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Jenny

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Posts posted by Jenny

  1. I researched them a while back and they should be reefsafe. Should always being the operative word.

     

    They don't have that great of survival rate however, bad shippers, easily intimidated, hard to get eating, etc. But I guess no different than other butterflies.

     

    Also there are several species of butterflies that look like this one that aren't reef safe. Make sure you are buying by species name not just common name.

     

    Let us know how it goes if you get one.

  2. I just wanted to say WELCOME to WAMAS!

     

    And I think almost everyone will agree that a canister filter on a reef or marine fishes tank won't give you that much benefit especially next to a protein skimmer.

  3. Like Phisigs said if you didn't QT all the fish that are in the main tank one of them was probably carrying it.

     

    stevil is right too though that he'll outgrow your 55 and if you aren't planning on upgrading in the relatively near future you might as well get rid of him now.

     

    But since he was in your main tank you'll have to QT everybody to be safe.

     

    I'd take out all the fish you have in your tank and QT them all. Bring salinity down to 1.0009, then keep them for 6 weeks at 1.009, bring salinity back up over a 2 week period to what your main tank is.

    This way you'll have a clean main tank. So if you QT all incoming specimens you should be safe.

     

    How many fish do you have? If you have several you'll probably need a bigger tank. I bet someone has one you can borrow for awhile.

     

    Also you should look into getting Marine Fishes by Scott Michael. It helped me tremendously when I first started to keep from buying fishes that I wasn't equiped to house or that would outgrow the tank.

  4. Make the phyto in 2 liter bottles. You can use the 20 to breed copepods. You will more successful culturing copepods rather than just feeding phyto to your main tank b/c lots of invertebrates use the phyto. This way you can make sure your mandarin has a steady supply. I like the tigger pods myself (b/c they are visible to the human eye) they are about $20/bottle which is a ripoff but you get a clean culture that way.

     

    see here

  5. Yeah yeah.. what they all said. :biggrin:

     

    Welcome to the addiction hobby!

     

    haha its funny cause its true!

     

    Welcome! See you Saturday!

    In the meantime post some pictures of your setup and tell us what all kinds of equipment/livestock you have/are planning.

  6. The most basic setup you need a few 2 liters (some people use 2.5gallon tanks or 5gallon tanks). Some airline hose and an airpump. And a culture starter - you can use Dt's but it doesn't do as well as if you use a culture from Florida Aqur Farms. The phyto will mature in 7-10days make sure you harvest it or it'll crash.

     

    See link

     

    HTH

  7. I'm not putting a shoal of clowns in my 55 :cry: . I think I'll just wait for some one to post a "mated pair" of clowns for sale... this seems too expensive.

     

    Jason,

     

    If you get the clowns young like a year or so you have excellent odds of them pairing. Like hbh said at that stage they are all males. One of the two will become dominant and become female. So there is your pair.

     

    I think what Troll is trying to say is at that if you get clowns old enough to actually breed they will go through a more selective process to choose a mate. If you get them young though you have better odds they'll pair but you have to have patience as it'll take a while till they start laying eggs.

     

    You don't need an anemone. As you know they'll host lots of different unusual things.

     

    HTH

  8. Eric has a good point - eventually it'll be pink, unless you are a coraline hater and scrape all that's visible. I've had one painted black, but my cube just has a black fiberboard behind it now, as does my 2.5.

     

    Yeah that's me! No background and scrape the coralline that the urchins miss. Gives the tank a lot more depth than what blue or black will give you IMO

  9. hbh,

     

    Everything has the possibility of caring unwanted goodies into your tank. And its really a lot easier and less stress if you take preventative measures rather than reactionary. Fresh water dips (dips 30 minutes not just a rinse) can kill some of these things but not all. Thats why its good to use the iodine type solutions, they kill more.

     

    See here for info on red bugs link

     

    QT all fish minimum 6 weeks. No matter if they show signs of illness or not.

     

    As far as coral goes I don't QT. I should but I don't have correct lights on my QT to keep the corals happy and healthy for 6 weeks. So I do preventative dips and inspect for hitchhikers and hope for the best. Same goes for noncoral inverts with light requirements.

