for the info. I need to setup a second quaranteen tank to sterilize the first. I have not subjected them to anything but iodine solutions so far. I am assuming you feel that copper sulphate solutions are not worth while. Correct? Too harsh?

     

    I have had some success with putting full concentration Reefdip directly on them and blowing them off. (seems to loosen their grip a bit. I have separated, but there are a few other plating caps in the tank grown over the rockwork that I cannot remove. Thinking I should just kill what is left with pipeted boiling water or something. Might speed up the process somewhat. Having problems finding them now, gusss just waiting for the next wave.

     

    constant  :wall:  When is this going to get fun again?

    46446[/snapback]

     

     

    How are you going to dose the copper sulfate? The whole tank? If not then why bother. Same with the reef dip. You are just delaying the inevitable. You will never rid your tank of these nudis unless you remove all food source for them. Even though you don't see them, if there has been any eggs that have hatched then your tank has baby nudis all over it searching for more montiporas to eat. Those montiporas that have grown on your rocks are going to be a problem. Somehow you need to remove them or kill them.

     

     

     

    George

    Montipora Eating Nudis

    in General Discussion

    You'll never get rid of them unless you remove ALL montiporas from the tank. There is no treatment that will kill the nudibranches and not kill the corals. Manual removal will get the larger nudibranches but there will be tiny nudis that are searching your rock work for more montiporas. There will also be tiny gelatin looking egg masses. From my experience the nudibranches will go from egg to egg laying adult in about 2 weeks. One adult can lay thousands of eggs that will hatch out in about 10 days. I'm sure you can now imagine why manual removal is a waste of time. Don't count on any fish to do the work for you either.

     

    Only way to get rid of them... You will need 4 quarantine tanks with aged water. This can be done with 2 tanks that you sterilize after the process.

     

    1) Remove each montipora from main tank and inspect and remove and nudis and egg masses you see. Use a magnifying glass because fresh hatched nudis are tiny.

     

    2) After 8 days remove each montipora and re-inspect and remove any nudis and egg masses you see. There should be very few if stage one was a success.

     

    3) After 8 days remove and re-inspect each montipora. If you still have nudis or egg masses got back to step 2

     

    4) If montiporas are clean of nudis and egg masses place in tank for a full 14 days. If at the end of 14 days the montiporas are clean then they will be safe to add back to your main tank. If montiporas show any signs of nudis or eggs then go back to stage 2. You really need to inspect each piece closer this time. Any nudis left in main tank would have starved by now and no reproduction should have occured. If any traces of montipora was left in the tank then there is an excellent chance that the nudis are still alive and continued quarantine is needed.

     

    Forget everything else, by the time any of the other methods are used the nudis will be too established and your montiporas will be gone in 2 weeks. If you get a major egg hatch out these nudis can consume a large cap in a few nights. Don't waste time if you value you hard to get montiporas.

     

    Sometimes it's easier to throw away the common stuff and concentrate on the hard to find montiporas (superman, rainbow, sunset, confusa, etc) It's a fact that the nudis will always go after plating montis first because they eat the undersides first. Usually by the time you know yu have them they are alreay in plague proportions.

     

     

    George

    blue palm coral

    in General Discussion

    That is a type of Tunicate. Almost impossible to keep alive long term. I've seen many people have them for a month or two before it starved to death.

     

    Roozens gets these from time to time. I have also read many negatives things about Aquacon.

     

     

    George

    Percula Clowns and Anenomes

    in General Discussion

    I have a pair of ture perculas for about 9 years now and they have never touched an anemone. I have bought all the different types but they liked green stripe mushrooms as their host. Eventually they left the mushrooms and went to a frogspawn. They've been in that for the past 6-7 years.

     

     

    George

    More flow. How?

    in General Discussion

    Switched the Eheim with a QuietOne 6000 - 1500 GPH.

    Put the Eheim on a closed loop, with the output split into

    two streams. Had to cut out a few larger teeth in the

    overflow but now i gots FLOW!

    The Quite One pump might be more pressure/flow then the SCWD can handle long term. 1200 at 0' is about max. from what I've been reading.

     

    I would go with a seaswirl on a closed loop with a corner tank.

     

     

    George

    What fish do you have?

    in General Discussion

    120g:

     

    purple tang, desjardenii tang, sunrise pseudochromis, pair of fire clowns, pair of black citron gobies, pair of yellow tail damsels, pink damsel, big eyed soldierfish,spotted mandarin, six lines wrasse

     

    120g:

     

    hippo tang, pair of SI percula clownfish, six lined wrasse, green mandarin, brazillian gramma, sunrise psuedochromis,pair of bartlett anthias, pair of swallowtail angels, yellow stripe neon goby

     

    75g:

     

    yellow tang, yellow tail damsel, bi-color angel, female bellus angel, six line wrasse

     

    20g:  maroon clownfish

     

    30g breeder:

     

    pair of blackfoot clownfish, yellow tang, convict tang, sixline wrasse

     

    40g:  

     

    scopas tang, blue damsel, three stripe damsel, 2 baby bangaii cardinals

     

    40g:

     

    yellow tang, blue velvet damsel

     

    40 breeder:

     

    orange back fairy wrasse, blue scale fairy wrasse, filament fairy wrasse, yellow fin fairy wrasse

     

    40 stretched hex:

     

    purple tang, pair of black ocellaris clownfish, pacific candy basslet, blue assessor, pair of jansii pipefish, trio of Figi lyretail anthias, mystery wrasse.

     

    100g stocktank:  Kuda seahorse, pair of bangaii cardinals

     

     

    George

    Purple Monstor growth sequence

    in General Discussion

    With a Neilsen reactor you need tons of evaoration to keep up. A heavily stocked sps system (like mine) uses a ton more calcium and carbonates then the Neilsen can supply. With a Calcium reactor you can adjust it's output to your tanks needs. However, in my case, I evaporate 10 gallons a day from this tank. My calcium reactor bubbles 180 bubbles of CO2 per minute to keep up with the demand. In turn, there is alot of CO2 making it's way back into the tank which causes a lower pH (7.9-8.0 max). I counteract that with the Neilsen reactor. I don't care about the minerals it adds back to the tank because it so minimal it means nothing. I just use it for it's pH increase. I don't use vinegar with my Neilsen becasue I want to high pH of the kalkwasser.

     

     

    George

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