     

    For inverts that don't have heavy light requirements and live rock they get the QT. Snails have been reported to carry parasites. I'm not sure how often this happens. But I figure better safe than sorry ya know?

  10. We have a purely h20 6 stage that removes chlorine and chloramine. We really like it. It comes with a tds which can read tds in and out. It also comes with a pressure gauge which allows you to set it at the most efficient rate.

     

    Just to add to what Jager is saying. According to the extensive discussions on reef central about ro/di... the 100gpd ro aren't really ro at all. They are microfilters which is why they don't reject as many disolved solids.

    75gpd is optimal apparently which is why many companies making ro/di specifically for aquarium use are no longer offering 100gpd or are phasing them out.

     

    I also understand that you could theoretically get a cheaper unit that doesn't have as good of filters and then upgrade them to better ones later. You would have to upgrade faster b/c the cheaper filters are reported to not last as long. Also if you get the cheaper one there is more likelyhood that the whole things leaks more.

     

    Having a 5 or 10 micron filter then the 1 micro will overall save the life of your filters. The change rates are only recommendations. Its not like with bulbs when you really should only keep them for a year otherwise they are doing more harm than good.

     

    I think having a pressure gauge is also a must have. The RO will make water most efficiently between 50-60 (at least ours will). So you will have less waste if you keep it in that range. Plus you'll have water faster.

     

    I agree a tds meter built in is totally worth the money.

     

    Jenny

  11. Thanks everybody!

     

     

    Very nice design and work. A word of caution, though, you should probably turn off the metal hallides and let them cool before lifting the hood. The shock and vibration of moving them while hot might shorten their lives or cause a bulb failure, outright. The fluourescents should be less finicky.

     

    fab

     

    Thanks for the tip I didn't know that. I'll be sure to shut them off and let em cool from now on.

     

    Jenny

  12. Thanks everybody!

     

    Lookin' good! One question, do you have fans mounted on top for the MHs?

     

    The lights aren't retrofit so they come with 4 small fans in the housing. But I've also ordered some of the scythe cooling fans for pcs. They are supposed to be super quiet so we'll see.

  13. Thanks all! When I picked it up I couldn't believe it. I asked the guy if he would do some other stands and canopys for me. He said he'd be glad to and would do it for the cost of materials. How great is that?!!??

  14. Hi All!

     

    For Christmas my brother got us a new canopy for the reef. Not just any new canopy. He designed it himself and his buddy built it for us. It is handmade from red oak.

    I couldn't believe it! I told him most people I talk to their family's are far from supportive. But he actually took the time to design this from just the little comments I made about how hard it is to get into the tank since the mh are so hot. That is just too great.

    Anyway I really like it and wanted to show it off. We have the coralife aquapro 72" mh. The hanging brakets attach to the top of the hood. It has vents on the top so the lights can breath. The lights are approximately 5 inches from the top. The are about 8" from the water. The entire top lifts up as you can see. That way I can just get on the step ladder and not have to worry about burning my hands or arms from touching the halides but still reach anywhere in the tank.

     

    I hope you like it.

    http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=si&img=1329

    http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=si&img=1330

    http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=si&img=1331

    http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=si&img=1332

    http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=si&img=1333

     

    Ok not sure why I can't post these images. It keeps saying dynamic pages in the tags not allowed. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

  15. Dandy do you really? I wonder if HeartGuard would work...

     

    hbh. Quarantine for minimum of 6 weeks. Longer if they show any signs of illness.

     

    Dell2go. For dips you mix new water. Check pH, temp, salinity(if you are doing freshwater obviously 0.000). Then add the medication following the dosing instructions on the bottle. Then just put the fish in and set a timer.

    For Fish:

    dewormers: praziquantel, fenbendazole (panacur), piperazine (in that order of preference)

    give orally

    external parasites: Formalin, copper - cupramine, methylene blue (good to use with freshwater dips).

    30-60 minute dip

    antibiotics: Nitrofurans, kanamycn, minocycline (maracyn-2), neomycin

    60 minute dip if they are not eating otherwise give orally

     

    We also do 30 minute freshwater dips for clams and zoas.

     

    HTH

    Jenny

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